Quality replacement steering box

Disclaimer: Links on this page pointing to Amazon, eBay and other sites may include affiliate code. If you click them and make a purchase, we may earn a small commission.

Bloodhound1981

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Posts
205
Reaction score
459
Location
MA
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C-10
Engine Size
5.7
This will be the very next upgrade for my burb.
Just can't decide whether to get the one with a rag joint or the universal joint on the steering gear side. Any thoughts on this?
I went with the u-joint, eliminating the rag joint is the biggest part of this upgrade.
 

R Carnella

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Posts
376
Reaction score
825
Location
Long island
First Name
Rich
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
Suburban V2500
Engine Size
5.3
Did you notice any more vibration coming up from the column without the dampening from the rag joint. Also did the universal joint fit the steering box properly? I've seen where some have had to cut the pin from the steering gear shaft...
I went with the u-joint, eliminating the rag joint is the biggest part of this upgrade.
 

rpcraft

Full Access Member
Joined
May 31, 2016
Posts
1,333
Reaction score
512
Location
Texas
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1985
Truck Model
Jimmy
Engine Size
LS 6.0 364 CID
I’ve gone through rest of my 1975 K25 front end, and now it’s time to get some of the play out of the steering box. There seems to be multiple alternatives, and I want to get it right the first time.

- buy a kit and rebuild mine (about $40 for the kit). However, I don’t have any knowledge of how to do the job. My concern is that I will not understand how to determine what is worn or needs adjustment, and I’ll end up with a box that is marginally better than it is now.

- buy a new box from Rock Auto (about $330-350). They sell Cardone, Lares and BBB, but I don’t know much about the quality.

- buy a remanufactured box from Red Head or Blue Top (about $450). Reviews of Red Head seem to indicate spotty quality control, and several have needed to get warranty replacements for leaks and other issues. Blue Top has good reviews, and is a little cheaper, but I’m not sure they have one for my truck.

My initial idea is buy a new box from Rock Auto, but I assume they are manufactured offshore, and quality may be inconsistent.

I’d appreciate any input from others that have replaced their steering box. Thanks.
Buy a Lares brand steering box brand new from any parts store, no rebuilds. They are quality OEM replacements and known for not having issues. It's a top tier brand.
 

Bloodhound1981

Full Access Member
Joined
Nov 15, 2016
Posts
205
Reaction score
459
Location
MA
First Name
Rusty
Truck Year
1981
Truck Model
C-10
Engine Size
5.7
Did you notice any more vibration coming up from the column without the dampening from the rag joint. Also did the universal joint fit the steering box properly? I've seen where some have had to cut the pin from the steering gear shaft...
Nope, no vibrations to speak of. And the U joint fit correctly.
 

R Carnella

Full Access Member
Joined
Sep 21, 2017
Posts
376
Reaction score
825
Location
Long island
First Name
Rich
Truck Year
1990
Truck Model
Suburban V2500
Engine Size
5.3
Here is a video about the shaft conversion - There are others. You just make sure its a Cherokee XJ shaft -
xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media
Thanks, this is the borgeson shaft I'm considering.
You must be registered for see images attach
 
Last edited:

JT58

Member
Joined
Aug 1, 2023
Posts
49
Reaction score
69
Location
Naples, FL
First Name
JT
Truck Year
1987
Truck Model
V10
Engine Size
5.7
I had a shop do mine and they used a NAPA box (rebuilt). I was worried about issues but so far so good, no play or slop and no leaks.
 

MPWILSON33

Junior Member
Joined
Nov 6, 2021
Posts
8
Reaction score
15
Location
Whitesburg
First Name
Michael
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
2500
Engine Size
350
I used the Redhead box and the Borgeson U-joint link. I love them both. It drives much more precisely. The Moog ball joints however, are tight as a nun's a$$. When they wear in it will be even better.
 

Attachments

  • thumbnail_20230112_120258.jpg
    thumbnail_20230112_120258.jpg
    161.5 KB · Views: 48

WFO

Full Access Member
Joined
Jan 6, 2017
Posts
3,696
Reaction score
5,052
Location
Texas Panhandle
First Name
Dan
Truck Year
1986
Truck Model
K20
Engine Size
350
I used the Redhead box and the Borgeson U-joint link. I love them both. It drives much more precisely. The Moog ball joints however, are tight as a nun's a$$. When they wear in it will be even better.
Reminds me of an old joke about lug nuts. You might want to recheck those ball joints.
 

BBCfan

Member
Joined
Feb 21, 2018
Posts
40
Reaction score
35
Location
Edinboro
First Name
Rick
Truck Year
1976
Truck Model
C10 2WD
Engine Size
454
I'm in the process of rebuilding my Saginaw 800 (?)box. Not a job for the impatient or mechanically challenged. If you decide to rebuild yours and its a Saginaw keep me in mind for some pointers. I had less trouble replacing internal Muncie transmission parts.
 

Forum statistics

Threads
44,203
Posts
951,579
Members
36,335
Latest member
crew
Top