OEM Starter options?

[SquareRoot]

My less than 3 year old Optima bit the dust. I will be replacing it this weekend with anything but Optima but that's not my question here. When I bought the truck, it had a new GM crate 350. The PO had put an aftermarket intake on it and it leaked oil from the back rail. It was bad enough, the oil got into the starter. I took it apart and cleaned it but I still get the occasional "clunk" no spin thing when I turn the key. I'm just gonna replace it and move on. However, didn't the newer trucks have a factory "hi torque" starter that is smaller overall, similar to the aftermarket?

What years would these be and would they bolt right in with a 153 tooth flywheel?

Thanks ya'll!

 

[mcarlo86]

I replaced the starter on our '90 Suburban with one from a 96+ Vortec 350. They are the smaller, high torque starter and it was a direct bolt in. Works great.

 

[SquareRoot]

I replaced the starter on our '90 Suburban with one from a 96+ Vortec 350. They are the smaller, high torque starter and it was a direct bolt in. Works great.

Thank you.

 

[squaredeal91]

My scout has a 350 and i put on a high torque starter and i love it. It fits better with headers and it's super quiet. Only downside is they don't last quite as long in my opinion.

 

[bucket]

My less than 3 year old Optima bit the dust. I will be replacing it this weekend with anything but Optima but that's not my question here. When I bought the truck, it had a new GM crate 350. The PO had put an aftermarket intake on it and it leaked oil from the back rail. It was bad enough, the oil got into the starter. I took it apart and cleaned it but I still get the occasional "clunk" no spin thing when I turn the key. I'm just gonna replace it and move on. However, didn't the newer trucks have a factory "hi torque" starter that is smaller overall, similar to the aftermarket?

What years would these be and would they bolt right in with a 153 tooth flywheel?

Thanks ya'll!

You have a 153 tooth? If so, you'll need a starter for an LT1 Camaro/Firebird.

 

[SquareRoot]

You have a 153 tooth? If so, you'll need a starter for an LT1 Camaro/Firebird.

Dammit bucket, now you got me questioning that statement! Maybe I assumed that in my head because I have an 11 inch clutch. Maybe tooth count and clutch diameter are not even related? Isn't there a way to tell based on the mounting bolt configuration?

 

[TJ1978]

Most mini torque starters come with angled and straight bolt holes for the mounting. And can be rotated to move solenoid away from headers or other such things

 

[bluex]

Also if you use the 96+ starter you'll need the matching bolts. They are shorter than the ones for the factory squarebody starter. It's well worth going to that starter though, you get a better starter, thats smaller but puts out more ummph an is available at nearly any parts store. Much better option than an aftermarket mini starter imo.

 

[bluex]

Dammit bucket, now you got me questioning that statement! Maybe I assumed that in my head because I have an 11 inch clutch. Maybe tooth count and clutch diameter are not even related? Isn't there a way to tell based on the mounting bolt configuration?

A quick look at the mounting bolts should tell you. 168 is staggered, 153 straight across from each other.

 

[SquareRoot]

OK, so I'm 99% sure its the staggered 168 tooth. I see the difference in the starters now after some research. Direct Drive versus gear reduction, permanent magnet.
Looks like to going rate at the local parts store is $190-200 range. At least on their websites (AutoZone & O Reilly). However, RockAuto is less than half that, $75-80 range? That's comparing similar "new" products. Hard to believe there's that much difference.

 

[Snoots]

Plenty of 'em for cheeper in the boneyard!

 

[squaredeal91]

Just found my recipe and March 5th last year I bought autozone reman starter for our 99 suburban and it was the high torque. It was 89.99 and core of 25.00 I don't imagine its gone up too terribly much more since then.

 

[SquareRoot]

Just found my recipe and March 5th last year I bought autozone reman starter for our 99 suburban and it was the high torque. It was 89.99 and core of 25.00 I don't imagine its gone up too terribly much more since then.

Cool, thanks. I think the prices they show online are more than they are when you get to the store. I'm gonna stop by and inquire here shortly after quittin time.

 

[Rustisbest]

The Vortec/gear reduction/mini starter is worth it in weight savings alone. So much easier to replace and not have to wrestle the heavy direct drive stocker up in there while trying to get the bolts started.

 

[bluex]

OK, so I'm 99% sure its the staggered 168 tooth. I see the difference in the starters now after some research. Direct Drive versus gear reduction, permanent magnet.
Looks like to going rate at the local parts store is $190-200 range. At least on their websites (AutoZone & O Reilly). However, RockAuto is less than half that, $75-80 range? That's comparing similar "new" products. Hard to believe there's that much difference.

Rock auto is the place to go if you're not in a hurry. I have this code that's good through the 16th for 5% off too. 232013371208366575

Advance has a 20% code this weekend if you order online for store pickup. I'll do that if it's something I can't wait on. It's usually 15% everyday but they are doing a special for the holiday.

The downside to RA is if you get a dud or a warranty issue then you gotta deal with shipping an all that nonsense. In over 10 yrs I've never warranty anything out with them but they will ship a replacement out as soon as you turn a damaged part back over to the shipper when they provide the label. I always looked at it as I can just buy another one if I need to an I'll still be cheaper than the LAP. I'm picky about what I buy from them though an it's never the cheapest option.