Oil burnin 5.3

[AuroraGirl]

I would change the intake manifold gaskets and PCV/valve cover. Then I would pull the plugs and use AC Delco upper cylinder cleaner and put a couple tablespoons in each cylinder(it will clean ALL of the carbon and junk off the pistons and cylinder walls). Let it sit for an hour or two with the cleaner in the cylinders and then crank it over with the plugs still out. It will blow all the liquid and junk out. Then put the OLD plugs back in and go give it a hard italian tune-up. It should help blow the junk out and re-seat the rings. Then put NEW plugs in and probably new plug wires as well. Doing all that to my 2011 helped a ton with oil consumption and overall power.

is that close to the procedure you referenced?

Spoiler: tsb

Bulletin No.: 99-06-01-010B Date: June 17, 2003 TECHNICAL Subject: Engine Cold/Knock/Tick Noise (Clean Deposits) Models: 1996-1999 Cadillac DeVille, Eldorado, Seville 2001-2002 Oldsmobile Aurora with 4.0L or 4.6L Engine (VINs C, Y, 9 - RPOs L47, LD8, L37) Supercede: This bulletin is being revised to change model years. Please discard Corporate Bulletin Number 99-06-01-010A (Section 06 - Engine). Condition Some customers may comment about a tick/knock noise, sometimes described as an upper engine ticking noise or a deep low knock that sounds similar to a main bearing knock. This noise is more often heard during engine start up after a long cold soak condition and may or may not diminish as the engine reaches normal operating temperature. The knock may appear to be the loudest at the exhaust manifolds on either side or both. This noise does not change when disconnecting spark plug wires, or individually disabling the fuel injectors. As a general rule, the source of this noise cannot be determined. Cause The source of this noise may be carbon deposits in the engine combustion chambers. Correction Before considering major engine repairs, the technician should perform the following procedure to clean carbon from the engine combustion chambers. Note: This procedure must be strictly followed. If this procedure is not strictly adhered to, hydrostatic lock may result, causing severe engine damage. 1. Obtain one can of GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC) P/N 1052626 (in Canada, use P/N 993026). 2. Start the engine and bring the engine coolant temperature above the 200-degree mark on the instrument panel gauge, or approximately 220°F (104°C) on the Tech 2 scan tool. Important: Do not raise the engine speed above normal idle. 3. With the engine idling, disconnect the PCV hose from the PCV valve and slowly spray the GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC) into the end of the hose. 4. Raise the engine speed to approximately 2000 RPM until you see a cloud of white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, then shut off the engine. 5. Let the vehicle sit for at least 20 minutes, preferably overnight. This allows time for the GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC) to act on the carbon deposits. 6. Once the soak period has been completed, start the engine and proceed to remove the remainder of the GM Top Engine Cleaner (TEC) from the engine by increasing the engine speed to 2000 RPM until the white smoke has diminished. 7. If the noise is still present after performing this procedure, continue with traditional engine knock noise diagnosis as outlined in the applicable Service Manual.

this was only for northstar but wonder if the LS engines had any juicy GM tricks to help things. i am told by experts (on a forum) that this was only referred to for noise because gm was trying to avoid admitting it was an oil burning problem so much as we are fixing customer noise complaints vs we are trying to fix another issue but this one sounds more initiative taking than saying we built engines that burn ungodly amounts of oil as design choice


now they use class action litigation to say that LOL

 

[Grit dog]

Needs moar pix!

I’m sure you can find some….most of us know what a grimy 5.3 looks like.
Or maybe a death metal song or 2…

 

[Grit dog]

@Rusty Nail and @Bextreme04, yes you’re right about the 20-50. And I haven’t used any in the Tahoe yet and likely won’t as it’s far thicker than I thought. Never used it before but needed some for the hydrostatic motors on the mower. Ended up w more than needed since I didn’t wait for the Amazon order to show up before buying some at the store to do the mower maintenance.
I’ve used 5w50 and it’s not as thick as this stuff. After seeing it pour at around 30 deg F, I won’t be using it in any tight tolerance or splash lube engines.
Thanks for the heads up.

