My 350 shutting off while driving

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Hugomartin

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Now I’m either going to buy the new harness wiring or test what’s there

FYI I have no clue how to test the wiring is there because of the 12 and 16 fuse able links I’m not sure how to test all these components I’ll probably save time and money buying this harness I’m pointing too because this problem is intermittent and the wires at the 12 and 16 are very skinny and possibly fractured or nternally
 

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Hugomartin

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V20 3/4 ton 5.7 350 suburban
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350
If it dies but restarts immediately. With it running I'd start grabbing under hood wiring and shaking it. I think you will find a broken wire.
Thanks!
 

WP29P4A

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Ok a chart
This diagram does NOT show a chassis ground from battery to chassis. It also does NOT show the large cable from the battery to the starter.
 
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WP29P4A

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Now I’m either going to buy the new harness wiring or test what’s there

FYI I have no clue how to test the wiring is there because of the 12 and 16 fuse able links I’m not sure how to test all these components I’ll probably save time and money buying this harness I’m pointing too because this problem is intermittent and the wires at the 12 and 16 are very skinny and possibly fractured or nternally
You don't need to replace the wiring to replace the fusible links. A fusible link is just a wire that melts at a very specific load rating, easy to test with a volt/ohm meter. Do a search (google/duckduckgo) for how to test a fusible link online so you can see a video for better understanding. Do the same for "how to install butt connectors"

If you get ideas from this site and then search for online videos of "how to" so you can see how its done, you will progress much faster.
 
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WP29P4A

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Ok just got the starter down and removed the shroud . Going to tighten nuts... I wonder how to test the wires ONLY for I suspect conduction may be intermittent on one or more of these wires.
The 2 orange wires that are most likely your fusible links are bent at a right angle, looks like they are making contact with the edge of the heat shield? If those are shorting that could cause intermittent problems.

Someone asked earlier about grounds, didn't see a response? Do you have a thick ground cable from battery to engine? Do you have a smaller wire from battery to fender or radiator support? do you have a medium size wire from the back of the engine to the fire wall?

Are EVERY one of the ground connections clean and tight? No paint or rust in between connections? Are the connectors on the ends of the ground wires free from corrosion? Between the connector and the wire?

An intermittent open circuit, is not common and rarely "corrects" itself, however bad connections do the intermittent thing quite well.

If you have TBI there is an important ground wire for the TBI on the water neck, same story with the clean and tight with clean tight connector, for proper ground.
 

Hugomartin

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The 2 orange wires that are most likely your fusible links are bent at a right angle, looks like they are making contact with the edge of the heat shield? If those are shorting that could cause intermittent problems.

Someone asked earlier about grounds, didn't see a response? Do you have a thick ground cable from battery to engine? Do you have a smaller wire from battery to fender or radiator support? do you have a medium size wire from the back of the engine to the fire wall?

Are EVERY one of the ground connections clean and tight? No paint or rust in between connections? Are the connectors on the ends of the ground wires free from corrosion? Between the connector and the wire?

An intermittent open circuit, is not common and rarely "corrects" itself, however bad connections do the intermittent thing quite well.

If you have TBI there is an important ground wire for the TBI on the water neck, same story with the clean and tight with clean tight connector, for proper ground.
I thought the fuseable links were coated in some insulating materials. So if the fuseable links are touching the heat sheild then heat sheild is shorting out the fuseable links ehh?? Im doing away with the heat sheild then if thats the case.... Ive also wiggled every wire even the starter wiring harnes while idiling and everything seemed fine

If i were to touch with a screwdriver on the black fuseable link would it short out... But like you say maybe the wires bending around that heat sheild is messing things up
 

WP29P4A

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I thought the fuseable links were coated in some insulating materials. So if the fuseable links are touching the heat sheild then heat sheild is shorting out the fuseable links ehh?? Im doing away with the heat sheild then if thats the case.... Ive also wiggled every wire even the starter wiring harnes while idiling and everything seemed fine

If i were to touch with a screwdriver on the black fuseable link would it short out... But like you say maybe the wires bending around that heat sheild is messing things up
They are coated in insulating material, and IF it rubs on a metal edge, it is POSSIBLE to rub through the insulation and short out, eventually. Wires should NEVER come in contact with sharp metal edges, for extended periods of time

In the picture I can't see if the wires are touching, I just mentioned it so you can inspect it and see if it's a problem.
 

Hugomartin

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Ok I believe the shutting off of my truck is the ignition lock cylinder if it moves or rocks slightly it will shut off the truck... would just replacing the lock cylinder resolve this? I’d imagine I’d have to rekey it if I do this. Or is there some spring just worn out making the key unable to hold its place?
 

Snoots

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Your switch is most likely out of alignment at the bottom of the column.
 

Hugomartin

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Your switch is most likely out of alignment at the bottom of the column.
Thank you sir I wonder how I would go about trying to fix this
 

Ricko1966

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There are 2 screws on the electrical portion of the switch the electrical portion is on the left side of the column about just above where your left foot sits on the floor. Loosen the screws to move the switch.
 

Hugomartin

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There are 2 screws on the electrical portion of the switch the electrical portion is on the left side of the column about just above where your left foot sits on the floor. Loosen the screws to move the switch.
Ok so I need to adjust the position of how the ignition switch mates to the steering column?
 

Hugomartin

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Your switch is most likely out of alignment at the bottom of the column.
Thanks I had a good time getting it in the other week lol I had to push it all the way forward to the front because it wouldn’t start if it was mounted a 1/4 inch too far the opposite way. I thought I may have to adjust the rod somehow
 

Snoots

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