My deal fell through on my gears/diff..looks like ill be doing it myself

[Ricko1966]

The pinion bearing is going to be the same spec. Nbd.I was super paranoid on my first rear gear set but after once it was a cake walk don't let anyone scare you, your old pinion shim is probably going to be the right one. You will need a dial indicator and the inch pound torque wrench. But really not a big deal. I would suggest new ring gear bolts and loctite on the ring gear bolts, I have had a problem once reusing ring gear bolts, and you know once bitten twice shy. Be sure you use a torque wrench on your ring gear bolts and carrier bolts. Proper preload is the torque on the pinion nut.Meaning when your preload is right that's it, no tighter.This really is NBD

 

[Swearbody]

The pinion bearing is going to be the same spec. Nbd.I was super paranoid on my first rear gear set but after once it was a cake walk don't let anyone scare you, your old pinion shim is probably going to be the right one. You will need a dial indicator and the inch pound torque wrench. But really not a big deal. I would suggest new ring gear bolts and loctite on the ring gear bolts, I have had a problem once reusing ring gear bolts, and you know once bitten twice shy. Be sure you use a torque wrench on your ring gear bolts and carrier bolts. Proper preload is the torque on the pinion nut.Meaning when your preload is right that's it, no tighter.This really is NBD

It doesnt seem like a big deal on paper. Ive watched a few videos tonight and honestly it looks like the damn drum brakes are the worst part and ive done them a dozen times at least. The ring/pinion/diff install seems pretty straight forward.

I am reconsidering the kit approach though. I cant seem to get an answer on the brand of gears included in any of the kits which makes me think they are all pretty much no name chinesium gearsets and knock off diffs. Ill probably just call US Gear and try to work directly with them.

Also ive decided since ill be working on the axle already im gonna do my own anti wrap bars instead of caltracs....that and the caltracs would interfere with my exhaust that ive worked very hard to fabricate and tune the tone of.

 

[Vbb199]

It doesnt seem like a big deal on paper. Ive watched a few videos tonight and honestly it looks like the damn drum brakes are the worst part and ive done them a dozen times at least. The ring/pinion/diff install seems pretty straight forward.

I am reconsidering the kit approach though. I cant seem to get an answer on the brand of gears included in any of the kits which makes me think they are all pretty much no name chinesium gearsets and knock off diffs. Ill probably just call US Gear and try to work directly with them.

Also ive decided since ill be working on the axle already im gonna do my own anti wrap bars instead of caltracs....that and the caltracs would interfere with my exhaust that ive worked very hard to fabricate and tune the tone of.

I started a thread spmewhere on peoples reccomendations regarding what brand to use.
I went with richmond

 

[Swearbody]

I started a thread spmewhere on peoples reccomendations regarding what brand to use.
I went with richmond

Was that the thread where I go on and on about US made only products ,LOL.[/QUOTE]

 

[Vbb199]

Useful tips on a 10 bolt
Get the gear mesh correct BEFORE torquing the crush sleeve down
Gear Backlash needs to be .006-.01
You want 14-19 in/lbs of preload on the NEW pinion bearings, and i suggest carefully removing the old pinion bearing and taking a dremmel to the ID and using it as a setup bearing, so you spare yourself pressing it on and off 100 times getting pinion depth correct.

On backlash, .010" worth of shims equals .007" runout.
So if runout is .014, add .010 to drivers side, take .010 from passengers side, your new backlash will be close to .007, and vise versa.

KEEP TRACK of which original carrier shim goes where, use those for initial numbers, go from there.

Same thing for pinion shims.


Its VERY important to get that bearing preload correct.

On final assembly of the pinion WITH crush sleeve,
I used the impact and gave the pinion nut slight ugga duggas, then checked preload, if it wasnt in spec, go back and give it a couple light ugga duggas again, then check again, i slowly crept up on that 14-19 in/lbs of preload.
When you hit the crush sleeve, you will feel it. The torque suddenly DRASTICALLY increases.

@Swearbody other thing i forgot to mention , use a piece of brass roundstock in front of your hammer for doing things like knocking the pinion out, or knocking the carrier into place.

Dont just use a bare hammer, it'll damage ****.
Idk if you knee that or not, maybe, maybe not. Just being informative.
I have aluminum, brass, and steel rods for various tasks. Obviously a deadblow works good too.

 

[Swearbody]

@Swearbody other thing i forgot to mention , use a piece of brass roundstock in front of your hammer for doing things like knocking the pinion out, or knocking the carrier into place.

Dont just use a bare hammer, it'll damage ****.
Idk if you knee that or not, maybe, maybe not. Just being informative.
I have aluminum, brass, and steel rods for various tasks. Obviously a deadblow works good too.

No i didnt consider that. should have but didnt.

 

[SquareRoot]

It ain't that hard fellers if you got half a brain and can follow instructions. I've rebuilt 7-8 diff's of sorts and they have all lived without any issue.