 

[Bextreme04]

the LS engines had a TSB for the cleaning the cylinder walls?
Weird, the Northstar pre 2000 family had that too i bet it was adapted from that lol

It was for 2011-2013 GM vehicles using the Gen IV 5.3 with AFM/DOD. Basically they found that the DOD could cause excessive blowby when active in the dead cylinders and that could foul the plugs and cause excessive carbon buildup. The procedure was intended to clear the excess carbon and help re-seat the rings. It was in combination with an AFM oil pressure bypass valve deflector and also the new design of PCV baffle in the drivers side head. My truck had oil usage issues and it turned out that I had the baffle already, but the drivers side PCV valve baffle was the old design and had the drain holes completely clogged with carbon, so it was sucking oil straight into the intake through the breather. New valve cover, upper cylinder cleaning, and new plugs/wires got my oil consumption to zero and returned quite a bit of power and fuel economy.

 

[Bextreme04]

Here's the TSB.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10114272-9999.pdf

Looks like it was actually 2007-2011. My Suburban is a 2011, but must have been produced right between the two updates being released, since it had the oil deflector but not the revised valve cover.

The upper cylinder cleaner is stupid expensive, but works awesome. I found that it is identical to a BMW 82140428376 cleaner, and I was able to source that for much cheaper. You can get two quarts on ebay for $60 right now. The AC Delco cleaner is almost impossible to find.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/piston-soak-bmw-82140428376-vs-acdelco-x66p.316417/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3943631098...9Z5Nghpm5tSzBns-SAC9r4yV7FsWaxKRoCPMwQAvD_BwE

 

[WFO]

Here's the TSB.
https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...nsumption-in-afm-v-8-engines-2007-2011.21186/

Looks like it was actually 2007-2011. My Suburban is a 2011, but must have been produced right between the two updates being released, since it had the oil deflector but not the revised valve cover.

The upper cylinder cleaner is stupid expensive, but works awesome. I found that it is identical to a BMW 82140428376 cleaner, and I was able to source that for much cheaper. You can get two quarts on ebay for $60 right now. The AC Delco cleaner is almost impossible to find.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/piston-soak-bmw-82140428376-vs-acdelco-x66p.316417/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3943631098...9Z5Nghpm5tSzBns-SAC9r4yV7FsWaxKRoCPMwQAvD_BwE

I've been watching this thread. So you're saying I'm good to go on my 2003 5.3?

It just hit 69,000 miles this week.

 

[Bextreme04]

I've been watching this thread. So you're saying I'm good to go on my 20003 5.3?

It just hit 69,000 miles this week.

What are you asking? There a lot of variations out there of LS. A 2003 wouldn't have AFM or DOD, so you don't have to worry about that. I would still check the PCV system and EGR if it has it. I'd also do a good carbon buildup cleanout and make sure I changed all the gaskets before putting it into anything. New plugs and wires would also be a good idea after cleaning it all up.

 

[WFO]

What are you asking? There a lot of variations out there of LS. A 2003 wouldn't have AFM or DOD, so you don't have to worry about that. I would still check the PCV system and EGR if it has it. I'd also do a good carbon buildup cleanout and make sure I changed all the gaskets before putting it into anything. New plugs and wires would also be a good idea after cleaning it all up.

Sorry for any confusion. This 5.3 is in my 2003 Z71 that I bought new. Was just wondering if there's anything I need to look into about PCV and/or EGR.

My brother's 04 GMC with a 5.3 has almost 300,000 miles and bone stock. Never had any problems with it engine wise.

 

[85K304SPD]

Here's the TSB.
https://gmtnation.com/forums/thread...nsumption-in-afm-v-8-engines-2007-2011.21186/

Looks like it was actually 2007-2011. My Suburban is a 2011, but must have been produced right between the two updates being released, since it had the oil deflector but not the revised valve cover.

The upper cylinder cleaner is stupid expensive, but works awesome. I found that it is identical to a BMW 82140428376 cleaner, and I was able to source that for much cheaper. You can get two quarts on ebay for $60 right now. The AC Delco cleaner is almost impossible to find.

https://bobistheoilguy.com/forums/threads/piston-soak-bmw-82140428376-vs-acdelco-x66p.316417/

https://www.ebay.com/itm/3943631098...9Z5Nghpm5tSzBns-SAC9r4yV7FsWaxKRoCPMwQAvD_BwE

That top link to the TSB doesn't open without a password.

 

[Bextreme04]

That top link to the TSB doesn't open without a password.

