Rear blocks / zero rate advice?

[JJFz6r]

Hello everyone, I am just getting familiarized with my square body and I know some of these questions were answered in diverse other posts so sorry if you guys have to repeat yourselves but this is to bring it all together. My truck is currently equipped with a 4 inch lift, springs in the front and blocks in the rear. Now I was looking at adding an extra inch for tire clearance since the guy before me had felt it bump the fender with the 35's that are on it right now. So I was looking into an EZ inch/zero rate and was wondering what other components need to be purchased separably with them such as longer Ubolts and heard of some people talk about shims? And I just got a new longer driveshaft built, would the moving of the axle front or back 1 inch with the 1 inch lift require some modifications there? Last but not least some people believe you should never put blocks up front or double blocks in the rear, now would these be exempt from that since they are like an add a leaf that don't change the rate? Or should I ditch the rear blocks and put these shackle flips (http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=125), and what would be the requirement for the shackle flip as in drive shaft same length as with the blocks and stock springs ok? Again thanks guys for your time

 

[bigcountryguy19]

I wouldnt recommend putting the zero rates on the back if you already have blocks, thats just my opinion, i always heard its a big no no to stack blocks, and i know they dont call it a block but it kinda is, only differance is it attaches to your leaf spring pack. Shackle lift sounds like the way to go, although it might make it too high, hopefully someone else chimes in with more experiance with the shackle flip, If its the front tires that are rubbing i would go with the zero rate, my truck has same problem just with the front tires.

 

[HotRodPC]

Even with 1 more inch, if you get into some real wheeling, that's not going to be enough. 6in for 35x12's would be preferred but not an absolute have to. Hate to make the suggestions, but how about a 2in body lift? I'd never plan that to get lift, but now that it's done the tires are purchased, it it an after thought alternative. And I would never do over a 2in body lift.

Have you got any more pics of your truck?

 

[HotRodPC]

Ok, found some pics in your album. Sharp truck !!!

Really, that doesn't look so bad. Where are you bumping the body at?

 

[crazy4offroad]

Take the blocks out and do a shackle flip. Then you can run a Zero Rate and locate the axle where you need it, as well as eliminate any axle wrap that the 4" blocks cause.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

I would go to a 6" lift , the shackle flip is a great thing as well or a small body lift. If you are trying to save money on the deal or just dont want to be over 5 inches of lift a 1 inch body lift would be the cheap way ,(bolts and a 1" spacer) , for the 0 rate you would need four 1 inch blocks , four longer center pins and possibly a set of u-bolts for the front and rear. If you do the shackle flip you will need the flip kit and still all the 0 rate stuff. I have added the 0 rate blocks all the way around to several of my square's and beat them very hard off road , (some with blocks in the back and some with out and have had not one single problem ever) so I myself would not be opposed to that set up either. I my self would just go for a nice ,new 6 inch springs up front and new spring or shackle flip the rear and you are on your way.

Dont be scared of 0 rate blocks front , rear , or stacked , lots of my buddies around here run them (including me) and we are all hard wheeler's in the lake bed mud and the trails with 0 problems.

 

[JJFz6r]

Take the blocks out and do a shackle flip. Then you can run a Zero Rate and locate the axle where you need it, as well as eliminate any axle wrap that the 4" blocks cause.

Thats exactly what I was thinking of doing, il put zero rates all around and exchange my blocks in the rear for the shackle flip. The 6 inch lift would be nice but is $$$ taken away for other stuff to do on the truck and its not going to do some extreme mudding just small trails. Ive never been a fan of body lift so in my head it would be a last choice. Anyone know if this setup would create the same angle as my blocks are for the driveshaft since I had just gotten one built for the difference with the blocks? And for the shakle (http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=125) would it be the basic kit or 4.5 inches?

 

[crazy4offroad]

Shackle flip actually angles the pinion up a little so you will have to verify the distance didn't shorten a little.

 

[JJFz6r]

If I understand right tho the zero rates could fix this problem by adjusting the axle position? So as long as I install both I should be good?

 

[HotRodPC]

If I understand right tho the zero rates could fix this problem by adjusting the axle position? So as long as I install both I should be good?

Pinion being turned up a little shouldn't be a problem. If anything, will make your driveshaft angle better compensated for the lift.

 

[JJFz6r]

Would you guys recommend this kit? (http://diy4x.com/cart/index.php?route=product/product&path=24&product_id=125) or the ORD kit? And where do you guys recommend getting U blots to compensate for the zero rates, mine are too long because of the blocks?

 

[bucket]

I like the ORD setup better, I feel the stock shackle design is stronger. I go to a local spring shop and have u-bolts made while I wait.

 

[hirschdalechevy]

Technically in a perfect world your pinion angle should on be the same angle as your t-case with a u-joint at both end style driveshaft , (a c/v at one end drivshaft is different) , any way I always drop the t-case a hair , then put my parts on , then run it up and down the hwy. at different speeds to see if there is any vibrations , if not good to go , if so I use 2 degree shims , ( or what ever I think I need) in the rear to fix the problem. It's kind of trial and error if you want to make your truck baby butt smooth at speed.

Put your parts on , rip it down the hwy. and you can always adjust things from there.

 

[GreaseDog]

I like the DIY4X version better, easier to tune the shackle length and angle. In my opinion a better quality part, sold by someone who actually makes it, rather than being sold by someone who outsources to the cheapest bidder.

 

[GreaseDog]

You also shouldn't have any issues with a zero rate and a block.