Please look over my emissions “delete”

[nolanswiger]

Hello I’ve recently removed emissions components and wanted to make sure (a,) I removed the right ones (b,) they are plug/installed in the right spots)

I’ve followed information from this website and other sources I’m not 100% sure it’s alright that’s why I’m asking more knowledgeable people.
The egr system was been disconnected
And the smog pumps belt has been removed. I’m still working on a really high idle but I assume it’s from a vacuum leak from a really dry rotten hose, I’m getting new ones soon. Please See the attached photos.

first image is based off the second image.

Thanks in advance. Ps I know I’m an amazing artist you don’t need to mention it.

1986 Chevy c10 305.

 

[Ricko1966]

Did you check vacuum to the distributor as I told you on post 13 of your 1st post? What are the results? I'd want my egr hooked up especially,on a 305 to prevent detonation. EGR goes away on its own,by design when you givebit throttle,it also decreases combustion temperature and increases mpg, so no reason to delete it. But good reasons to keep it.How are you dealing with the cannister? You have to have some way for the tankbto vent. Using the cannister is the best way. Venting to atmosphere allows your fuel to evaporate into space,without you getting to burn it,it also allows water into the gas tank,due to condensation. Rusts the tank,and fuel lines. Now go pull the vacuum hose off of the distributor at the distributor, and plug it. Did your idle come down?

 

[nolanswiger]

Did you check vacuum to the distributor as I told you on post 13 of your 1st post? What are the results? I'd want my egr hooked up especially,on a 305 to prevent detonation. EGR goes away on its own,by design when you givebit throttle,it also decreases combustion temperature and increases mpg, so no reason to delete it. But good reasons to keep it.How are you dealing with the cannister? You have to have some way for the tankbto vent. Using the cannister is the best way. Venting to atmosphere allows your fuel to evaporate into space,without you getting to burn it,it also allows water into the gas tank,due to condensation. Rusts the tank,and fuel lines. Now go pull the vacuum hose off of the distributor at the distributor, and plug it. Did your idle come down?

The egr system failed in some way (most likely smog pump) and I didn’t really want to have to deal with the mess it creates in the engine bay.

The fuel tank is still connected to the canister and is venting.

Plugging the distributor as you instructed did not lower the idle.

Thank you for helping once again.

 

[Ricko1966]

The egr system failed in some way (most likely smog pump) and I didn’t really want to have to deal with the mess it creates in the engine bay.

The fuel tank is still connected to the canister and is venting.

Plugging the distributor as you instructed did not lower the idle.

Thank you for helping once again.

Okay put a vacuum hose on the distributor . Plug it into manifold vacuum,does the idle come up more? Now I asked about the charcoal cannister, because you need a purge signal,look at your canister pic in the factory diaghram there are 4 lines hooked up,you are only showing one. The small line that ties into the air pump is your purge. Egr has nothing to do with air pump at all. It needs a ported vacuum line to it,that's it,for bare bones. It really should have a thermo vacuum switch,to shut it off cold but you can baby it cold. I'm asking about the distributor vacuum for a reason,so humor me. I'm finding out if your vacuum advance works,once we find that out,then we can figure out how to run vacuum advance to the distributor, yes there's more than one way,yes there's more than 2 ways.

 

[nolanswiger]

Okay put a vacuum hose on the distributor . Plug it into manifold vacuum,does the idle come up more? Now I asked about the charcoal cannister, because you need a purge signal,look at your canister pic in the factory diaghram there are 4 lines hooked up,you are only showing one. The small line that ties into the air pump is your purge. Egr has nothing to do with air pump at all. It needs a ported vacuum line to it,that's it,for bare bones. It really should have a thermo vacuum switch,to shut it off cold but you can baby it cold. I'm asking about the distributor vacuum for a reason,so humor me. I'm finding out if your vacuum advance works,once we find that out,then we can figure out how to run vacuum advance to the distributor, yes there's more than one way,yes there's more than 2 ways.

Okay I hooked the distributor to the manifold vacuum and it seemed to idle higher than before. I end up shutting it down after it revs up too high, it only runs for 10-30 seconds.