Here it is on the NHTSA website.
https://static.nhtsa.gov/odi/tsbs/2014/MC-10114272-9999.pdf

 

[Camar068]

Thx to all for the suggestions, especially @AuroraGirl. Here's fingers crossed its the PCV. Otherwise I just stocked up on Castrol 20W50 because apparently noone uses it and it's on "clearance" everywhere. $20 for 5qt jug is cheaper by a large margin than even no name oils. (Plus I needed a couple gallons for the hydros in the mower, great oil to run int he 350 in the boat in the summer as well)

I may not respond with the issue for a while, it's not on page 1 of the to do list, but I was thinking about finding another beater for the kid to drive and dumping this one although he loves driving it, so it may get a little love in the near future.

pretty sure I got Havoline 5w30 6 quart box at walmart for $20. If your losing that much oil, it's another option.

 

[Ricko1966]

Techron complete fuel system cleaner. Or gumout 5100013 high milage fuel injector cleaner are supposed to be good for piston soak. Don't know how that price compares, but availability is more convenient.

 

[RecklessWOT]

Supposedly 120k miles (why I bought it, now 130k after the last few months of driving it), not sure I trust that the odometer hasn’t been swapped...

In '01 those trucks had digital odometers if I remember correctly? IME for digital odometers that number is stored elsewhere in the computer, swapping the cluster usually doesn't change anything. If your truck has 200k on it and you throw in a cluster from a truck that has 50k, it should still read 200k unless someone specifically programmed it otherwise. I could be wrong as I've never swapped the cluster in a GM from that era, but other brands I have seen function this way

 

[Grit dog]

In '01 those trucks had digital odometers if I remember correctly? IME for digital odometers that number is stored elsewhere in the computer, swapping the cluster usually doesn't change anything. If your truck has 200k on it and you throw in a cluster from a truck that has 50k, it should still read 200k unless someone specifically programmed it otherwise. I could be wrong as I've never swapped the cluster in a GM from that era, but other brands I have seen function this way

You’re correct. It’s digital. And makes sense, I also believed the cluster takes the mileage from the ecm or something, but reading up on it. It appears the mileage stays with the cluster as there’s all kinds of tutuorals that sound complicated about how to reprogram to get the actual mileage on a replacement cluster.
I’m generally quite thorough and observant when purchasing. And this thing runs like a sewing machine from engine, trans, brakes suspension etc however in my haste to buy out of necessity the only low mile decent vehicle for a decent price that I could find, I’ve since noticed a few things that may signify something is not quite adding up.
Aside from the issue that started this thread, the gear shifter is exceptionally sloppy and everything doesn’t fit quite right around the steering column.
The other weird thing was popped the airbox open (after purchasing) and while everything under the hood and in the front end looks as it should be with no evidence of a collision repair, the air filter has a date and mileage written on it in marker, of June 2010 and 151,*** miles.
So rather confusing as the rest of the vehicle, aside from not being super well taken care of from an aesthetics standpoint, looks and runs like a lower mile rig.

As it stands, it’s suffered some new driver damage and some bad luck already, so it’s now been renamed the crash wagon not the snack wagon!
(Kid feels horrible. He turned a little scratch and crease into a big dent when he rubbed paint in a parking lot and then turned the wheels the wrong way after the fact. Then he dodged an elk in a blind corner in our subdivision coming home in the dark and took out a mailbox, jumped a cedar stump in someone’s yard and put it in the woods nose first! Then a tarp came off a trailer on the freeway, covered the front of the car and ripped the antenna off, busted a mirror and pulled some trim off the luggage rack up top. At least he didn’t freak out and cause an accident!)
At this point, it’s a drive it till it pukes throwaway vehicle. Although it would make a great donor for a LS powered AWD C10!!!! Lol

 

[SirRobyn0]

I'm a little late to the party but here is my take.

Mileage is unlike to have been tampered with. It's possible to write the mileage to a new BCM, but you need to have the right software to do it. Basically only going to be done at the dealer, or someone that spends a lot of money to do it.

Yes, on changing the intake gaskets and getting the updated valve cover. I would do those and see where you are at, after that. Plus while you have it open you'll be able to tell if it really has had it's oil changes done on time or if it's been neglected.

If it's still using oil after that I wouldn't go thicker, I would stick with whatever it calls for 5W30 I think. And add a 1/2 quart of hyperlube oil stabilizer, the thick sticky stuff, or the lucas version. Even if the valves or rings are shot that bit of sticky stuff will perform better than switching to 20W50, or at least that has been my experience. You probably aren't seeing or smelling oil burning because the cat is cleaning it up. Since oil brand has been brought up I really don't think it much matters as long as it gets changed on time.