Spend some of the money you'll save and buy the right tools. The rest is fairly straightforward.

 

[Swearbody]

It ain't that hard fellers if you got half a brain and can follow instructions. I've rebuilt 7-8 diff's of sorts and they have all lived without any issue.

Spend some of the money you'll save and buy the right tools. The rest is fairly straightforward.

Im always looking for an excuse to buy new tools.
And for the 2k that was quoted to do a regear/diff I could buy a K as an axle donor; then part it out and make my money back.
When I heard 2k I knew I had an axle job in my future.

 

[MikeB]

It's not rocket science, but it's somewhat of an art. I've done two 10-bolts, one 12-bolt truck, along with a 9" Ford. I highly recommend Randy's Ring and Pinion for parts and tech support. And I'd also use a crush sleeve eliminator kit (spacer and shims) instead of dealing with a crush sleeve.

I'm not gonna get into tricks and tips, because there are a ton on YouTube and various websites. Seeing videos and illustrations is 10 times better than reading text.

Randy's: https://www.randysworldwide.com/

 

[Ricko1966]

I wanted to mention a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve.And this for pulling bearings. The freezer and the oven for reinstalling them. But didn't want turn this into a cat an toast thread. Anyway Mike b glad you brought up the crush sleeve eliminate . That's a bearing seperater misc washers and nuts some all thread and a piece of scrap I had laying around. Your old crush sleeve can be used for setup smack it with a hammer a couple of times over a piece of pipe to stretch it back out a little going back permanent use a solid shim the same length as your crush sleeve.

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[Swearbody]

It's not rocket science, but it's somewhat of an art. I've done two 10-bolts, one 12-bolt truck, along with a 9" Ford. I highly recommend Randy's Ring and Pinion for parts and tech support. And I'd also use a crush sleeve eliminator kit (spacer and shims) instead of dealing with a crush sleeve.

I'm not gonna get into tricks and tips, because there are a ton on YouTube and various websites. Seeing videos and illustrations is 10 times better than reading text.

Randy's: https://www.randysworldwide.com/

Ive been seeing Randy's all over the web on forums and such. They came up when I searched for "axle builders". I have considered the crush sleeve elimination and for about $15 may as well do it. Especially if it allows for an easier install.
Ive been watching Eric the Car Guy for years...he has a good video on the 10 bolt. There are some others but Eric seems to cut no corners.

 

[Swearbody]

I wanted to mention a solid spacer instead of a crush sleeve.And this for pulling bearings. The freezer and the oven for reinstalling them. But didn't want turn this into a cat an toast thread. Anyway Mike b glad you brought up the crush sleeve eliminate . That's a bearing seperater misc washers and nuts some all thread and a piece of scrap I had laying around.

You must be registered for see images attach

Are you trying to stop me from buying a 20 ton press. Shame on you!!!
But seriously Thanks Ricko! I was already considering Fabricobbling something to remove the bearings with but couldnt think of a way to keep pressure applied. I had made it as far as a bottle jack but had not yet determined a way to clamp it all together. I have about 8 ft of railroad track i could use. that shouldn't bend....if I can drill through it.
But then ive always wanted a Hydraulic press and one would have paid for itself several fold by now. eh, decisions.

 

[Vbb199]

Are you trying to stop me from buying a 20 ton press. Shame on you!!!
But seriously Thanks Ricko! I was already considering Fabricobbling something to remove the bearings with but couldnt think of a way to keep pressure applied. I had made it as far as a bottle jack but had not yet determined a way to clamp it all together. I have about 8 ft of railroad track i could use. that shouldn't bend....if I can drill through it.
But then ive always wanted a Hydraulic press and one would have paid for itself several fold by now. eh, decisions.

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-63662.html

Just a thought.
That, or any thing like it, my hydraulic press, and impact is all i needed.

 

[Swearbody]

https://www.harborfreight.com/bearing-separator-63662.html

Just a thought.
That, or any thing like it, my hydraulic press, and impact is all i needed.

So with me doing all new bearings,pinion,diff etc I wont really need to remove ANY bearings if i just buy the pinion bearing I need for making the "installation bearing". Is this wrong...am i missing a point somewhere?
I know ill still need to press the bearings on, but will I not be able to forego the removal of the pinion bearings and carrier bearings by just using all new part sans "install tool bearing". Just pop out the races and good to go?

 

[Vbb199]

So with me doing all new bearings,pinion,diff etc I wont really need to remove ANY bearings if i just buy the pinion bearing I need for making the "installation bearing". Is this wrong...am i missing a point somewhere?
I know ill still need to press the bearings on, but will I not be able to forego the removal of the pinion bearings and carrier bearings by just using all new part sans "install tool bearing". Just pop out the races and good to go?

Im not sure what you're asking ?