PaulCrawler78 92 Blazer

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Jims86

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i would love to keep the burb just to do that avalanch conversion.
 

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Paulscrawler78

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O geez I got the transmission out front seal is completely blown out
 

Paulscrawler78

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Where would I put the removal steps for the transmission for this pig and I'll be tearing my old transmission in a few days and I'll be taking a lot of pics for that process
 

HotRodPC

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Paulscrawler78

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OK I'll do that along with a tear down of the 700r4 and the rebuild with it for you Larry
 

Paulscrawler78

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OK so after extensive reading I've seen a lot of the same info on using compressed air to check clutch engagement is this true and what would be the chances of that being z good indicator saying my trans will work after the rebuild
 

HotRodPC

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OK so after extensive reading I've seen a lot of the same info on using compressed air to check clutch engagement is this true and what would be the chances of that being z good indicator saying my trans will work after the rebuild

DO IT !!! By all means AIR CHECK it. Follow whatever instructions you're finding on how to do it, and DO IT. DO ALL DRUMS AND CLUTCHES just like the directions say to do. What air check ensures, is that you did not tear any lip seals to the clutch pistons and when fluid gets behinds the piston and the seals that seal them into drum that the piston WILL compress the clutch pack and it work just like it's supposed to. IF it does not, then you've already ruled out bad seals or piston in a clutch pack and that the problem if there is one, is somewhere else, like a check ball forgotten, a hung valve in the VB.

In an air test what you want is, to hear, see and/or feel the clutch pack compress and NO AIR LEAKING into the drum, like a hissing noise. If you hear a hissing noise, then you tore a lip seal and need to pull it apart again and replace the torn seal with a new one.

After you've done several transmisisons you may not air test every drum, or just the one that you might have question about, but normally you'll get good enough to trust your work and KNOW you didn't tear seals. You can tell by rotating the piston in the drum before you put the return springs on and the retainer and snap ring. If it's not smooth or you feel it snagging, then safe to assume you tore a seal. BUT to answer your question, YES, By all means, being a rookie for surem AIR test it. You don't to blow seals either, so maybe use 30-40lbs strength.
 

Paulscrawler78

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OK sounds good to me. Me and the fnl want to rebuild transmissions for some side cash so I have 2 700r4s I will be building on for the Tahoe and the other to recoupe some of the headaches I have had to deal with but the other one will not be sold till I put about 3k miles on it and I also have a job interview at our local rail road so hopefully I'll be making good money soon but I'll be building transmissions here real soon maybe this weekend even my fnl is buying the rebuild kit and I'll be buying the sun shell and tc and I'll be buying the z pack and I'll be looking for a 4l85e to install in the Tahoe when I get ready to do the solid axle swap as well because I want a damn near bullet proof running gear for this thing
 

Paulscrawler78

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Larry what book should I get that u trust could you please post a link for me along with the rebuild kit that you know will address all the concerns you have about the 700r4 as I only want to do this rebuild once as long as it works the first go around all the information you can get would be greatly appreciated
 

HotRodPC

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Larry what book should I get that u trust could you please post a link for me along with the rebuild kit that you know will address all the concerns you have about the 700r4 as I only want to do this rebuild once as long as it works the first go around all the information you can get would be greatly appreciated

This one for sure. ATSG 4L60 book. NOT-E. If you didn't know, the 700r4 was renamed the 4L60. When it went to E in 93, it was then called 4L60-E. So your trans, 87 and up, (to 92) is actually a 4L60. The ATSG manual is great for the experienced builder. But for a beginner, I think you need more. ATSG is not in detail. It assumes you already have auto trans knowledge.

http://www.amazon.com/ATSG-700-R4-A...365493960&sr=8-13&keywords=700r4+transmission

I've not used this book, but I know Cliff Ruggles to be good at what he does. So I'd get this one. It will also cover the basics of both 700r4 and 200-4r. This one aloing with the ATSG manual should do the truck. Of course, YT videos are a big help too.

http://www.amazon.com/Automatic-Ove...94163&sr=8-3&keywords=700r4+transmission+book
 

HotRodPC

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OK sounds good to me. Me and the fnl want to rebuild transmissions for some side cash so I have 2 700r4s I will be building on for the Tahoe and the other to recoupe some of the headaches I have had to deal with but the other one will not be sold till I put about 3k miles on it and I also have a job interview at our local rail road so hopefully I'll be making good money soon but I'll be building transmissions here real soon maybe this weekend even my fnl is buying the rebuild kit and I'll be buying the sun shell and tc and I'll be buying the z pack and I'll be looking for a 4l85e to install in the Tahoe when I get ready to do the solid axle swap as well because I want a damn near bullet proof running gear for this thing

You can consider the 4L80-E just as good as the 4L85-E in that truck being it's lighter weight. The differences are minor and sometimes might just be one thing different like 5 pinion planets in the planetaries and if you really wanted, the 5 pinion planets are backward compatible to the 4L60-E, 4L60/700r4. I did use 4L60-E and 4L65-E as the example there. Which 5 pinion planets might be beneficial to a Vette, but not needed for a truck.

If you're going to build transmissions, plan on getting the special tools. They'll pay for themselves after about 10 transmissions. Things like ring sizers, clutch spring compressors, bushing drivers, end play checkers etc. And a good trans building table that will catch all the fluid and let it drain into a bucket. Some tools you can easily improvise. Best example of that, you mentioned a few days ago about needing a pump alignment tool. No you don't. Make the pump one of the first assemblies you rebuild. Place the front pump face down into the case, then drop the backside into the case. There you go. It's now aligned, put your bolts in it, snug them up, torque them, then pull the upside down pump out of he case and set it aside, then start building the trans. Or use what I do, a bggo hose clamp from the plumbing section at Home Depot for like $5.

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And this is what I use for lip seal tool. It's an art's and craft sculpture tool usually sold in the paint section of like Hobby Lobby. I've had the same 2 for over 20 years Stiff but yet flexible.
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Paulscrawler78

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K5 blazer
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5.7L
Thanks Larry your help will ensure I don't screw this up as far as the trans table I have one that also doubles as my vw and Subaru motor building table and for the transmission part I also fabricated a stand that swivles much like an engine stand so I can have it vertical for clutch and drum assembly and lay it horizontal for valve body installation
 

Paulscrawler78

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Ahwahnee CA 93601
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K5 blazer
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5.7L
Also what kit specifically would you recommend as a great all around kit that fixes all known issues I need to address in this build?
 

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