Patch Panel or Metal Fabrication ?

[mxer147]

Scrapped off the bubbly to determine the extent of the rust repair, looks mostly limited to both sides cab corners and both sides box behind rear wheels.

Does it make sense to buy patch panel or just fabricate my own patches for these small areas?

The driver side cab corner and passenger side box side are in worse condition.

 

[Midnightmoon]

Have you started in the there with a hammer to see how far the rust extends in those areas? Or, is what we are seeing just scraping/cleaning up the areas?

 

[mxer147]

Scraping and cleaning only but taped around it and it’s solid.

 

[Midnightmoon]

I'd vote for patch panels that you can fit and trim as needed. My gut tells me that once you start really diving in to those areas, the rust will be much more extensive than it appears. By the time you get to good clean steel, you may end up with a ton of fabrication.

 

[CalSgt]

I think I paid like $29 each for AMD cab corners… worth their weight in gold. Using prefabbed parts was quite a job, I’m sure if I would have made my own it would have cost me several days worth of work and required more body filler.

I haven’t used the bed patch panels but I wouldn’t hesitate

ETA: Invest in a quality spot weld cutter

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[mxer147]

Ok, can you please provide more information about the specific welder I should invest in?

 

[Terry Wilkerson]

Agree with buying per formed patch panels. I bought a Hobart 140 mig. I've been happy with it. If you going to spend the money get one with gas.

 

[CalSgt]

Ok, can you please provide more information about the specific welder I should invest in?

Agree with buying per formed patch panels. I bought a Hobart 140 mig. I've been happy with it. If you going to spend the money get one with gas.

^^^^ This is probably the best advice for most people. The Walmart or Tractor Store 110v units are good enough for sheet metal and exhaust work, and I would not bother with one that’s not capable of running shielding gas. Flux core wire is okay when nothing else is available or when you’re outside welding in breeze but it’s smokey, pops, spatters, and makes a mess for every other task.

If I didn’t already have access to a large MIG machine and Oxy/Acetylene torches I would invest in a multi process machine capable of high frequency start TIG, GMAW, and SMAW with reversible polarity.

If you want to invest in higher end tools Miller seems to be “IT” IMHO

 

[CalSgt]

Ok, can you please provide more information about the specific welder I should invest in?

I just posted my opinion on welders but we’re you asking about the spot weld cutter?

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/brc-11096

We’ve got one like this and a cheaper on from the same brand, the cheap one is junk The $40ish dollar one works much better

 

[Bennyt]

I know a couple of people that bought primeweld units and are extremely happy. I plan to buy a plasma from them soon.

 

[mxer147]

I bought a couple of welder’s about 5 years ago, still in original boxes. I guess I will need to set them up and convert the electric stove 30 amp circuit to 220 so I can operate them. I busted out the hammer, the worse cab corner and box corner had a bunch of bondo holding it together, really not that bad though. I actually have a new cab corner from my dad’s spare square body parts. I will buy the box panels as recommended.

 

[peats]

Miller 140 auto set is a good (not cheapest) welder. If you are just going to do auto body repair and up to 1/8" you will never need another welder. Use the .23 wire. Quality is remembered long after the price is forgotten. Remember to space your welds out to prevent warping. Also take it easy on the grinding as that can warp as well.

 

[85K304SPD]

.023 wire

 

[DoubleDingo]

I bought a couple of welder’s about 5 years ago, still in original boxes. I guess I will need to set them up and convert the electric stove 30 amp circuit to 220 so I can operate them. I busted out the hammer, the worse cab corner and box corner had a bunch of bondo holding it together, really not that bad though. I actually have a new cab corner from my dad’s spare square body parts. I will buy the box panels as recommended.

I was going to suggest a ball peen hammer. I was at the exhaust shop a while back and the owner was talking about a 60s Series Chevy cab he fixed up for a friend. His friend brought it over and the welder walked over with a hammer and started punching holes in the metal. The truck owner about blew a gasket. He told him that's the only way find out where the crumble rusted out metal stops, and good metal begins.

 

[mxer147]

I used a body hammer to break up the bondo and find solid metal . I’ll grind the area down to confirm good metal and sand blast areas needing cleanup. No reason to hammer the **** out of it to only create more work.