ORD 1" body lift?

[HotRodPC]

Yeah, thanks for reminding me all the reasons I don't want a body lift. I don't think I will. I only see body lift as justified, is if you have a paticular creek or pond you are crossing and the extra couple inches would make a differance of getting water in the cab or not. I did figure if I did it, at least on the bed, I was gonna figure out some long solid rails instead of using the bushings. I put pretty heavy stuff in the bed, and a body lift does not support the bed floor at all, not even on the fraime rails.

 

[Swims350]

they had a test on them things with a big dozer or something and it was pushing down on them actually lifted the equipment off the ground or something and the block didn't break or bust. Sounds tough enough to me. The bolts I'd worry about, and the ones for the 88-98 trucks have a metal block that gets welded in between the bed rail and frame rail to keep from sinking in the bed. Not sure how much good it would do.

On these squarebodies lifts are cheap enough to just do susp. lift, and scrap a body lift.

an inch or so may not be bad, but on the 88-98 trucks a 4 inch or 6 inch lift is like a grand, and they are the same kit one just doesn't have add a leafs. Shoot the 2-3 inch kits are over $400 and do nothing but crank the torsion bars up. In that case like me and my 88 the body lift is worth it. On these trucks I think I'd stick with a susp. lift, add in add a leafs or zero rates, shackles or something to get a bit more. if that don't do it or it's already done then I guess I would do a body lift. I just hate the bumper gap. The newer 88-98's have 2 inch and 3 inch bumper lift brackets which makes it alot better.

 

[HotRodPC]

they had a test on them things with a big dozer or something and it was pushing down on them actually lifted the equipment off the ground or something and the block didn't break or bust. Sounds tough enough to me. The bolts I'd worry about, and the ones for the 88-98 trucks have a metal block that gets welded in between the bed rail and frame rail to keep from sinking in the bed. Not sure how much good it would do.

On these squarebodies lifts are cheap enough to just do susp. lift, and scrap a body lift.

an inch or so may not be bad, but on the 88-98 trucks a 4 inch or 6 inch lift is like a grand, and they are the same kit one just doesn't have add a leafs. Shoot the 2-3 inch kits are over $400 and do nothing but crank the torsion bars up. In that case like me and my 88 the body lift is worth it. On these trucks I think I'd stick with a susp. lift, add in add a leafs or zero rates, shackles or something to get a bit more. if that don't do it or it's already done then I guess I would do a body lift. I just hate the bumper gap. The newer 88-98's have 2 inch and 3 inch bumper lift brackets which makes it alot better.

All that makes alot of sense. Maybe I'll just do a 6inch suspension and call it good. First thing I'll do is put in the 3/4 rear springs. I know that won't give me 6inchs of lift, but I'll see what that gives me. I intend to do 3/4 ton spring swaps and 14b Full Float in the rear and convert the front to 8 lug, so that will net me a 3/4 ton conversion. I'll also check into the diamer of the cylinder in the master cylinder, and might upgrade that too. So many people do mods and they forgert the minor details that do make a difference. I might even see if the 1 ton master is bigger and go with it. I like having strong brakes.

 

[crazy4offroad]

The 3/4 ton rear springs (56") wont give you any lift. This is why I have almost 2" worth of flat add-a-leafs on my spring packs in combination with the 4" shackle flip to make up the 6" to match the front. Somewhere down the road I would like to get 2" lift springs and get rid of all the AALs.

 

[HotRodPC]

The 3/4 ton rear springs (56") wont give you any lift. This is why I have almost 2" worth of flat add-a-leafs on my spring packs in combination with the 4" shackle flip to make up the 6" to match the front. Somewhere down the road I would like to get 2" lift springs and get rid of all the AALs.

That's what I kinda figured, but I do still wanna do the 56 inch springs since they are more comfy, and I do intend to tow, so I do want the added strength.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Yep they do ride better, but be warned if you wanna run them with your factory shackle setup you will have to relocate it 4" to the rear. Otherwise the shackle will be contacting the mount bracket. That's why the shackle flip kit is a good thing.

 

[HotRodPC]

Yep they do ride better, but be warned if you wanna run them with your factory shackle setup you will have to relocate it 4" to the rear. Otherwise the shackle will be contacting the mount bracket. That's why the shackle flip kit is a good thing.

Yep, I am aware of that. The frame is already punched OEM with the holes to move the hangers back.

 

[CknightK10]

Yep they do ride better, but be warned if you wanna run them with your factory shackle setup you will have to relocate it 4" to the rear. Otherwise the shackle will be contacting the mount bracket. That's why the shackle flip kit is a good thing.

Im gonna do 56s in the rear too, but luckily I have the shackle flip so all I have to do is swap the hangers to the opposite sides.

I think I am gonna do the 1" body lift from ORD because I need to do new bushings anyway and with only 1" I dont think my cab will be falling off anytime soon

 

[Old77]

...with only 1" I dont think my cab will be falling off anytime soon

.....

 

[89Suburban]

Yep, I am aware of that. The frame is already punched OEM with the holes to move the hangers back.

No ****? That's cool.

 

[Swims350]

that's what I was thinking if it's already punched that's pretty good.

As for a 1 inch body lift I saw it on a 88-98 couldn't tell it was there, definately want to see pics. worst part I think was already listed, front filler piece being close to the bumper, easy fix though, take it off, trim it up, lower it down, something. As for the bumpers maybe you can chop part of the mount and use the lower hole to bolt it back up to the frame, or like on some of the step bumpers just raise the bumper and drill new holes in it.

 

[HotRodPC]

No ****? That's cool.

Yep your burb is probably done too 89S. You oughta consider it to fix that saggy ass. You ever get around these parts, when I get done, I shoudl have an extra set of 56 in 3/4 ton rear springs you can have. I know I have a set of heavy duty half ton 56 in springs which you might like and work for you too, and might even keep it level or just above level. The 56 half ton springs are already off and on the floor in the shop.

 

[Sasquatch]

I have a 2 inch body lift in my pickup. I never liked body lifts but when i replaced my bed and cab the only good cab i could find was a two wheel drive cab and i didn`t feel like swapping the floors to clear the transmission.

My friend modified my bumper brackets and frame to lift them to the right height but i couldn`t use the mounts on the ends. So basically if i ever hit anything on the corners i`ll have some damage.

I wouldn`t worry about the strength of the blocks, i pick up 2000 pound pallets of wood pellets all winter for friends and family without any problems.

I don`t have any close up pics of the bumper gaps, the suburban is obviously stock and the pickup has the body lift.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[89Suburban]

Damn that's a beautiful driveway you have. Nice. If I looked out my window and seen that **** stitting there I'd have a heart attack, haha...

 

[89Suburban]

Yep your burb is probably done too 89S. You oughta consider it to fix that saggy ass. You ever get around these parts, when I get done, I shoudl have an extra set of 56 in 3/4 ton rear springs you can have. I know I have a set of heavy duty half ton 56 in springs which you might like and work for you too, and might even keep it level or just above level. The 56 half ton springs are already off and on the floor in the shop.

That's measured eye hole to eye hole or overall?