Passing CA Smog help - High HCs

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ButchM

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Thanks - will do. 1977s do not have a catalytic converter - I was told that testing hot was for the catalytic converter. Is that true?
The cats must be up to temp before they operate (change HC and CO to H2O and CO2) and normal operating temp also ensures the choke is fully open, and a fully warmed up engine does a better job of burning all the fuel it can.
A stuck partially closed choke will drive HC up a bunch. You probably should to ensure choke is fully opening when warmed up.
Check the choke pull-off is operating correctly.
Check that thermal air cleaner door is opening after warmed up.
You didn't mention if the high HC was at idle or above idle under load.
 

JBswth

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I think they do that on purpose. Mine shows up as a gross polluter as well, and there has never been any mention of it needing to be fixed by a shop. There is nothing to fix anyhow, everything works, it's just an old truck that stinks to high heaven of exhaust fumes no matter how well it is tuned.
Maybe they backed off on that then, because I had a vehicle labeled as such in the 90s as such and I had to have a Repair Only facility repair it and I had to show the receipts.

J.B.
 

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Maybe they backed off on that then, because I had a vehicle labeled as such in the 90s as such and I had to have a Repair Only facility repair it and I had to show the receipts.

J.B.
I wonder if mine is shown as a gross polluter because it is a 3/4 ton without catalyst converter, or egr, just the smog pump, check valves, and other gadgets on thermostat, air cleaner, and exhaust, along with 5 miles of vacuum hose to connect it all?
 

JBswth

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I wonder if mine is shown as a gross polluter because it is a 3/4 ton without catalyst converter, or egr, just the smog pump, check valves, and other gadgets on thermostat, air cleaner, and exhaust, along with 5 miles of vacuum hose to connect it all?
No, not if it
I wonder if mine is shown as a gross polluter because it is a 3/4 ton without catalyst converter, or egr, just the smog pump, check valves, and other gadgets on thermostat, air cleaner, and exhaust, along with 5 miles of vacuum hose to connect it all?
No, not if it was built that way. They have to test it before they can label it a "Gross Polluter".
 

77Matt

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I don’t want to keep you guys hanging so I’m posting an update. I had to replace the throttle linkage bracket which bolts on the last 2 bolts of the intake manifold. I was using a torque wrench to get in properly a snapped the bolt. So now I’m dealing with a busted post- not flush- stuck in the block. I’m hoping that if I remove the intake manifold I will have some post to work with, hopefully Saturday. To be continued very soon…
 

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I don’t want to keep you guys hanging so I’m posting an update. I had to replace the throttle linkage bracket which bolts on the last 2 bolts of the intake manifold. I was using a torque wrench to get in properly a snapped the bolt. So now I’m dealing with a busted post- not flush- stuck in the block. I’m hoping that if I remove the intake manifold I will have some post to work with, hopefully Saturday. To be continued very soon…
I don't know how good you are with a drill,but drilling and tapping holes on assembled engines is super common in a shop setting. Take a hard look if you pull the distributor can you get a straight shot with a drill? Or a right angle drill? Your stub sticking up is it broken in a fashion that you can get a sharp punch in there and put a good dimple center or darn close? If so use a short 1/16th bit and drill a pilot hole it doesn't need to go full depth. Now pull an adjacent bolt push a 3/16 bit to the bottom of that hole and put a wrap of masking tape around the bit as a marker. Now drill your hole deeper 3/16th I'll have to look up tap drill size for that hole, anyway 1 shy of your tap drill size the bolt will be so hollow you can collapse it with a sharp punch,if not drill it tap drill size and tap it. Do not use an EZ out. And go slow and cautious with the tap,if it feels tight pull it out clean the flutes clean debris out of the hole,and proceed with caution. Use sharp bits,just for fun use a new 3/16 left hand bit( counter clockwise) every now and then you'll get lucky and it will grab just as it breaks through the other end of the bolt and it will unscrew on the drill bit. If you take the manifold off you can the broken stud with a flat washer a nut and a mig welder. Touch a crayon at the base right after you weld the wax wicks in like sweating pipe between the heat and the wax they usually come out pretty easy.
 
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@JBswth I was meaning because it's heavy duty and doesn't have all the extra gadgets, and because it has 8 lugs, they consider it a commercial vehicle, even though I don't have a business, nor do I use it or loan for a business to use.

I can see the powers that be blanket-labeling all vehicles with 8 lugs as gross polluters. Not saying they did, just that it's possible, in the same fashion they automatically deem them commercial vehicles.
 

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The smog shop I go to, the dyno was down, and the guy that runs it was out. He finally came back and I stopped in the other day to talk to him and also ask if the dyno was fixed. It is.

Out of curiosity, and not because I didn't believe it, I asked him if it is true, if a vehicle didn't come factory with a catalytic converter and one is added, will it fail. He said it will fail, and that is stupid because it will clean up the exhaust. Flippin lame!

If I decide to add a cat I will need to have it installed with flanges, and a short pipe of the same length, also with flanges, so I can swap in the pipe for emissions testing. If they ask why the short pipe with flanges, I will just say it's so I can remove the y-pipe to work on the engine, or remove the rear portion of the exhaust to work on stuff.
 

77Matt

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All my conversations and research trended towards that same conclusion. I can now understand why it would have to be carb compliant - because the product has the quality to perform over the period until the next test - but I don’t understand why I can’t add it to ensure I am not polluting.

Either way, I’m taking mine in tomorrow to test. Hopefully the truck gods are looking down on me favorably.
 

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All my conversations and research trended towards that same conclusion. I can now understand why it would have to be carb compliant - because the product has the quality to perform over the period until the next test - but I don’t understand why I can’t add it to ensure I am not polluting.

Either way, I’m taking mine in tomorrow to test. Hopefully the truck gods are looking down on me favorably.
Good luck on the testing.

I also mentioned to him about having to test again this year when I tested last year. He said it had to get a gross polluter label on it. It did need to retest last year. So, unless it passes on the first try this year, it'll most likely need to be tested yearly. I will be doing similar to you, and replacing stuff, adjusting stuff, and making sure it is tip-top running condition before it even gets to the smog shop.

I'll be getting mine tested next week, this weekend it'll get a thorough looking over.
 

77Matt

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Failed visual- the eddy 1400 carb, although carb compliant, has a manifold vacuum port for egr function. Since egr is not spec for this truck and this carb requires it- auto fail. At least the dude was kind enough to not charge me.
 

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Failed visual- the eddy 1400 carb, although carb compliant, has a manifold vacuum port for egr function. Since egr is not spec for this truck and this carb requires it- auto fail. At least the dude was kind enough to not charge me.
The carb requires EGR? Is it’s just an unused barb for a hose, can’t you just put a cap on it? I’m confused…
 

77Matt

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The carb requires EGR? Is it’s just an unused barb for a hose, can’t you just put a cap on it? I’m confused…
I was as confused as you. Because the text in the CARB doc states that the manifold port has “egr functionality”, the carburetor needs an egr system for proper functioning. Since the stock truck does not have an egr system, I cannot add one. So basically wrong carb.
 

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Failed visual- the eddy 1400 carb, although carb compliant, has a manifold vacuum port for egr function. Since egr is not spec for this truck and this carb requires it- auto fail. At least the dude was kind enough to not charge me.
That bites!
 

DoubleDingo

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@77Matt I hope you get yours to pass with a different carburetor installed.

I just took mine in and it passed.

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