New Air Compressor

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Ricko1966

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Imo unless you need the extra psi’s it’s about the cfms
The reason for the 2 stage is the higher pressure means more air in a smaller space,just like when I use ungodly high pressure co2 regulated down to 90psi 1 tank lasts a crazy amount of time whereas if I had the same size tank at 90psi it would be empty in seconds. I didn't know how to post this so it linked to everyone wondering about 2stage. I like, it its the (fill in the blank)!
 

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I picked up a couple of Husky 7hp 60gal an CL several years ago for $200ea. One for the shop and one for the garage. Much quieter and more useful than the oilless Craftsman I had for years.
 

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Tractor Supply sells brands mentioned here. I had a Dewalt that I loved. I have a small Porter-Cable now, cast iron oil pumps are friendly
 

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Tractor Supply sells brands mentioned here. I had a Dewalt that I loved. I have a small Porter-Cable now, cast iron oil pumps are friendly
Thats where I was looking at the IR and Mega. They have a few DeWalts actually in stock but nothing else. There was a 60 gal DeWalt for $899. I notice most all of the brands, except the IR, Mega and much higher end DeWalts is they have the smaller 2.5 - 3.5 HP motors. Home Depot has the Mega for $1699 - Tractor Supply has it for $1099. Sounds almost like too much of a difference to be the same thing / quality level.
 

Doppleganger

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I've had my 60gal Quincy for several years now and I still love it. It's been maybe 8 years now? American made (not just assembled), 2 stage, good CFM and pretty quiet too. Even doing bodywork, it has no trouble keeping up. A compressor that isn't overworked will last much longer, imho.
Did you ever paint a car/truck with it? I can do the primer with my 30gal - maybe inside the cab - but know it cant keep up with 17+ ft passes for metallic paint.

60gal looks good - my wife will ask me if I will ever want or need to upgrade that to an 80. If the answer has any part or hint of a 'yes' in it, then she'll say get that one and dont ever buy another. lol
 

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Did you ever paint a car/truck with it? I can do the primer with my 30gal - maybe inside the cab - but know it cant keep up with 17+ ft passes for metallic paint.

60gal looks good - my wife will ask me if I will ever want or need to upgrade that to an 80. If the answer has any part or hint of a 'yes' in it, then she'll say get that one and dont ever buy another. lol

No full vehicles yet, but there is not a doubt in my mind about it keeping up. It performs well.
 

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@Doppleganger ,how long does it have to last? This is the question I ask every time I buy something. In my case a 10-15 year life will probably put me either in the ground or unable to do very much........I keep telling you guys ...I'm OLD
 

Doppleganger

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I ended up spending more on two refrigerated air dryers (one for each stage) than I did on the compressor, but my air tools and blast cabinet appreciate the lack of moisture and will live much longer lives.
Can you elaborate on the 'refrigerated air dryers for each stage'? Never heard of it but it sounds awesome. A friend of mine who runs a machine shop has had an awful time with water in his air lines. A customer of his told him to get the accumulator from a semi to dry it out. ?!

THX
 

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Can you elaborate on the 'refrigerated air dryers for each stage'? Never heard of it but it sounds awesome. A friend of mine who runs a machine shop has had an awful time with water in his air lines. A customer of his told him to get the accumulator from a semi to dry it out. ?!

THX
I made a dryer for paint work a coil of copper tubing in a 5 gallon bucket,fill with ice water with a water separator on the out let side of the tubing coil.
 

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Can you elaborate on the 'refrigerated air dryers for each stage'?

I made a dryer for paint work a coil of copper tubing in a 5 gallon bucket,fill with ice water with a water separator on the out let side of the tubing coil.
Starting with the basics, air naturally contains moisture (humidity), and compressing the air squeezes out that moisture. Besides collecting in the compressor's tank, it migrates its way through the lines to your work area. Cooling the air condenses the moisture so it can be collected before it gets to your storage tank. The outlet temps I've registered at my compressor's head are above 200 degrees, and each 20 degrees the air is cooled drops out 50% of the entrained moisture.

Ricko's solution works. If you have enough copper line and keep it cold enough, much of the moisture will condense and drop out with a provided gravity path. I run my compressor for extended periods of time and the heated copper would melt the ice way too quickly for my needs. I went overboard in my quest for dry air, beyond the needs of most garages.

I originally bought two Pneumatech refrigerated coolers from Craigslist. Thinking one would be enough, I sold the second one for more than I paid for the pair, so I got one for free. I later decided that I wanted MORE cooling and added a second unit I got from Harbor Freight. Installation was just a matter of removing the compressor's external plumbing and running the first-stage exit port to the top cooler, back to the second-stage intake, then the second-stage exits to the Pneumatch and back to the storage tank.

