No accessories power

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legopnuematic

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I think @Snoots has got it, when you turn the key to Start or run position it pulls on the switch (rod moves up towards driver), so accessories position pushed rod away from driver.

Easy to get confused laying upside down under the dash trying to think that through… DAMHIK
 

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It's located near the bottom of the steering column.
There are 2 screws holding it there.
Loosen them (don't remove) and you can move the switch.
I'm guessing here but I'm thinking you'll have to move it towards the steering wheel.

Turn your radio on and turn your ignition to the ACC position.
When the radio comes on, You've found the spot. Tighten the screws and enjoy.
^^^^ Basically this

There may be a bit of a compromise on the best position for the ignition switch. When its perfect each key position should work accordingly and the key should snap back to "Run" after cranking. It may take some trial and error to get it perfect.

I'll add, do not attempt to bend or alter the ignition switch rod that comes from the lock cylinder.

These switches do wear out also, the contact points inside the switch may get dead spots in them.
 

Dukester68

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^^^^ Basically this

There may be a bit of a compromise on the best position for the ignition switch. When its perfect each key position should work accordingly and the key should snap back to "Run" after cranking. It may take some trial and error to get it perfect.

I'll add, do not attempt to bend or alter the ignition switch rod that comes from the lock cylinder.

These switches do wear out also, the contact points inside the switch may get dead spots in them.
I located this switch however the only adjustment i found was the hi lo beam switch. None in the ignition but i did use bent needle nose to gently force the rod back about an 1/8 of an inch and the accessories did come on. Im thinking my problem is in the gear off of the switch?? Im going into the column today. Thx
 

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I located this switch however the only adjustment i found was the hi lo beam switch. None in the ignition but i did use bent needle nose to gently force the rod back about an 1/8 of an inch and the accessories did come on. Im thinking my problem is in the gear off of the switch?? Im going into the column today. Thx
There should be 2 screws holding the switch to the column, the holes in the switch are slotted allowing for about 1/4” or so of adjustment. These screws are hard to get to and usually are removed/loosened by feel.

If the adjustment does nothing either the switch is worn out or the ignition rod assembly is probably broken. The rack which gets driven by a gear attached to the key cylinder is a common break.
 

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There should be 2 screws holding the switch to the column, the holes in the switch are slotted allowing for about 1/4” or so of adjustment. These screws are hard to get to and usually are removed/loosened by feel.

If the adjustment does nothing either the switch is worn out or the ignition rod assembly is probably broken. The rack which gets driven by a gear attached to the key cylinder is a common break.
Yes you are correct!!! I went back in because i tore into tge steering column and got no happiness there. I did adjust it to where i got the accessory power but then the ignition switch didn’t work. I went back and forth and finally figured i need a switch…. Do you think that will help my situation? Tgank you again for you expertise in this area. Im learning alot. Lol
 

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Yes you are correct!!! I went back in because i tore into tge steering column and got no happiness there. I did adjust it to where i got the accessory power but then the ignition switch didn’t work. I went back and forth and finally figured i need a switch…. Do you think that will help my situation? Tgank you again for you expertise in this area. Im learning alot. Lol
Couldn’t hurt…

New switches aren’t terribly expensive and you’re probably due for one.
 

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If you can feel the detents in the switch and everything works as it should in the different detent positions,my money is on the ignition rack is cracked or the rod is bent. Easy to check,pull the switch off but leave the wires attached run the switch through its positions,I use a small screwdriver to slide the switch from position to position.
 

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If you can feel the detents in the switch and everything works as it should in the different detent positions,my money is on the ignition rack is cracked or the rod is bent. Easy to check,pull the switch off but leave the wires attached run the switch through its positions,I use a small screwdriver to slide the switch from position to position.
Man i got into that column today and that was a job. I got as far as pulling the turn signal harness as far as i could and realized it was going to be a job. How in the world do you get enough slack to pull that column? I pulled the plug apart that the signal wires were attached to and it didn’t help much. Lol. I lubed everything up and pit it back together but had to take it apart again because although i had achieved what i wanted when adjusting for accessories power, it wouldn’t pull the rod for starting. You are probably right though…. Probably the gear rack is missing a tooth or two.
 

Ricko1966

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Man i got into that column today and that was a job. I got as far as pulling the turn signal harness as far as i could and realized it was going to be a job. How in the world do you get enough slack to pull that column? I pulled the plug apart that the signal wires were attached to and it didn’t help much. Lol. I lubed everything up and pit it back together but had to take it apart again because although i had achieved what i wanted when adjusting for accessories power, it wouldn’t pull the rod for starting. You are probably right though…. Probably the gear rack is missing a tooth or two.
Let's get back to your ignition switch,unbolt it from the side of the column without removing the column and without disassembling the column. Just unbolt the electrical part of the switch from the column. Cycle the switch through all its positions. Do you feel the detents? Does everything work as it should in all the different detent positions?
 
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Dukester68

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Let's get back to your ignition switch,unbolt it from the side of the column without removing the column and without disassembling the column. Just unbolt the electrical part of the switch from the column. Cycle the switch through all its positions. Do you feel the detents? Does everything work as it should in all the different detent positions?
Hey Ricko1966… when you say switch are you talking about the key switch or the switch at the end of the rod farther down the column. I am going back in there today as now it sticks a little when starting so i need to lube that a bit. I will check this. I will get back and thx for your help!
 

Ricko1966

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Hey Ricko1966… when you say switch are you talking about the key switch or the switch at the end of the rod farther down the column. I am going back in there today as now it sticks a little when starting so i need to lube that a bit. I will check this. I will get back and thx for your help!
The electrical portion down by the pedals
 

Craig Nedrow

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Pics First is off position, second is power on, next position on second pic going left would be start. On my 73 K10. I use that little screwdriver to start this truck, been that way for years, don't drive it on the road much, 100,000 miles of huntin and rocky hills have wore out the ball joints. And Nobody is gonna steal this thing!!
 

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CalSgt

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Man i got into that column today and that was a job. I got as far as pulling the turn signal harness as far as i could and realized it was going to be a job. How in the world do you get enough slack to pull that column? I pulled the plug apart that the signal wires were attached to and it didn’t help much. Lol. I lubed everything up and pit it back together but had to take it apart again because although i had achieved what i wanted when adjusting for accessories power, it wouldn’t pull the rod for starting. You are probably right though…. Probably the gear rack is missing a tooth or two.
Once you've completed @Ricko1966 suggestion...


This is the most common break on the rack, if you end up taking the column down this far plan for a difficult task.

To get slack in the turn signal wires If your turn signal switch doesn't need to be replaced:
1) Unplug the connector on the column under the dash
2) Record where each color wire goes into the connector (I like to take pictures)
3) De-pin the wires from their connector plug (there's a little barb on each pin in the connector that will release the wire)
4) Tie and/ or tape a string or another piece of wire to your wire bundle
5) unscrew the turn lever and hazard flasher knob
6) unscrew the turn signal switch
7) Pull the switch out as far as needed (make sure not to pull the string from step #4 so far that you cant grab it)

Re-assembly: Use the string to pull the wiring back in place, re-pin and reconnect everything in reverse order.

If you are replacing the existing switch with a new one - cut the wiring close to the switch and use the old wiring to pull the new harness through the column.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

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