Need help finding info/parts for 'burb tailgate

[Salty Crusty]

My '83 Suburban has an issue with the opening mechanism on the tailgate. It opens fine but does not spring back into position, so it doesn't latch and stay latched. From the few parts illustrations I have seen, this is controlled by a torsion spring mounted on the rotating shaft of the mechanism. I don't need new rods, hangers, etc. that come with the kit - is it possible to buy just the rotating part that connects everything together and if so, where and how can I find it?
TIA for the help.

 

[rpcraft]

Well, You are right, there is a spring on the clock mechanism but the part that drives it up and down that comes off the cable is called a jack screw and that is usually what impedes the proper operation. The spring is there more to equalize for the weight of the glass rather than to push the window up or down. I have found the jack screws and they are usually stupidly expensive to replace and I question their quality even then. That being said I have I have also taken mine apart and cleaned it and re-greased it and found it to work much better so if you have the tools and time that is a free fix.

Alternatively I recently saw a post on a facebook group where some company was selling a direct drive motor and it works great from all reports but it is expensive AF. It is based off the gear driven power window motor from the front windows. The catch, is they command a premium price of around 350 to 450 dollars and I ain't about to spend that much money on the setup I saw. Looks like they are sticking it in your ass for creating a solution but I figure the motor was 29 bucks for a Dorman product and probably about 15 bucks worth of metal plate and drilling and welding together my own solution. I am working on it as a viable plug and play solution for anyone, and I think the most complicated thing will be finding a set of plugs that will allow me to give someone an adapter that plugs directly into your OEM wire harness. If you give me a couple of weeks to work on it and want to PM me your interest I'll be more than happy to share and discuss. My time is just a little limited because I travel with work so pretty much all I have time in the shop is Saturdays and I have to split it multiple ways for everyone in my life.

 

[Salty Crusty]

Thanks for the reply, but I'm not having trouble with the glass motor or regulator, it's the mechanism that's connected to and activates the latch rods for the tailgate.

 

[SDJunkMan]

I stripped out a tailgate from a 89 burb and should have most of the innards in a box somewhere, if you can post a pic of what you are looking for, I may have it.

 

[bucket]

Thanks for the reply, but I'm not having trouble with the glass motor or regulator, it's the mechanism that's connected to and activates the latch rods for the tailgate.

I don't remember what GM called that part, but "transmission" comes to mind.

That mechanism is adjustable for proper engagement. The adjustment bolt is reverse thread, so be careful with that. Also, the lever that the handle rod pushes on is often bent, giving less throw from the handle. Additionally, the handle mount can bend also, which causes the handle to stick out a bit and often a little crooked too.

Other than being bent, the biggest thing that goes wrong with the mechanism is they don't move freely enough. I've unseized some really stuck ones with penetrating oil and they actually still functioned well. One of the ones I bought from GM was also too tight, it needed broke in on the work bench before it worked in the truck.

And finally, the latches themselves may need a good bath in penetrating oil. If they start to get sticky, the rods don't fully retract, the pivot mechanism doesn't return fully, etc.

 

[bucket]

And one more tidbit. Burbs and K5's use the same pivot mechanism. And inside handle.

 

[Salty Crusty]

^thanks for that info!

Warmer weather today, hope to get it out and see what the hell is going on. Local boneyard has an '81 with what looks like the same setup and it works fine. I think I'd probably rather work with an original if it's not badly worn than aftermarket.

 

[bucket]

Imho, if there's a good working tailgate at the junkyard, I'd grab every last bit of hardware from inside the tailgate. It's all stuff that just continues to get harder to find when you need it.

 

[Salty Crusty]

Half price sale in the morning from 9 to 10, might have too grab a couple of wrenches and get the handle and this transmission mechanism.

 

[bucket]

The handle is held on with big Phillips screws. If you have an impact driver and a big Phillips bit, it may be very useful to bring with you.

 

[Salty Crusty]

^ Nothing wanted to break loose.

For anyone wondering what their next Milwaukee Fuel 18V purchase should be, I highly recommend the HackZall. One handed sawzall. About 5 minutes and it was out. I used it last week to cut complete fender openings along with inner fenders from a '91 Suburban. Perfect condition, $12.37 for the pair. $8 for the chunk I cut out of the tailgate.

 

[Powerhouse Ranch]

LMC truck and Brothers are both excellent Square Body parts companies, both worth a look

 

[rt66paul]

I would find out what the whole tailgate costs at the "pull yer part" yard. It may be very close to tearing it down and only taking what you think you need. I has been my experience that I end up breaking(or loosing) something while I have it all apart.
That way, you can be sure and have the parts in case you need them or to trade with others.

 

[Salty Crusty]

Springs are on the latches and pull-rod connectors. Once I got everything lubed up good, it started working. Kinda.
There's a lot of wear in the latches, I'll snag the set that were on the tailgate I cut up and use them.