Performance flywheel/clutch

[highdesertrange]

fill the void with grease then use an old trans input shaft. place the input shaft in the normal position and hit it with a big ole hammer. the pilot bearing should pop right out. I am surprised the slide hammer didn't work, that is what I use. highdesertranger

 

[RustySS]

I dont want to sound like a dick, but I speak my mind. I was young once too, and I have learned a lot the hard way so I want to pass on some wisdom that you can either take it or leave it. In my opinion, spend your money wisely in all the right places. A loud stereo and a snotty exhaust wont get you very far other than attracting the popo, thieves and fat chicks. Set yourself a budget of $1200. Personally, I would invest in good brakes, Spicer U-joints, a good rebuilt carburetor tuned up properly, Warn hubs, and a decent set of used Mud Tires. Save up for a used Warn 8274 Winch. Make sure all your lights work, a good battery and alternator including cables and battery clamps. Like Rusty Nail said, Please... please get a Haynes shop manual and read it.. twice. That old square body will teach you all the essentials of pulling wrenches, skinning knuckles, building character, making you a man and life in general. It has seat belts... use them. Change oil religiously and wash the engine and underneath. KEEP IT SIMPLE, nothing wrong with stock replacement parts. A dual friction clutch and headers on your truck is like a boob job on a midget (no offence). Invest in a good multi-meter and a torque wrench. Learn how to use them. Set your timing with a vacuum gauge.

Take care of it and it will take care of you. Besides, Country Music sounds best on a factory AM radio. Any hoe can dig a sub, but a good woman loves a guy with an AM radio. Dude, you are 15. I would gladly trade places with you with what I know now.

Hope this helps. ~ Rusty

 

[AustinDube]

Yea i agree, i was just wondering for the future, but right now I got a flywheel in and shimmed the starter, its just headers now cause I couldnt fit my transmission jack without taking off the exhaust, now it runs mint and loud, but right now my electric choke on my quadrajet is not working, so i have to warm it up before i can get it to idle, and also how can i tell if my block heater plug works or not? I ordered a $100 billet steel flywheel that has quality material and I ordered an oem clutch from summit racing cause I took advice from you guys and I want to save some money to start working on the rust. Already checked out the frame and it is looking pretty solid but I could use some rockers and floors, cab corners are still good. Its a kickass project truck and if i could I would upload a video so you guys can hear it, I'll try to upload pics right now.

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[AustinDube]

[Can someone also help identify my motor, i know its a 350 but my truck is a 76 and ive heard the motor is from an 84, i have some pics to upload for you guys

The top may be hard to read but behind the valve cover on drivers side states:

GM3970010




ATTACH]34411[/ATTACH]

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[Rusty Nail]

Nice! 010 is a 350. Not a Mexican block...
Look on the driver side , under the manifold, near the oil filter housing for more markings but to detail the year, there is a pad below the cylinder head (front) passenger side. Prolly have to remove your alternator to get a good look at the SUFFIX CODES.

Good job on the pics, keep em coming! "Go advanced" and upload using the paperclip. May be easier.

Pull the easy valvecover to ID the cylinder heads!

 

[AustinDube]

ok cool, good to hear, i'll look tonight but I want to check out my electric choke and why its not working, and im not sure if my block heater is working as well, its real cold out here in northern Maine. Was -20 below yesterday

 

[Rusty Nail]

Eww.
What kind of choke is it? Does it have a metal tube, an electric wire, or a spring/rod lookin deadly attached to it?
We need a pic, there are many types/options.

 

[AustinDube]

I'll get to that later but just wondering is my block a 2 piece rear main seal? gotta change mine its leaking oil everywhere
its apparently from an 84

 

[highdesertrange]

yes, it's a 2 piece rear main. highdesertranger

 

[AustinDube]

Ok and how would I go about doing that? would I have to remove the piston rods and crankshaft?

 

[kickdeez]

No. You will have to drop the oil pan, potentially remove the oil pick-up, and remove the rear bearing retainer cap. Should be able to get the seal out then. Do yourself a huge favor and go to the auto parts store and spend $30 on a Haynes manual. Or order one for cheaper on amazon.

 

[AustinDube]

ah yea i got one i need to find it handy little manual tho!

 

[Rusty Nail]

/facepalm

I'm out.

This is a glimpse into the future.

 

[kickdeez]

/facepalm

I'm out.

This is a glimpse into the future.

Dude, he's 15. Everybody has to learn one way or another. Most 15 year olds are busy playing video games or glued to their phones/tablets/etc. At least this kid is getting under his truck and doing something with his hands. I know I wasn't dropping transmissions and swapping clutches when I was 15. At least he's giving it a go. I think he deserves a little slack.

OP, find your Haynes manual and read it. It will help a lot.

 

[AustinDube]

Ok i found my manual it was stowed far away in the corner of my garage haha. Just read up and the process seems pretty easy, gonna wait to get all of the parts first before I start tearing apart because its still cold out and I dont want the internals of my motor to get frosted up and get moisture in it. My transmission, transfer case both have a layer of frost on them, Im in a metal garage so i'm kind of worried about the frost and moisture in my oil. Also another question, should I put a small film of rtv on my rear main seal, or on the rear main bearing cap? and would it hurt to leave it open in the cold like that?