problem getting 350 started

[curse]

Can I get some of your thoughts please? it's been a looong time since I've messed with a carb motor but here we go. Motor turns over (slowly, maybe half of what it should be), gets fuel and spark but does not start or really even spit and sputter.

Motor is a stock GM crate motor (https://www.jegs.com/i/Chevrolet-Performance/809/12681429/10002/-1)

1. Installed brand new Edelbrock 1406 out of the box without adjusting anything. I used stock manifold so I did install the spacer under carb.

2. Tested for spark with an inline spark tester, lights up indicating spark.

3. Set motor to top dead center on compression stroke. I used a compression tester just to make sure it was compression.

4. Installed distributor with rotor facing towards cylinder #1. It may be a tooth off but is close and I am planning on double checking that.

5. Electric choke is hooked up, vacuum advance is hooked up.

6. I plan on buying a new gas tank and when I tried to start motor I had a hose into a gas can with ethanol free gas.

7. There is fuel in visible fuel filter.

8. wires on cap are 1,8,4,3,6,5.7.2

Two things...motor was turning over slow with a charged battery. I ordered a new starter since it seemed to be laboring and I never pushed accelerator pedal at all while trying to start.

Could the 2 things mentioned above be the issue with the no start?

 

[Shorty81]

Sounds like your timing is way off. Also pump up that carb, it's dry.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Mechanical pumps can take some time to prime up. Squirt some gas in the carb and if everything else is decent it'll fire.

 

[Customblue]

When setting up timing when the motor is new/ dizzy is new, make a mark on the outside of the cap in line with #1 and then transfer the mark to the bottom of the distributor body where the cap meets the body. Rotate the crank to 8 -12 btc, drop your distributor down so that the button is lined up with your mark once its seated on the block.
Keep in mind the distributor shaft thus the rotor button will rotate when the cam gear meshes withe the dizzy gear. Hope this helps.

 

[SirRobyn0]

A couple of thoughts. #1. if the inline spark checker is the kind with the bulb in it, they can show you have a spark when you do not have enough spark to jump the gap in the plugs. It's become such a problem at the shop that I won't let the guys use that type of spark checker. Try by plugging a spare plug into the wire and grounding out the end of the plug you should get a nice blue spark, red or orange spark will not be good enough. If it's got good strong spark, look to see if your getting gas into the manifold by taking off the air cleaner and looking into the carb while moving the throttle open and closed, you should see a shot of gas from the accelerator pump. If you have both of those then it must be a timing issue, it is surprisingly easy to think your at TDC when your actually 180 off.

 

[75gmck25]

Good news - its probabaly a very simple problem, so just continue to work it.

First suggestion - use the cap off a spray can to measure out some gas, and then hold the choke open and pour it directly into the primary side of the carburetor. Then try turning it over, and if it fires a couple of times you probably just need to get the carburetor float bowl full of gas.

Also make sure you are using the right distributor pointer (two probably came with the crate engine) and that its on the right bolts on the timing cover. It should be at about the 2 o'clock position.

If adding fuel does not work - Follow customblue's suggestion and check to see you have the engine at about 12 degrees BTDC with the distributor pointer at #1. If it is set there and still will not fire, then despite all your checks and having gas in the carburetor, maybe its 180 degrees out. Now turn the engine over by hand until you get the marks back to 12 degrees BTDC (which is now 180 degrees out at the distributor, and pointing to #6) , pull the distributor and align the pointer to #1 again. Then try starting again.

Bruce

 

[curse]

It's running. I found out I will never use a compression gauge to find the compression stroke again! It was not 180 degrees off, more like 90 degrees off. Enough to blow both cheapo turbo mufflers into pieces and scare the **** out of my neighbor who was mowing his lawn, lol. Like I said above, I screwed in the compression tester and turned over motor by hand till the needle started moving. Than removed tester and turned motor by hand to zero on the pointer. obviously not accurate.

 

[curse]

Finally got around to removing the mufflers

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[gotyourgoat]

What the hell? Muffles look new too, how much fuel was dumping into this thing?

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Finally got around to removing the mufflers

You must be registered for see images attach

We had that happen to a ferd at the shop once. Put a new exhaust on it and my uncle took it down the road, made it about 50 ft out of the yard and us guys at the shop heard a HUGE explosion, and we walked outside wondering wtf just happened.
My uncle comes back laughing his ass off, I lookEd at the bottom of the truck and the muffler did the exact same thing as yours, he said he scared some kids off a playground and crapped himself a little hahaha.

Such a loud boom I was amazed, all we did was half the exhaust system and muffler said nope. So idk must be a vacuum thing or something

 

[bucket]

Finally got around to removing the mufflers

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Impressive!!! It's for the best though. Those were some restrictive sumbitches.

 

[curse]

Yeah, i'm planning on Magnaflow or Porter mufflers. These were only on here to keep it quiet for the neighbors while I got it running right.

 

[curse]

Such a loud boom I was amazed, all we did was half the exhaust system and muffler said nope. So idk must be a vacuum thing or something

My ears were ringing for a few minutes. Lol

 

[AuroraGirl]

A couple of thoughts. #1. if the inline spark checker is the kind with the bulb in it, they can show you have a spark when you do not have enough spark to jump the gap in the plugs. It's become such a problem at the shop that I won't let the guys use that type of spark checker. Try by plugging a spare plug into the wire and grounding out the end of the plug you should get a nice blue spark, red or orange spark will not be good enough. If it's got good strong spark, look to see if your getting gas into the manifold by taking off the air cleaner and looking into the carb while moving the throttle open and closed, you should see a shot of gas from the accelerator pump. If you have both of those then it must be a timing issue, it is surprisingly easy to think your at TDC when your actually 180 off.

I think they sell a spark plug holder that plugs inline thats got a clamp on it, so you can do what you said with a little less work. I saw them at menards.

 

[SirRobyn0]

I think they sell a spark plug holder that plugs inline thats got a clamp on it, so you can do what you said with a little less work. I saw them at menards.

Yes they do and that is what we use at the shop, I was trying to give him an alternate method that wouldn't involve buying a new tool, but those are the best.