Rear axle seal questions.

[Kevin Foust]

Did some searching and really didn't see an answer to this so I figured I'd ask as I'm sure some have gone through this. Both hub seals are leaking and it's a 1978 K30 14 bolt full floater with a 10 1/2" ring gear. spindle hub DOES have some grooving. When I regeared it 10 years ago I moved the new seal some from where the other was to get a true surface. I guess it too has now wore one is as it's starting to fling oil again. I have not tore it apart yet but want to gather parts. Is it best to go with the new style 2 piece seals? SKF 28635 part number that I have been told? My main question is should I install a Speedi sleeve on the surface as well or is it not needed with these seals? Is it better to just go with Speedi sleeve and original style seal? Any part # for the speedi sleeve? I had 99282 but local store says their list says it's not correct. This is on a show truck that is driven quite a bit so I don't want any leaks. Thanks for any input.

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[JD Miller]

I always polish seal contact areas even with a worn grove, with 400 grit wet or dry sand paper, make sure the grove area gets good attention so its smooth and wont tear up the new seal, maybe go to 600 grit too. I Never use speedi sleeve. Smear some clean grease on the surface and on the seal lip to lube the contact areas, Install new double lip seal or new what ever the seal is, and Ive never have had leaks

 

[fast 99]

2081 national may fit.

Seal can't be inspected during install. That's a problem with a speedy sleeve. It's more likely the outer double lip can fold back. I have never used a sleeve in that area. As suggested above polish the surface as best as possible and go with that. Also be very careful not to ding or damage seal during installation and use grease on the inside to hold the seal spring.

 

[Kevin Foust]

I may try the 2 piece seal first on one side and see how that goes. Maybe the Yukon seals were just low quality. Truck has 33,000 miles since it was all put in. Started weeping just before 30,000. It may be a case of low quality stuff but finding good quality is pretty hard with name buyouts and cutting corner companies.

 

[Old Guy Bill]

The seal areas on mine cleaned up good with emory cloth.
I used the $$ pricey double lip seals from ORD.
Time will tell…

 

[Kevin Foust]

When I get to that point, I'll see how the 2 piece seal fits on the spindle. They are supposed to lock on the spindle and the hub side is pressed in which stays put as well. The seals are designed to move inside each other. From what I've read, this is what the factory has gone to on the newer 14 bolts.

 

[fast 99]

During disassembly for a leaky axle seal, first check for a loose bearing. Any looseness will decrease the ability to seal.

If you're referring to an oil bath seal, be sure the hub is seated. Seals press on with quite a bit of resistance. Lubrication is a friend.

 

[Kevin Foust]

This is the type of seal I'm referring to.

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Upgraded 14 bolt hub seals.

If you have constantly leaking hub seals or a pitted/damaged seal surface, these hub seals are your answer. This is a two part seal: the inner "ring" slides over the seal surface on the spindle and seals it, no moving parts against the spindle. The seal surface is integrated as part of the seal, so it doesn't matter what shape your spindle is in. What it all comes down to is these seals WORK, and they seal MUCH better than the factory seal did!

For 10-1/2" ring gear, full floating 14 bolt"