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Figuring any moisture that managed to get beyond the coolers would collect in the tank, I added a self-actuating drain valve to the bottom of the tank. I also added a spit valve to the inside of each cooler so no maintenance is required, they spit each time the compressor shuts off. A coffee can collects the drainage and evaporates into the air.

You must be registered for see images attach


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Since my compressor sits in a small hallway off the garage, there isn't a lot of air flow and the coolers were operating at temps above recommendations. I added a couple of fans that are wired directly to the compressor motor and kick on whenever the compressor does. The bottom one is a repurposed house fan and the top one is a puller from a commercial refrigeration unit that was being scrapped. Total cost = zero.

You must be registered for see images attach


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My final bit of overkill was adding a couple of conventional air dryers between the tank and hose reel. The bottom one is a membrane filter, and the one above it is a desiccant filter that collects any moisture or particulates coming from the tank. Probably wasn't necessary but I kinda got wrapped up in the details. I've been running this setup for over ten years and it works really well.

You must be registered for see images attach
 

rusted nuts

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@Doppleganger ,how long does it have to last? This is the question I ask every time I buy something. In my case a 10-15 year life will probably put me either in the ground or unable to do very much........I keep telling you guys ...I'm OLD
Yeah, I stopped buying lifetime tools while back. No cents buying top of the line tools for someone else.
 

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Doppleganger

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Starting with the basics, air naturally contains moisture (humidity), and compressing the air squeezes out that moisture. Besides collecting in the compressor's tank, it migrates its way through the lines to your work area. Cooling the air condenses the moisture so it can be collected before it gets to your storage tank. The outlet temps I've registered at my compressor's head are above 200 degrees, and each 20 degrees the air is cooled drops out 50% of the entrained moisture.

Ricko's solution works. If you have enough copper line and keep it cold enough, much of the moisture will condense and drop out with a provided gravity path. I run my compressor for extended periods of time and the heated copper would melt the ice way too quickly for my needs. I went overboard in my quest for dry air, beyond the needs of most garages.

I originally bought two Pneumatech refrigerated coolers from Craigslist. Thinking one would be enough, I sold the second one for more than I paid for the pair, so I got one for free. I later decided that I wanted MORE cooling and added a second unit I got from Harbor Freight. Installation was just a matter of removing the compressor's external plumbing and running the first-stage exit port to the top cooler, back to the second-stage intake, then the second-stage exits to the Pneumatch and back to the storage tank.

You must be registered for see images attach


Figuring any moisture that managed to get beyond the coolers would collect in the tank, I added a self-actuating drain valve to the bottom of the tank. I also added a spit valve to the inside of each cooler so no maintenance is required, they spit each time the compressor shuts off. A coffee can collects the drainage and evaporates into the air.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


Since my compressor sits in a small hallway off the garage, there isn't a lot of air flow and the coolers were operating at temps above recommendations. I added a couple of fans that are wired directly to the compressor motor and kick on whenever the compressor does. The bottom one is a repurposed house fan and the top one is a puller from a commercial refrigeration unit that was being scrapped. Total cost = zero.

You must be registered for see images attach


You must be registered for see images attach


My final bit of overkill was adding a couple of conventional air dryers between the tank and hose reel. The bottom one is a membrane filter, and the one above it is a desiccant filter that collects any moisture or particulates coming from the tank. Probably wasn't necessary but I kinda got wrapped up in the details. I've been running this setup for over ten years and it works really well.

You must be registered for see images attach
Holy smokes. This info is gold. I need a neighbor like you. Thankyouverymuch. :hat:
 

skysurfer

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Holy smokes. This info is gold. I need a neighbor like you. Thankyouverymuch. :hat:
It’s funny you say that. My previous neighbors have all had going away parties when I moved. The parties were held AFTER I left.
 

MikeB

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My compressed air needs are much less than most of you guys. I bought a 40 gallon 3 hp Puma last year from a local compressor supply store that's been in business since the 1980s. It's a high quality, USA-built compressor, and I got to deal face-to-face with a guy who really knows his stuff. The experience was light years ahead of big box and on-line stores.

BTW, horsepower ratings were changed several years ago to be more realistic. Before that, I think manufacturers simply made them up! For example, many so-called 5 hp compressors ran on 120 volt / 15 amp circuits, which will actually support only around 2 hp!

One more thing: My Puma is the quietest compressor I've ever heard. Maybe it's due to the 2-cylinder "V" design. Their true 5 hp compressors are 3 cylinders, but I've never heard one run.
 
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idahovette

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It’s funny you say that. My previous neighbors have all had going away parties when I moved. The parties were held AFTER I left.
They just wanted to make sure you left.....lol
 

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