My teenager's first small block build

[Midnightmoon]

As I've mentioned in other threads here, I have a 16 year old daughter that just loves working with me on all things automotive. She was very hands on this year working on my Corvette, getting it ready for a trip to the track, etc. That project didn't really need too much and we have been actively looking for another project vehicle to build in the future together.

While we are looking for another vehicle, I am planning to start a fresh engine build with her over the winter in anticipation of eventually finding something to put it in. I have a line on a good 4 bolt main 350 block that I should be picking up tomorrow morning as a starting point. I already called the machine shop and will be dropping it off Monday to have it gone over and prepped.

Since this will be her first build, I am planning to keep it a traditional 350 build, carb, hydraulic cam, etc. We don't actually have an intended vehicle for it yet, so we will keep it pretty mild and pump gas friendly.

With that said, I would appreciate your thoughts and recommendations as this build progresses. If you all don't mind, I'd like to use this thread to document the progress and get input along the way.

Thanks in advance for your help.

 

[shiftpro]

If the crank needs regrinding... and if you intend to buy pistons, consider a 383 stroker kit.

 

[Midnightmoon]

We are going to start with a completely bare block. So, we will be buying everything. Could definitely consider a 383.

 

[DoubleDingo]

I did this very thing with Pop, my stepdad, back when I was 15. We had a good engine, and reused everything, but everything mic'd out so it was okay to reuse. It was a great experience. He showed me once how to do one thing, and then left me to do all the rest. If I messed up, he showed me what I did wrong, and had me do it again. That was a great engine. Installed it in my '56 Chevy 210 in May 1986. I drove the crap out of that car, cruising Main, cruising backroads, hauling a$$ on the highway, and then swapped the engine in my '65 C20, Mean Green in 1991. In 1996 I had Pop do a valve job on the heads. When we tore it down in 1985 we had to cut the ridge at the tops of the cylinders. I calculated the engine had 194,000 on it in 1996, and there was no ridge on any of the cylinder walls. While he was doing the heads I installed power steering. Whatever he did to the heads it had easily 20 more ponies. The first time I took it out, I was not used to the more snappy response and power steering. I took a 90* turn at a fence corner, goosed it, the a$$ end swung around quickly, and I was able to turn the wheel quickly to correct it. MAN THAT WAS FUN!

We still talk about building that engine today. Good memories.

You going with a bare block, your options are endless. You really need to pick a plan so you don't easily go astray.

 

[Midnightmoon]

I did this very thing with Pop, my stepdad, back when I was 15. We had a good engine, and reused everything, but everything mic'd out so it was okay to reuse. It was a great experience. He showed me once how to do one thing, and then left me to do all the rest. If I messed up, he showed me what I did wrong, and had me do it again. That was a great engine. Installed it in my '56 Chevy 210 in May 1986. I drove the crap out of that car, cruising Main, cruising backroads, hauling a$$ on the highway, and then swapped the engine in my '65 C20, Mean Green in 1991. In 1996 I had Pop do a valve job on the heads. When we tore it down in 1985 we had to cut the ridge at the tops of the cylinders. I calculated the engine had 194,000 on it in 1996, and there was no ridge on any of the cylinder walls. While he was doing the heads I installed power steering. Whatever he did to the heads it had easily 20 more ponies. The first time I took it out, I was not used to the more snappy response and power steering. I took a 90* turn at a fence corner, goosed it, the a$$ end swung around quickly, and I was able to turn the wheel quickly to correct it. MAN THAT WAS FUN!

We still talk about building that engine today. Good memories.

You going with a bare block, your options are endless. You really need to pick a plan so you don't easily go astray.

That's a great story. It is really cool that you developed such good memories from that experience. I'm hoping that my daughter does the same.

I agree on developing a plan from now. My daughter is already researching rotating assembly kits on places like Summit. I don't mind her looking at those and I haven't ruled anything out at this point. But, I found the block on Craigslist for a really good price. So, I'm hoping that she will continue to shop similar sites, eBay, etc. for good used parts along the way. I personally think that finding the parts is half the fun.

With that said, the price for new name brand internals isn't much more than the machine shop costs on turning a used crank for example. For those types of things, I will not mind if we go new.

 

[Grumpy]

I admire every family where the kids are as engaged in activities with the parents as the parents are with them. These are memories to treasure forever.
Myself, for a first build I would recommend a 350 and not a 383. The 383 build does have details such as checking for clearance around the oil pan rails (that is something not normally included in basic instructions.)
I would encourage many pictures AND note taking, particularly for all measurements and parts - this makes life easier in the future.
Unless you are willing to pay for the full meal-deal on machining, stay away from high-end fasteners such as ARP, as for this first build you wish to stay with a lower budget. For example, the use of ARP fasteners for the mains requires you to align bore the crankshaft bore.
Myself, I insist on ARP products for my own stuff, however I also budget way ahead of time for this.

