Mark IV 454 Engine Build

[Craig Nedrow]

Information is what you’re looking for the first thing I would buy is this book just to give you an idea what is involved.

 

[Craig Nedrow]

My current motor has an edelbrock air gap intake Flowmaster, 2 inch headers into 3 inch collectors going through Hooker arrow chamber 3 inch mufflers has an RV cam 550 lift duration is like 230 at .050, can is not optimal. Well, the peanut port heads aren’t perfect. They do have velocity, and generate excellent torque and throttle response. My truck just frys the tires in first second and third gear from the standing start. Yeah, I got a few videos of that, but didn’t want people to get tired of seeing them. Forgot, carb is Holly 750, 72 and 80 jets (front rear).

 

[squaredeal91]

My dad has one of his first books[how to rebuild your small block Chevy] he was younger in that book lol. used it on his first car. A 63 impala 327. and I used it on my first car, a 66c20 in high-school 350. Good books

 

[JeffK10America]

finally got my 454 engine . Long time in the works. But hasn't been a rush . This is going in a 69 chevelle , it's a standard bore 4bolt , 781 heads . Looking to get insight on other people's engine builds , was considering a 496 stroker kit , however the thought of a 60 over punch rite off doesn't set well . Was wondering how the roller cam set up has been for others here aluminum heads etc . I just want decent power and sound and reliability. Later in life I can go with a 496 build . Any insights on the topic would be much appreciated. Thanks

 

[Shorty81]

finally got my 454 engine . Long time in the works. But hasn't been a rush . This is going in a 69 chevelle , it's a standard bore 4bolt , 781 heads . Looking to get insight on other people's engine builds , was considering a 496 stroker kit , however the thought of a 60 over punch rite off doesn't set well . Was wondering how the roller cam set up has been for others here aluminum heads etc . I just want decent power and sound and reliability. Later in life I can go with a 496 build . Any insights on the topic would be much appreciated. Thanks

finally got my 454 engine . Long time in the works. But hasn't been a rush . This is going in a 69 chevelle , it's a standard bore 4bolt , 781 heads . Looking to get insight on other people's engine builds , was considering a 496 stroker kit , however the thought of a 60 over punch rite off doesn't set well . Was wondering how the roller cam set up has been for others here aluminum heads etc . I just want decent power and sound and reliability. Later in life I can go with a 496 build . Any insights on the topic would be much appreciated. Thanks

I have a 496. It's an old 76 454 with a Skip White 496 rotating assembly and .060 over. 781 heads, Weiend dual plane intake 750 Holley. This a very happy big block that gets 11 mpg. I work this truck but drive her gently. I would recommend this setup, but I don't do burnouts, or high RPM. This truck has mucho torque and does not need high revs. I'm old guy.....

 

[Shorty81]

Under hood...

 

[squaredeal91]

Under hood...

Sexy

 

[JeffK10America]

Under hood...

Nice truck shorty . Ye about the same year as my block . And yes the temptation is there for sure . And yes the skip white rotating assembly is a pretty sweet deal price wyze . Also heard good things from those setups. I am sure it's a torque monster . Just driving my friends 402 . Man it pulls all stick just headers . So yes I appreciate your input very much . A chevelle should have attitude. Awesome truck !

 

[RanchWelder]

My truck engine has had catastrophic failure from the oil intake tube disconnecting from the oil pump, due to sub-standard brazing by GM.

The engine rebuild project is done, because I cannot afford to rebuild the engine from scratch, requiring a complete re-machine overhaul.

I am parting out the K2500 and everything is listed for the GMT400 Part Out in the sales threads...

Really a shame, this low mileage truck is going to salvage, but the difficulty of accessing the oil pan, or rebuilding the engine, is way more money than a SquareBody.

The entire A/C system has to be removed, before you can perform the manifold removal, just to change or set the timing.

I'm saving the 14-Bolt and rebuilding the 4L80E.

Anyone who wants parts from the K2500 or the 7.4L should PM me.

I really appreciate the feedback and advice you all offered me. I was going to have to restore this truck in record time, if the variables were known and it was possible for me to drive it functionally, after new bearings and a new pump.

