Need a inline fuel pump for Carbed 350, what brand/ part?

[boltbrain]

My mechanical new pump on my 79 with original 350 is not working out. I’ve read several comments on the unreliability of electric pumps so would like to know if there’s a good pump I could use. I’m planning on mounting it after the tank. Inside the rail. Also, it seems to me those pushrods might not come out? If they don’t can I just leave it in there, sitting where they sit? And do they make plates to bolt over the hole? Thanks much

 

[fast 99]

Get a Delco or Delphi pump. Been through bad pumps a couple years ago. Other than the 2 mentioned none I tried had a return spring. Arm stuck down. Picture is a Delphi pump.

Also, if the tank is dirty, it is possible for dirt to become lodged in the check valves inside the pump. A pre-filter may be necessary.

 

[boltbrain]

Thanks much

 

[Frankenchevy]

Also, double check the psi. Carb wants about 5.5 psi, much more than that your float assembly may not do its job. Many clickity clackity pumps are 12ish psi I believe. Long term, getting a regulator and inline pressure gauge is a good idea.

 

[boltbrain]

Just opened the picture. Thanks again but I’m looking for an electric. Altho I’d consider trying to install my mechanical one more time if it could be done easier. I’ve done it 3 times but haven’t been able to get the cam on tdc yet. I see the mark on the harmonic balancer but no indicator plate. Since the cam turns twice for every revolution of crank I’m assuming I need true TDC but the vids on YouTube aren’t saying how to get it. Thanks

 

[boltbrain]

Thanks Napa has one that’s 4-7

 

[Grit dog]

Just opened the picture. Thanks again but I’m looking for an electric. Altho I’d consider trying to install my mechanical one more time if it could be done easier. I’ve done it 3 times but haven’t been able to get the cam on tdc yet. I see the mark on the harmonic balancer but no indicator plate. Since the cam turns twice for every revolution of crank I’m assuming I need true TDC but the vids on YouTube aren’t saying how to get it. Thanks

I’m not following. Although it’s been about 30 years since I put a mechanical pump on a Chevy and about 15 since I stuffed one on my old Jeep but I don’t believe you need to find tdc. It’ll be easier if you rotate the motor until the lobe is opposite so you don’t have to hold as much of the pump spring pressure while installing the bolt.
Or did you get it installed but the cam lobe is worn and it’s not pumping?

If it’s anything but the latter, a mechanical pump is preferable and about a 1 beer job.
It is worth finding a real ACDelco pump though. Cheap junk is cheap junk and not necessarily reliable.

 

[Grit dog]

Don’t forget about the long bolt to hold the rod in place. Or grease or a hook if you know what you’re doing.

 

[Ricko1966]

@Grit dog has given you good advice. There is no special spot that the engine has to be in to install the pump. Now to do this you, will need a helper or a remote start switch. Disable the ignition by pulling the hot lead at the distributor cap.Take the fuel pump plate off the block.Now make sure you have the disabled the ignition I don't want you to get hurt. Now with one finger push in on the fuel pump pushrod.Have your friend crank the motor a couple of revolutions, you should feel the pushrod move in and out about a half an inch.If you felt movement bump the starter until the pushrod is in as far as possible. Take your finger out,grease the pushrod real good put it back in its hole and put the plate back on. Push the pushrod in with your finger .The grease should hold hold the pushrod up. Now put on your pump. If you did not feel that 1/2 inch movement than your fuel pump eccentric has worn off,and you will have to go electric.I'm going to stop right here,let us know if you are getting movement or not. If not I'll check back in and guide you from that point.

 

[1lejohn]

I bought a Jeg's brand Mech. pump. It cost about $50. It failed within a few weeks. I took it apart and it was defective. The pump arm moved off the diaphragm and carnage ensued. I bought an Edelbrock pump it was $120. Ouch! I' ve not had any problems since.

 

[SquareRoot]

Cam position has nothing to do with the pump. Got a hacksaw? Take the blade off. Use it to hold the push rod up with your left hand. Insert fuel pump with the end of the arm underneath the pump rod. Pull hacksaw blade out and start the bolts on the pump housing. Go back and forth between the two bolts and gently tighten the pump to the block. Easy Peasy. Forget electric pumps. They all suck unless they are mounted inside the tank. Carry on.

 

[boltbrain]

Thanks for the great tips. I have installed it three times now. First one I took off and exchanged for one with a return port. That one had the ports pointing towards the chassis rail making it impossible to connect the hoses, (3/8” not so flexible). So took it off, and turned them about 30 degrees with a torch. Got it back in, using the bolt to hold the rod, and visually noting it rising as I turned the crank with a socket on the pulley. Which required me getting up and back underneath about ten times. Didn’t use anything to hold it but the slight pressure from the 3/8 bolt. Capped the return temporarily. Ram great except the port to the carb, it’s inverted flare, was leaking. Not cross threaded. No amount of torque helped. By now it’s 5 degrees and with wind about 10 below zero and I need it running as my other trucks are out of commission too. My heated shop is occupied.
On YouTube a couple vids say setting the cam at tdc puts the lobe where the rod is up. But I hadn’t done that because I couldn’t find tdc. So that’s why I asked. It’s supposed to get to 40 three days, in a week, so I have time to find a AC Delco. Hopefully I can find one with two ports that point towards the front. If I had made a note of where that timing line on the balancer was the last time it would be easier this time. I don’t think I’ll put my finger in there while it turns over. But might use some kind of measuring stick. Thanks very much

 

[boltbrain]

Cam position has nothing to do with the pump. Got a hacksaw? Take the blade off. Use it to hold the push rod up with your left hand. Insert fuel pump with the end of the arm underneath the pump rod. Pull hacksaw blade out and start the bolts on the pump housing. Go back and forth between the two bolts and gently tighten the pump to the block. Easy Peasy. Forget electric pumps. They all suck unless they are mounted inside the tank. Carry on.

Do you know about that bolt in the block that’s 1” long? If you take it out you can put one of the pump bolts in that hole and finger tighten it to the pushrod. I tried the pushrod but it wasnt stiff enough. Maybe because the oil is so thick at 0 degrees.

 

[Ricko1966]

@boltbrain I didn't say stick your finger in there I said pull the plate so there isn't any in there,just an open hole,the pushrod is free to fall out of. Now again,you can push in on the pushrod and feel it's movement to verify that the lobe is not worn off. You can also feel when the pushrod is at its lowest point,on its low point the pump practically onstalls it self. But the reason I told you to do this was to check the lobe. If the lobe is worn off you can't put 100 mechanical pumps on it and it still won't work.

 

[boltbrain]

@boltbrain I didn't say stick your finger in there I said pull the plate so there isn't any in there,just an open hole,the pushrod is free to fall out of. Now again,you can push in on the pushrod and feel it's movement to verify that the lobe is not worn off. You can also feel when the pushrod is at its lowest point,on its low point the pump practically onstalls it self. But the reason I told you to do this was to check the lobe. If the lobe is worn off you can't put 100 mechanical pumps on it and it still won't work.

Thanks! I forgot there was that plate there. I’ll see how worn that cam is. Ordered a Delphi 3 line pump from Summit. Part #
DFP-MF 0002. 20 bucks