Rebuilding a 5.7 350

[Bextreme04]

Ok it would be good to measure that. Are those tools just at any automotive store? And have you seen a good video that explains how to do those measurements? Also what is the diameter of the journal?

Just youtube any engine build thread on setting up bearing clearances. The proper way is to use a dial bore gauge and measure the diameter of the bearing with the cap torqued down without the crank installed. Then you measure the actual size of the crank main. Then you subtract the crank size from the bore size and hope it is 0.025-0.035". If it isn't, then you need different bearings.

Here's a decent video from summit

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Same procedure applies for rod bearings

 

[jfrancom101]

Ok, I don't have an actual gauge yet but I did try plastiguage and I tested twice and got 0.0015. I think that someone said that that isn't enough? Also I included a picture of one of the bearing I had put on. I cleaned the surface and put assembly lube on it but it looks scratched to me. I got the crank at auto zone so they probably warranty it. Do I need to swap out the entire crank?
Also quick question, what is the best way to clean up the pastiguage? it got pretty stuck to one of the bearnings

 

[Bextreme04]

Ok, I don't have an actual gauge yet but I did try plastiguage and I tested twice and got 0.0015. I think that someone said that that isn't enough? Also I included a picture of one of the bearing I had put on. I cleaned the surface and put assembly lube on it but it looks scratched to me. I got the crank at auto zone so they probably warranty it. Do I need to swap out the entire crank?
Also quick question, what is the best way to clean up the pastiguage? it got pretty stuck to one of the bearnings

No picture came through.

0.0015 is way too tight. That's about half the clearance you need. You want to be in the 0.0025" area for main bearing clearance and ~0.0021" for rod bearings. I'd err on the side of looser than tighter. The tighter the clearance the hotter the oil is going to run.

 

[jfrancom101]

No picture came through.

0.0015 is way too tight. That's about half the clearance you need. You want to be in the 0.0025" area for main bearing clearance and ~0.0021" for rod bearings. I'd err on the side of looser than tighter. The tighter the clearance the hotter the oil is going to run.

Yeah that makes sense. It is for the rod bearings, I didn't check the main bearings but they seem to move freely like they should. Should I try the same test with some of the original bearings that I got in the kit and check the clearance there?(I got bearings in a rebuild kit(Original size) and some that came with the rebuilt crankshaft (the ones with 0.0015 clearance and they are resized larger I believe))

And sorry here is the picture here

 

[1973c10]

What is you crank turned to on the main journals and the rod journals .10, .20 and .30 under
what dose it say on the back of your bearings

 

[Bextreme04]

Yeah that makes sense. It is for the rod bearings, I didn't check the main bearings but they seem to move freely like they should. Should I try the same test with some of the original bearings that I got in the kit and check the clearance there?(I got bearings in a rebuild kit(Original size) and some that came with the rebuilt crankshaft (the ones with 0.0015 clearance and they are resized larger I believe))

And sorry here is the picture here

Make sure everything is stupid clean before assembly. Brake cleaner works well to remove the plastigage. It should just wipe right off if you spray it with some. The crank should be stamped with how far over it was turned and the bearings should also be that way.

 

[Grumpy]

You never mentioned that you verified the piston ring end gap.

This is absolutely critical!

If you do not have the proper tool for setting the rings down squarely in the bore, a double female coupler (plastic) from a hardware store would give you a ballpark view. Get one that has a hex in the middle of it so that is the part that sits up on the deck. This will seat the ring down about 1 to 1 1/16" down in the bore.
Failing to verify your piston end gap will result in a scored piston bore if too tight and then rings might also break.
Verify the correct end-gap for your particular pistons from the manufacturer's info sheet.

 

[jfrancom101]

What is you crank turned to on the main journals and the rod journals .10, .20 and .30 under
what dose it say on the back of your bearings

I think .20. I couldn't find on the crank but there are several markings. do any of those look like the mean something?

 

[80BrownK10]

Those could be .020 under bearings but I thought you said it was a standard crank? Look on the first counter balance weight of the crank to the front of the engine. It will look like this if either main or rods is cut.

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This crank had been cut .010 on both the mains and the rods.