New key tumbler, now no start

[5akman]

Replaced the tumbler on my 1980 K20 and now I don't get any response from my starter. I hear the electric fuel pump wind up but when i turn the key the fuel pump stops and I get nothing from the starter either. Any ideas?

 

[Cuba]

Are you sure the tumbler is fully seated? You say you hear the fuel pump whine? When is that if when you turn the key it stops?

 

[5akman]

Are you sure the tumbler is fully seated? You say you hear the fuel pump whine? When is that if when you turn the key it stops?

The pump stops when i turn the key from the Acc position to the Start position. With this situation in mind, does it sound like it could be a blown fuse or fuse-able link? guess I need to get under the dash and hood with my test light....

 

[Cuba]

Ahh. OK that's normal. Start is strictly for cranking and once key comes back to run, it'll come back on. It's possible it's a fuse... but I'm quite sure this particular system (starter) has no fuse, only fusible link. I don't think that's your problem either, even tho I'm not there. On TOP of the steering column is your ignition switch... way under dash, midway to brake pedal. There is a rod that shifts which position the ignition switch is, and it's directly connected to the tumbler tip. What I suggest is feel for how this rod moves... which I think is down to start... each click i's the different position, with the last one being spring loaded for cranking. See if you can "help" this rod go a little further.
Should start or at least crank.

 

[5akman]

Ahh. OK that's normal. Start is strictly for cranking and once key comes back to run, it'll come back on. It's possible it's a fuse... but I'm quite sure this particular system (starter) has no fuse, only fusible link. I don't think that's your problem either, even tho I'm not there. On TOP of the steering column is your ignition switch... way under dash, midway to brake pedal. There is a rod that shifts which position the ignition switch is, and it's directly connected to the tumbler tip. What I suggest is feel for how this rod moves... which I think is down to start... each click i's the different position, with the last one being spring loaded for cranking. See if you can "help" this rod go a little further.
Should start or at least crank.

Great info, turns out its the rod not moving far enough to activate the circuit. Works great with a pair of needle nose pliers helping it along!

 

[bucket]

Great info, turns out its the rod not moving far enough to activate the circuit. Works great with a pair of needle nose pliers helping it along!

The mounting holes for the ignition switch are slotted so you can adjust it in releation to the rod.

 

[5akman]

The mounting holes for the ignition switch are slotted so you can adjust it in releation to the rod.

Yes, just moved it down towards the firewall about 1/8" and it works just fine now. Not sure what happened between cranking it over one day doing a compression test and then putting the plugs back in and then having this issue. Anyway, its fixed, thanks for the info.