Need advice for doing Kilmat/Boomat/Dynomat

[C10SLEY]

Sup everyone!

I’m wanting to get my interior more quiet and comfortable by doing Kilmat and carpet w mass backing.
I also might want to remove my cab one day and do a full resto on my truck and repaint the dash and all.
Lastly, my truck has a little rust in the typical areas of the rockers and down by the kick panels.
My question: would placing Kilmat on the floor after I POR15 it affect the process of paint n body of the cab? I’m not gunna run it over the rust or to the edges of the cab to leave room for future rust repairs.

Thanks

 

[Finkaire]

FYI for less $ and great results

 

[CalSgt]

If you think you'll pull the cab & restore it you could always scrape up the sound dampening to accommodate repairs if needed. Supposedly a few chunks of dry ice can be used to make the butyl brittle & loose its stick so it can be peeled up.

I just did my whole cab in Killmat but from what I've read there isn't much gain with more than like 60% coverage. You could do a big piece or two on each footwell, some on the trans tunnel, a few in the doors Etc. and it would make a big difference.

Note: Good sound dampening is made from butyl, cheaper alternatives are made from asphalt or other petroleum products. I've heard people complain the petrol smell lingers forever, & can come back every time it gets hot.

Killmat link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751CBXBT/

one 36 square foot box did almost the entire floor & back of the cab

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[C10SLEY]

If you think you'll pull the cab & restore it you could always scrape up the sound dampening to accommodate repairs if needed. Supposedly a few chunks of dry ice can be used to make the butyl brittle & loose its stick so it can be peeled up.

I just did my whole cab in Killmat but from what I've read there isn't much gain with more than like 60% coverage. You could do a big piece or two on each footwell, some on the trans tunnel, a few in the doors Etc. and it would make a big difference.

Note: Good sound dampening is made from butyl, cheaper alternatives are made from asphalt or other petroleum products. I've heard people complain the petrol smell lingers forever, & can come back every time it gets hot.

Killmat link:
https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0751CBXBT/

one 36 square foot box did almost the entire floor & back of the cab

You must be registered for see images attach

to be clear, you're saying that, based on what you've read, covering >60% of the cab may not make enough of a difference?
What you've described and shown is exactly what I'm planning to do - doors included to dampen the road/exhaust noise.

 

[CalSgt]

to be clear, you're saying that, based on what you've read, covering >60% of the cab may not make enough of a difference?
What you've described and shown is exactly what I'm planning to do - doors included to dampen the road/exhaust noise.

Yeah basically... The stuff is so expensive I watched a lot of videos and read every manufacturers info before I purchased.

The first 60-70% on the big panels does like 90% of the work so the rest only gets a tiny bit more results. I went all out on mine, inside doors, firewall, cowl, and on the lid.

I'm also using closed cell foam to decouple anything that can rattle.

 

[Grit dog]

@C10SLEY sounds like a good plan.
I didn’t take any pictures but did the same as @CalSgt except I didn’t do under the seat area as the OE insulation was still very serviceable nor did I do the back wall, yet.
The truck seems pretty quiet. Flowmaster 40s don’t sound loud in the cab. And the wind noise seems more prominent than road or engine noise. So I think it helped a bunch.
Got over half the box left.
One of these days I’ll clean up inside the doors and stick one big piece in each door. And maybe the back of the cab once I get to finishing that up and decide what I’m doing back there for mounting stereo amp and storage back there.

 

[Scott91370]

I wold wait until you are sure you're going to do repairs or not. Even with dry ice it's a lot of work getting it out.

I covered my entire floor up to the factory firewall insulation, rear wall, inside and cab side of both doors. It was pretty quiet (echo free) even before putting in the headliner, door panels, carpet and seats. I did add some foam to the headliner as well instead of kilmat to the roof. With the interior complete it is very quiet - not as quiet as my new F150 with the sound sheild windscreen and all but MUCH quieter than any other classic I've ever been in.

 

[C10SLEY]

Good info here. I plan to do most of the cab really thoroughly. Even if I have to remove some for repairs, it shouldn’t be much as there’s not much rust. N just cover the areas with Kilmat before paint removal.
The cab won’t be coming off for 5+ years and I don’t want to deal with hot internal temps or loud noises for that long.
Looking forward to a cozier ride and more consistent inside temps.

 

[waterpirate]

I used the stuff from jegs with great success. I found that a assortment of rollers and the heat gun also helped install. I agree with the 60% and you are done theory as well. A 2'x2' whack of that stuff in each door made the most significant impact out of all of it.
Eric

 

[C10SLEY]

I used the stuff from jegs with great success. I found that a assortment of rollers and the heat gun also helped install. I agree with the 60% and you are done theory as well. A 2'x2' whack of that stuff in each door made the most significant impact out of all of it.
Eric

In the Door or on the outside?

 

[waterpirate]

On the outside of course, I rode the short bus, lol
Eric

 

[C10SLEY]

On the outside of course, I rode the short bus, lol
Eric

Haha I just wondered if you meant where the glass goes or just on the outside. Not much surface area, but you can get creative and shake it around, I suppose.

 

[Originalthor]

Kill Matt is pretty cheap when it goes on sale. I did my floor and firewall. I also got to noico 10 mm stuff and did two layers on firewall and one on transmission hump for 200 bucks canadian.

And I will say once that stuff is on there good luck getting it off. I left a pretty big piece out so I could fix up my floor. Hence my red on hand spray paint over spray on what I had down before repairs

 

[waterpirate]

Haha I just wondered if you meant where the glass goes or just on the outside. Not much surface area, but you can get creative and shake it around, I suppose.

I being the dumb a$$ that I am installed the glass before the mat.... I fished a 2x2 piece up behind the glass on the outside of the door. Made a huge diferance in door sound and closure noise.
Eric

 

[C10SLEY]

I think imma be selective, not planning to remove, get some down to kill the noise, then when ready, I can repair whatever needed and finish the job.
Also, if I wanna remove the cab, I can tape the floor off. Nbd.