Remove front propeller shaft in order to drop starter?

[Mark80K15]

Hi all, need some mechanical advice. I have a 1980 K15 350 manual trans. I have unbolted the starter and disconnected the wiring. I was hoping the front propeller shaft wouldn't be in the way to pull the starter out, but I can't seem to move the starter down past the shaft. I also have headers... don't know if there is room if factory exhaust manifolds are installed.

So do I need to drop the shaft? I expect the answer is yes, so I already removed the bolts holding the u-joint straps to the front differential yoke. I can move the shaft back a little to disengage the u-joint from the yoke, but I can't move it back far enough to actually drop the shaft. Should I be able to move it back further? Or do I need to unbolt from the transfer case as well? Thanks for any advice.

 

[Goldie Driver]

Hi all, need some mechanical advice. I have a 1980 K15 350 manual trans. I have unbolted the starter and disconnected the wiring. I was hoping the front propeller shaft wouldn't be in the way to pull the starter out, but I can't seem to move the starter down past the shaft. I also have headers... don't know if there is room if factory exhaust manifolds are installed.

So do I need to drop the shaft? I expect the answer is yes, so I already removed the bolts holding the u-joint straps to the front differential yoke. I can move the shaft back a little to disengage the u-joint from the yoke, but I can't move it back far enough to actually drop the shaft. Should I be able to move it back further? Or do I need to unbolt from the transfer case as well? Thanks for any advice.

I sure do not recall an issue on the 77 I had that was stock height, but ... it had the factory exhaust.

As far as the driveshaft, I wonder if you could jack the front end up a bit, set it on the frame on jackstands, and then let the suspension droop to get the room you need ?

*May* be less work than unbolting it from the transfer case , or maybe not.

 

[Mark80K15]

Thanks for the advice Goldie Driver. Um, I should've put more effort into removing the starter and less into posting this thread. I was trying to remove the starter by dropping down between the driveshaft and the oil pan. Wouldn't fit. After writing this post I tried again and this time it dawned on me to drop down on the passenger side of the driveshaft! It worked, duh, sorry to waste everyone's time.

 

[QBuff02]

Thanks for the advice Goldie Driver. Um, I should've put more effort into removing the starter and less into posting this thread. I was trying to remove the starter by dropping down between the driveshaft and the oil pan. Wouldn't fit. After writing this post I tried again and this time it dawned on me to drop down on the passenger side of the driveshaft! It worked, duh, sorry to waste everyone's time.

There are very experienced mechanics that have had freshman moments from time to time, so don't sweat it. The best ones are the ones that admit to their "ah, ****" stuff.

 

[82sbshortbed]

This had me confused but, I'm glad you got it out.

 

[Raider L]

I had the same problem. That's what led me to put on a "mini-starter" that solved all the space problems I was having. The header tube was so close to the factory starter it was heating the starter housing up so much it killed the new starter. And that was even after putting a heat shield on the starter. The header tube wore right through it and still killed the starter. That's what I call close! @Mark80K15, a mini-starter may solve your problem as well even though you were able to get the starter out, check the distance between the drive shaft and the header tube and the starter housing and I'll bet a mini would still give you even more space. Now the body of the starter housing is inches away from the header tube. I still have a heat shield over the solenoid though. Better safe than sorry.