 

[Ricko1966]

Okay I hooked the distributor to the manifold vacuum and it seemed to idle higher than before. I end up shutting it down after it revs up too high, it only runs for 10-30 seconds.

Is your throttle closing? Do you have any vacuum lines coming off of the manifold ir carbureator that aren't connected to some thing? 1 thing that comes to mind is the pcv hose has a tee going to the diverted valve I believe make sure that hose isn't just suckingbair somewhere after your parts removal

 

[nolanswiger]

Is your throttle closing? Do you have any vacuum lines coming off of the manifold ir carbureator that aren't connected to some thing? 1 thing that comes to mind is the pcv hose has a tee going to the diverted valve I believe make sure that hose isn't just suckingbair somewhere after your

Is your throttle closing? Do you have any vacuum lines coming off of the manifold ir carbureator that aren't connected to some thing? 1 thing that comes to mind is the pcv hose has a tee going to the diverted valve I believe make sure that hose isn't just suckingbair somewhere after your parts removal

Nothing I can see with a visual check, I shoved a screw drive in the choke so that it would stay shut and it idles at maybe 500-600 rpm and bellows black smoke, I’ve sprayed water on any vacuum lines or connections and nothing changed it didn’t stumble or stall.

 

[mtbadbob]

Okay I hooked the distributor to the manifold vacuum and it seemed to idle higher than before. I end up shutting it down after it revs up too high, it only runs for 10-30 seconds.

Is your choke in fast idle position? Sounds to me like it's normal for cold start situations. Is the throttle plate in the idle position? Why does it only run for 10-30 seconds, is it running out of fuel? The engine needs to get up to temp before you make any type of poke-n-hope adjustments.

 

[nolanswiger]

Is your choke in fast idle position? Sounds to me like it's normal for cold start situations. Is the throttle plate in the idle position? Why does it only run for 10-30 seconds, is it running out of fuel? The engine needs to get up to temp before you make any type of poke-n-hope adjustments.

I should’ve clarified I’m turning it off after 10-30 seconds because it’ll continue to rev higher if I do t and don’t want to damage anything important.

I’m checking the carb now if something is wrong I do have a rebuild kit.

 

[mtbadbob]

Nothing I can see with a visual check, I shoved a screw drive in the choke so that it would stay shut and it idles at maybe 500-600 rpm and bellows black smoke, I’ve sprayed water on any vacuum lines or connections and nothing changed it didn’t stumble or stall.

What's the temp where you're starting this engine? Does your choke have 3 adjuster screws or rivits in it? When it's bellowing black smoke, manually open the choke plate about 1/8-3/16" and see if she'll clear up & pick up idle a bit. Sounds to me like an improperly adjusted choke at start-up.

 

[mtbadbob]

I should’ve clarified I’m turning it off after 10-30 seconds because it’ll continue to rev higher if I do t and don’t want to damage anything important.

I’m checking the carb now if something is wrong I do have a rebuild kit.

The whole choke circuit takes a couple minutes to get up to temp & idle at normal rpm's. Let 'er run a bit unless it's running like 4 grand or something, then that's not normal.

 

[nolanswiger]

What's the temp where you're stating this engine? Does your choke have 3 adjuster screws or rivits in it? When it's bellowing black smoke, manually open the choke plate about 1/8-3/16" and see if she'll clear up & pick up idle a bit. Sounds to me like an improperly adjusted choke at start-up.

Right now it’s 60 degrees, I don’t see any screws to adjust. I did open it 1/8 and it seemed to stop blowing black smoke but then again I’m leaning over the engine make sure it doesn’t open to much, if I open it even maybe 2/8 3/8 it’s revs up immediately.

 

[nolanswiger]

The whole choke circuit takes a couple minutes to get up to temp & idle at normal rpm's. Let 'er run a bit unless it's running like 4 grand or something, then that's not normal.

It most definitely running at 4 grand or at least around there. Unless again I almost close the choke.

 

[mtbadbob]

It most definitely running at 4 grand or at least around there. Unless again I almost close the choke.

Unhook your throttle cable, does the throttle plate change positions?

 

[Ricko1966]

Do you have vacuum going to the cruise control servo?