Opinions on an Engine Swap for 81 C10

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Catbox

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@Catbox Jees Peter, that kid is worth his weight in gold, comin up with all these deals. I know you're paying, but do you tip HIM??....LOL
He gets paid in experience and self confidence.
He is light years ahead of where I was at his age.

Plus he gets to drive the truck, so yeah.
Not like I get to reap the benefits of what I am leading him to do....
 

DoubleDingo

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I've done the Option #3 route, and it was a good way to go. It's still a good option, and they now have more crate engine options than what was available back in the 90s. I didn't have an intake, so I had to get an intake, but had everything else, and it was a simple swap over of accessories, and stab the engine, break-in the cam, and seat the rings, and drive the piss out of it. If it wasn't for moisture getting into #4 and #6 cylinders as it sat covered-up while I was waiting to rebuild the old truck, that engine would still be in perfect running condition, as it only had about 30k on it when I pulled it. It ran good, wasn't a powerhouse, but I got 14-16 mpgs in an old '65 while driving 70 mph down the road. It had 3.54 rear end gears, and that helped a ton with economy.
 

Camar068

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I've done the Option #3 route, and it was a good way to go. It's still a good option, and they now have more crate engine options than what was available back in the 90s. I didn't have an intake, so I had to get an intake, but had everything else, and it was a simple swap over of accessories, and stab the engine, break-in the cam, and seat the rings, and drive the piss out of it. If it wasn't for moisture getting into #4 and #6 cylinders as it sat covered-up while I was waiting to rebuild the old truck, that engine would still be in perfect running condition, as it only had about 30k on it when I pulled it. It ran good, wasn't a powerhouse, but I got 14-16 mpgs in an old '65 while driving 70 mph down the road. It had 3.54 rear end gears, and that helped a ton with economy.

back in the 90's you could get a long block for $1,300 at autozone/advanced. I noticed prices have gone up.
 

DoubleDingo

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back in the 90's you could get a long block for $1,300 at autozone/advanced. I noticed prices have gone up.

When I got mine in '98 it was $1,600 from the Chevy dealer. I had the option to get the vortec head engine, or the non-vortec. Knowing vortec was fuel injected, and not having sources or the extra cash to convert over to FI, I went with non-vortec, but they said everything but the heads was the same as a vortec engine. Crate engine is still a great way to go if you need a fresh powerplant.
 

ceejay

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When I got mine in '98 it was $1,600 from the Chevy dealer. I had the option to get the vortec head engine, or the non-vortec. Knowing vortec was fuel injected, and not having sources or the extra cash to convert over to FI, I went with non-vortec, but they said everything but the heads was the same as a vortec engine. Crate engine is still a great way to go if you need a fresh powerplant.

Yeah, the only bad thing is now they are about 3k...
 

DoubleDingo

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Yeah, the only bad thing is now they are about 3k...

True. Still money well-spent. You get all new parts, a warranty, and after the warranty, you can upgrade parts on a broke-in engine and gain torque and economy.
 

C10MixMaster

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A couple things to note if going the vortec rout is the manifold is different and most of the blocks are not machined for a fuel pump. The heads do not have provisions for the exhaust crossover in the manifold, if you are in cold weather it might not like the cold.
 

ceejay

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Saw a 90s 350 Vortec (I think) engine on Facebook Marketplace today. It was a 880 block, which I believe has provisions to run roller cam and has mechanical fuel pump. Am I correct on this?
 

DoubleDingo

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A couple things to note if going the vortec rout is the manifold is different and most of the blocks are not machined for a fuel pump. The heads do not have provisions for the exhaust crossover in the manifold, if you are in cold weather it might not like the cold.

Yeah, cold weather and carbed vortec is not a good combo
 

Vbb199

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C10MixMaster

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Saw a 90s 350 Vortec (I think) engine on Facebook Marketplace today. It was a 880 block, which I believe has provisions to run roller cam and has mechanical fuel pump. Am I correct on this?


No its hit and miss. GM got stupid on this one. Some are not machined at all, some are machined with holes for a cover plate but no hole for the rod , and I've heard some have all the holes but the pump rod wasn't finish reamed. In addition the cam may or may not have a fuel pump lobe. There is a jig out there to drill the holes but its pricy like $600? . Vortec was on my list but these are reasons I never pulled the trigger on one. I ended up with a low mileage ZZ4 crate motor from someone doing a ls swap.
 

JeffK10America

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What’s the era of truck , is it a mechanical fuel pump ... something I would consider when going to a later model engine , you definitely don’t want an electric fuel pump on the frame . I believe a good rebuildable 350 will be your best option cost wise ! And plenty of power to make you happy!
 

ceejay

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What kind of block is ideal? Pre 87 would have mechanical pump, but flat tappet cam, correct?
 

C10MixMaster

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What kind of block is ideal? Pre 87 would have mechanical pump, but flat tappet cam, correct?


looks like around 1988 is when roller cams started showing up in the SBC . So if you want a roller cam block look for 88 and later.

1 NOT all 88 and later blocks are machined for a roller cam a lot of trucks were flat hydraulic lifters
2 Some late 80's and 90 blocks are machined for both roller cam and mechanical fuel pump.
3 some vortecs are fully machined its a crap shoot.

Its alot like finding a 4 bolt main block the only way to be sure is to open it up and look.

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Roller block has a cam retaining plate that a non roller does not

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Fuel pump mount might have 1 hole might have 4 holes and a cover , may or may not have the pump rod hole finished. insert a pump rod to be sure!

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basically go to your local pick a part look and see if the fuel pump has a cover if it does pull it and insert a fuel pump rod.
then if it passes that test ,pull the intake and see it the bosses on oil galley are there and drilled (sometimes it has bosses that are not drilled) or if it already has the roller lifter retainer spider.

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Bextreme04

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It should also be noted that there really isn't any need to have a newer block to run a roller setup. You can run a roller cam on an older block by using retrofit lifters with the link bar and having a cam button on the timing cover. You also need a melonized gear on the distributor and a correct roller cam.
 

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