 

[Midnightmoon]

Picked up the block this morning. Casting #3970010. ID from the stamp pad K0327TBF. I'm a little confused by the TBF suffix code. From what I am finding online, it could either be a '70 or '79. Not that it matters, but if anyone can tell me for sure, I would appreciate it. I am assuming that it is a '79 since most of the guys stuff was late '70's square parts.

But anyway, I'm happy with what the block looks like. The cylinders look great and there is nothing visually obvious to be concerned about. Hopefully it will turn out OK at the machine shop. I paid $150 for it as it sits.

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[Grumpy]

Picked up the block this morning. Casting #3970010. ID from the stamp pad K0327TBF. I'm a little confused by the TBF suffix code. From what I am finding online, it could either be a '70 or '79. Not that it matters, but if anyone can tell me for sure, I would appreciate it. I am assuming that it is a '79 since most of the guys stuff was late '70's square parts.

But anyway, I'm happy with what the block looks like. The cylinders look great and there is nothing visually obvious to be concerned about. Hopefully it will turn out OK at the machine shop. I paid $150 for it as it sits.

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The block is likely from a Chevrolet 4X4.
Before you send in for a hot tank and magnaflux, take a quick look at the bottom of the cylinder bores for signs of leaking. It is rare to see issues there, yet if there is such, then you don't need to spend extra money.
As for anyone else purchasing engine cores, I suggest staying away from Small Block Chevy engine cores made from 1981 to 1990 that were cast in Mexico. There were many, many bulletins regarding the casting being flawed in the lifter valley, with some blocks actually bursting inwards from pressure in the cooling system. GM made a heroic effort to find as many of these engines as possible, yet there will still be some out there - Target Master Engines were the majority of the culprits (these were the engines supplied complete with pan, intake and water pump for about half of the price you could rebuild one - we even had one we installed only to discover later it was assembled with no oil rings.)

 

[Doppleganger]

I'd sure get a set of the later mid 90's stock vortec heads.

 

[Midnightmoon]

I'd sure get a set of the later mid 90's stock vortec heads.

It's been a while since I've built a traditional SBC and the number of head choices out there are staggering. I had never considered going the Vortec route. But, we will definitely look in to it. Thanks.

 

[Midnightmoon]

The block is likely from a Chevrolet 4X4.
Before you send in for a hot tank and magnaflux, take a quick look at the bottom of the cylinder bores for signs of leaking. It is rare to see issues there, yet if there is such, then you don't need to spend extra money.
As for anyone else purchasing engine cores, I suggest staying away from Small Block Chevy engine cores made from 1981 to 1990 that were cast in Mexico. There were many, many bulletins regarding the casting being flawed in the lifter valley, with some blocks actually bursting inwards from pressure in the cooling system. GM made a heroic effort to find as many of these engines as possible, yet there will still be some out there - Target Master Engines were the majority of the culprits (these were the engines supplied complete with pan, intake and water pump for about half of the price you could rebuild one - we even had one we installed only to discover later it was assembled with no oil rings.)

Thanks. I'll take a look again. It seemed really clean when I looked it over the other day.

 

[Frankenchevy]

It's been a while since I've built a traditional SBC and the number of head choices out there are staggering. I had never considered going the Vortec route. But, we will definitely look in to it. Thanks.

Given you live in PA, where I’m sure it gets down to 40*F or less fairly often in the winter; I’d research the heck out of using a vortec head with a carb. There’s no exhaust crossover, and it takes a long time to warm up the intake. Meanwhile, your fuel is falling out of suspension and pooling in your intake making the engine run poorly until it gets sufficiently hot.

 

[Midnightmoon]

Given you live in PA, where I’m sure it gets down to 40*F or less fairly often in the winter; I’d research the heck out of using a vortec head with a carb. There’s no exhaust crossover, and it takes a long time to warm up the intake. Meanwhile, your fuel is falling out of suspension and pooling in your intake making the engine run poorly until it gets sufficiently hot.

See, this is what I love about this forum. I would never have known that. Thanks.

 

[Frankenchevy]

I had drivability issues with mine below 40*F until I switch to the proflo 4. When ambient air temps are 40, your manifold air temp is quite a bit colder. 40 isn’t even that cold, so I imagine it would be pretty bad if it were in the 20s or colder.

 

[Doppleganger]

Didn't catch the part you were staying carb. I know 2 who have used the vortec heads on mid 80s blocks (in plow trucks no less) but converted to FI.

My buddy has an older 6cyl Jeep he's going FI with as well because of what the garbage they call fuel today is doing to his carb.