New Member Here

[Grit dog]

@kalger
Nice truck! I’m glad you found the unhooked wire.
No one mentioned it but your truck looks like a 3/4 ton not a half ton like you’ve posted.
The rusted bed floor is unfortunate especially considering how clean the rest of the truck looks.
Good news, junk beds with good floors are fairly plentiful for the budget repair. Cut a chunk and weld a chunk, or replace the whole floor with a used one.
Other good news, while it’s a big job, the whole bed un bolts into 6 pieces save for couple little welds in the back.

Cost wise you can buy a front half replacement floor that you’d have to weld across the middle for about $250. I’d do this before disassembling an old bed unless it was free (and you learn how to take the junk one apart before doing yours). You could do this front half replacement. short of welding it back, with hand tools and a grinder. And less labor than doing a legit patch in 2 places. IMO
A whole bottom piece is almost $1000.
The front and wheel wells look fine.

 

[kalger]

@Grit dog

All of the documentation I have and the VIN indicate it's a 1/2 ton.

That's what I'm leaning toward for the bed. I'll need to start searching for a replacement and either learn how to weld or find someone local to do that work. If you have any leads for a replacement bed here in the Pacific Northwest, I'd be open to exploring them.

There are a few other rusted-out spots in the doors and fenders that will need some attention as well.

After going through the engine gasket replacement, the bodywork projects will have to wait for the "truck money fund" to get built up a bit.

 

[kalger]

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Driver's rear panel

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Driver's front fender

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Passenger side door

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Passenger side rear panel



Here's the rest of the visible rusted-out spots, @Grit dog. Overall not horrible, but still needs some attention. Not sure if that front fender is worth saving with a patch or just replacing it all.

 

[Grit dog]

All of that is easily patchable. It appears.
Easy being relative, but unless you’re getting a new bed or bed sides then you’re patching those and the front fenders are basically the same process.
If you had 1 rusted fender and a source for a clean OE used fender, I’d say replace it before paint.
If you have 6 or 9 places that are rotted out, you’re either buying a whole new body or learn to cut and weld. And if any of it is in that otherwise clean looking cab, then you’re patching anyway and a good place to practice like on floor pans and rocker panels.

 

[Corvette Ed]

Welcome aboard from East Tennessee.

 

[Mr Clean]

The bed floor is a easy fix. Buy a good 110 welder and do it yourself. Don't forget a good grinder also.. LOL. I have been teaching myself to weld for a couple of years now. I'm not going to win any welding trophies, but I can make two pieces of metal stick together.

 

[kalger]

@Mr Clean, thanks for that. That's the direction I think I'm going to head, but it's good to hear that it's an "easy fix."

Any recommendations on a 110 Welder? (Flame wars start now, I suppose.)

 

[Mr Clean]

@Mr Clean, thanks for that. That's the direction I think I'm going to head, but it's good to hear that it's an "easy fix."

Any recommendations on a 110 Welder? (Flame wars start now, I suppose.)

I have a Hobart. It has been a good welder for what I need it for. Miller makes a great one also. I have heard great things about Esab. There are guys on here that have bought one from Harbor Freight and has worked well for them. It really depends on how much you want to spend. My suggestion would be, get one that has a gas hook up. I have used non shielded wire. It works but there is a lot of clean up. There is more cost up front to go with a gas set up, IMO it is well worth it. If you have any more question please don't hesitate to ask.

 

[Finkaire]

Nice, on the right track. Rustoleum and carpet, just cover it, liner?