New crate engine oil priming/ ignition timing impact if the distributor is mis-installed

[BlazerBill]

I’ll be installing a new GM crate 350 into my ‘83 Blazer soon. While the engine is on the stand, I’ll need to pull the distributor to prime the oil system. I’ve not done this before although I’ve watched videos of the process. I’m just curious how the engine will operate in the truck if I don’t get the distributor reinstalled in the same position. Will I be able to correct the timing with just turning the cap after the engine is installed and running or will I need to pull the distributor back out and reposition it? Is there a different way to oil prime the engine that doesn’t require pulling the distributor? Thanks!

 

[fast 99]

Easiest way is driving oil pump through distributor hole. There are tools made or can modify old distributor.

Engine doesn't care where the distributor is positioned as long as the firing order and timing are correct. That being said putting it in correctly isn't hard.

With engine on top dead center [#1 firing] install distributor with rotor pointed at #1 distributor cap tower. May not drop all the way and require turning oil pump shaft to line up with slot in distributor. Advance unit will be on the passenger side. #1 tower should be positioned in the front to right [passenger side] of center.

 

[85K304SPD]

Make sure that you are at TDC on the #1 piston and the timing mark on 0. Mark the housing and the block and mark where the rotor is pointing before you pull it out and after you pull it out. Look down the hole and note the position of the slot on pump drive. After you prime the motor, just do all of that in reverse order. The engine doesnt care where #1 is, but plug wires might not reach if not in correct position. You want the distributor to be straight across the top when the timing is set. If its too far off after you get it running, you can always pull it back out and turn the pump drive back or forward with a long screwdriver and re install it so that it is straight across. It may take several times of taking it in and out before you get it to seat all the way down, engaged in the pump drive, straight across.

 

[Ricko1966]

Here',s the best advice I can give you.Before you pull the distributor turn the engine,by hand until the rotor is pointing straight back,if it was in the car it would be pointing straight at the firewall. Now take a nail set,scribe what ever and make a match mark on the distributor base and intake manifold. When you go back together point the rotor straight back and line up your match marks. I always point the rotor at the firewall before I pull it. I can come back in 20 years and still stab the distributor first try.. pay attention to the oil pump drive position you may have to reach in with a screw driver and rotate it..

 

[Bennyt]

All of the above is great advice and I always just point the rotor straight back and use a sharpie to mark...

To answer your question about if there is another way..there is and that is with a pressurized pre-luber. You can install temprarily or buy a system that pressurizes the oil system before you crank everytime. While its been awhile I used to use them on the dyno and we would even pre-heat the oil to protect the engines more and get the engines up to operating temperature quicker for less wear.

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[SirRobyn0]

All good advise and priming the pump though the distributor hole is the standard way.

Getting the timing right on the first try is really great and you have been given good advise on that, but I also want to say that if you mess it up and it either back fires or refuses to start the engine isn't going to turn into a pumpkin. Just take the time to figure out what went wrong and try a second time.

Don't forget to break the camshaft in the way the manufacture recommends!

 

[fast 99]

If distributor and intake are original most of the time there is a chisel mark across the parting line. Align those marks timing will be very close. It is on the rear.

 

[chevytech87]

All of the above is great advice and I always just point the rotor straight back and use a sharpie to mark...

To answer your question about if there is another way..there is and that is with a pressurized pre-luber. You can install temprarily or buy a system that pressurizes the oil system before you crank everytime. While its been awhile I used to use them on the dyno and we would even pre-heat the oil to protect the engines more and get the engines up to operating temperature quicker for less wear.

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Used one of these for my 383 I just installed, can confirm it works quite well. Shop bought one and we’ve never had the chance to use it, figured I’d try it out.

 

[BlazerBill]

Great advice! Thank you all so much!

 

[75gmck25]

Does your new engine have a a flat tappet cam or a roller cam? Flat tappet cams require break-in, and if you have never done it before it can make you very uncomfortable.
Standing next to an engine that is running at 2500 rpm for 20 minutes to break in the cam is really noisy, and it feels like there is a risk that you could break something. However, it has to be done.

Also, if you haven’t got the distributor in the right position and the fuel flowing properly, it may be hard to start the engine. If it takes a while to find and correct your error it will cause you even more stress. Did I just screw up my brand new cam because the engine wouldn’t start right away? (Probably not.)

 

[RanchWelder]

These work well using a drill...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/arp-130-8802

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Less expensive version:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/sum-901015

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It is excellent for aligning the shaft for distributor timing too.

Saved me from fighting the drive gear...

 

[sidschev]

WHY would you need to prime a new engine ???? it should have assembly lube on everything so lube at startup would be a non issue...

 

[justhorns]

WHY would you need to prime a new engine ???? it should have assembly lube on everything so lube at startup would be a non issue...

Because it’s easy. Just make sure on any new engine start that you immediately have oil pressure. No gauge? Don’t do it!

 

[ali_c20]

I prime it to check if I have oil pressure, no matter if roller or flat tapped cam. No oil pressure no bueno.
When I have to pull the distributor I set the engine on tdc, then rotate it to the desired degree mark on the balancer and put the distributor back in with the finger aligned to #1 contact. If your balancer doesn't have degree marks you can measure the circumference and calculate the distance. Works great and no more worries about timing being far off.

 

[GTX63]

I don't know if your supplier provided you with instructions prior to start up, but I would advise you to use a quality oil, not any off the shelf 10W30.
If anything, use at least an additive designed for older motors and break ins; something with an elevated level of ZDDP. Amsoil Z Rod, Castrol Hi Mileage Classic are two that come to mind, or Lucas Hot Rod & Classic.