Replacing Frame Rivets

[Frankenchevy]

I've decided to remove a few pieces from the frame for sanding and painting. I definitely want to do the shackle mounts due to the gap between them and the frame. I imagine there being oxidation back there.

what do you guys recommend as a replacement fastener? I don't want to rivet it again. I'd like to use bolts. I'm leaning towards grade 8 - 7/16". this is what offroad design does with their shackle mount flip. I read an article where ck5.com detail the installation of that kit and used 45 lb-ft torque ( https://ck5.com/forums/resources/ord-4-shackle-flip.48/ ). that doesn't seem real high. I plan on starting with that torque number with some loctite.

I realize that bolts have the potential to back out and rivets don't, so I will put everything nut side out so I can visually inspect that they haven't backed out.

any other ideas out there?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Grade 8 bolts, flat washers on both sides and a lock washer on each bolt. Personally I would use locktite on most bolts that bolt main components to the frame like suspension components and what not. And just use the biggest bolt you can in each bolt hole, and as for the torque spec 4-5 uga duggas with a good impact gun, or a good crank on about a foot long breaker bar. That hardware will be plenty strong enough and with lockwashers and locktite you most likely wont have to worry about them backing off.

 

[CSFJ]

There was a lot of discussion about this a few years ago. I'll see if I can find the threads when I get home from work this afternoon.

 

[Frankenchevy]

And just use the biggest bolt you can in each bolt hole

on the ORD kit, you have to drill the holes slightly to accept 7/16" in the factory shackle mount location. that's fine there due to the amount of metal around the hole. I'll be as conservative as possible with bolt sizing on the shock mounts. the holes in the shock mount itself don't look like they'd like a bunch of reaming due to the hole's proximity to the edge of the shock perch itself.

why didn't GM drill a hole in areas like the bottom of the shackle mount and other similarly poor draining areas? it's shaped like a shallow saucer and holds water... there are a few places on the frame and crossmember where it'd seem to benefit from a 1/4" weep hole.

 

[Frankenchevy]

There was a lot of discussion about this a few years ago. I'll see if I can find the threads when I get home from work this afternoon.

I'd appreciate the hell out of that, thanks!

 

[CSFJ]

No problem. It was a question I think I had asked myself, back before my project took the path that it did.

 

[ajd89]

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/bent-frame.12851/page-3 ...this thread had some good stuff dont know if it the one csfj is talking about. I remember i reading to use a reamer to ream holes out to 7/16 not use 3/8 bolts so they are tight lol read that after i had bought 3/8 bolts

 

[CSFJ]

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/bent-frame.12851/page-3 ...this thread had some good stuff dont know if it the one csfj is talking about. I remember i reading to use a reamer to ream holes out to 7/16 not use 3/8 bolts so they are tight

Yep. That was the one I was thinking of.

 

[Frankenchevy]

http://www.gmsquarebody.com/threads/bent-frame.12851/page-3 ...this thread had some good stuff dont know if it the one csfj is talking about. I remember i reading to use a reamer to ream holes out to 7/16 not use 3/8 bolts so they are tight lol read that after i had bought 3/8 bolts

awesome thanks!

 

[Frankenchevy]

so I read the thread. I was thinking...instead of straight reaming the holes to accept 7/16 grade 8 bolts, what about tacking the brackets to the frame for perfect hole alignment then tapping the holes with threads so there is positive contact between the frame and bolt?

 

[Dougnsalem]

so I read the thread. I was thinking...instead of straight reaming the holes to accept 7/16 grade 8 bolts, what about tacking the brackets to the frame for perfect hole alignment then tapping the holes with threads so there is positive contact between the frame and bolt?

You'd be killing yourself with unnecessary labor. Even on semi's, we just use the hardened grade 8 bolts, washers and locking nuts (don't even use lock washers). Make sure the lock nuts are actually grade 8.

 

[Frankenchevy]

You'd be killing yourself with unnecessary labor. Even on semi's, we just use the hardened grade 8 bolts, washers and locking nuts (don't even use lock washers). Make sure the lock nuts are actually grade 8.

word. I was wondering about the semi frames I've seen. they have bolts all over the place.

 

[Dougnsalem]

word. I was wondering about the semi frames I've seen. they have bolts all over the place.

Yeah, and honestly, if a bolts stretches or whatever, and becomes loose; its really easy to spot. It'll end up with rust around the nut. Easy to see any with a quick glance up and down the inside frame, so I put the bolt heads to the outside (for better looks).

Just an idea here. Everyone has their way of doing things. Mine is no better than others....

 

[ajd89]

Yeah, and honestly, if a bolts stretches or whatever, and becomes loose; its really easy to spot. It'll end up with rust around the nut. Easy to spot any with a quick glance up and down the frame, so I put the bolt heads to the outside (for better looks).

Just an idea here. Everyone has their way of doing things. Mine is no better than others....

In Michigan the bolts just rust together!

 

[Honky Kong jr]

You'd be killing yourself with unnecessary labor. Even on semi's, we just use the hardened grade 8 bolts, washers and locking nuts (don't even use lock washers). Make sure the lock nuts are actually grade 8.

And not nylocks, use big boy lock nuts. It’s your truck not your kids Radio Flyer.