I cannot reasonably R&R the pump, without machine work, after what I have found out to be the engine issue. 15 miles of the oil intake tube rattling around the crankshaft, before the truck was pulled over, is too long for the internals to handle the damages done, IMHO.

It's a good core and can probably be restored as a good Mark VI Big Block starting point, however I cannot afford to build the big Block from scratch.

If you are close enough to come pick it up, contact me ASAP, before it heads to Great Falls for scrap.

 

[matt4426]

finally got my 454 engine . Long time in the works. But hasn't been a rush . This is going in a 69 chevelle , it's a standard bore 4bolt , 781 heads . Looking to get insight on other people's engine builds , was considering a 496 stroker kit , however the thought of a 60 over punch rite off doesn't set well . Was wondering how the roller cam set up has been for others here aluminum heads etc . I just want decent power and sound and reliability. Later in life I can go with a 496 build . Any insights on the topic would be much appreciated. Thanks

I would go with what ever domed pistons you need for 10:1 comp ratio and a hydraulic roller cam with intake duration in the mid 200s at .050".

 

[RanchWelder]

This is a good read for your build.
It's retrofit, dated and the prices have changed.

https://www.streetmusclemag.com/tec...-a-hydraulic-roller-cam-in-a-big-block-chevy/

The $910 kit they used, with .510/.510 is on sale for $1325.66. It is FLAT TAPPET...
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/cca-k11-423-8

Here's the cam I have available, (94150 miles, in very good shape... you can have for 1/2 price of the new one, plus shipping.):
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-mc1316

Your machinist can polish this camshaft surface or you can have it re-ground to his custom specs.
A cam blank is a cam blank. Or is it?

My advice, is buy good used OEM, WITH THE ADDITIONAL HARDENING, USUALLY NOT AVAILABLE FROM AFTERMARKET CAM MANUFACTURERS... and have YOUR man work his craft and make it better... Melling makes a lot of OEM parts, so the billet cams, (even used), are far better than aftermarket off the shelf non-billet cams. (As a general rule...).

You'll know your machinist customized it and you can always send it back for a more aggressive profile, if your not satisfied.

These are the stock lifters you might want, if you go with the spider:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-jb-7003

These are link bars, for a retrofit engine without the bosses for the spider and OEM lifter locks:
The Melling Horizontal Link Bar Roller Lifters are OEM quality and they are not cheap:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/mel-bb969rf16/make/chevrolet

Lot's of issues with sub standard quality on cheaper lifters...

Most domestic lifters are made by the same company in Detroit, but with different grinds and proprietary oiling orifices...
Stay away from anything in a white box... The Melling rollers, in the lifters, have the same billet hardened steel as the OEM cams.
Melling is good enough to 500 HP on a street BB engine, in my opinion. Any manufacturer can accidentally have a lemon lifter, at any price, in the box. Check with your machinist to confirm, if there's any doubt.

If you go more than 500HP, the link bars' performance probably outweighs the cost effectiveness of the OEM spider.
The spider is not made to handle valve float. If you screw up pushing the envelope, the spider might let you down.
There are very strong performing engines using spider, just no boost, or power addres or wild converts or rediculous high rpms.

This link offers an entry level assembly for dome pistons with dual valve reliefs:
https://www.summitracing.com/parts/esp-18001l030/make/chevrolet

You can spend $1000 more than that kit, for better rods and a forged crank...
Choose your machinist wisely. Avoid the package deals and "money saving" kits...
The rotating assembly link I posted, might be cheaper if you buy all the parts individually, so do the math.

Even if you go with a mild/stock cam and build the top end for longevity, a modern metals bottom end and better than stock rods are a good investment, if you can afford it. Forged Cranks are not necessary for street use, as years of testing results has proven.
The metallurgy has improved for Cast Cranks, just buy from quality manufacturers.

The up front machine work and a proper built bottom end, is where my budget for my Big Block hit the wall.
The "affordable" Eagle rotating assembly from the link above, plus the machine work...
...is getting closer to $6500... (up over a grand from 2 years ago).
Shipping to where I live ruins everything, B/C LTL freight charges.

The reason I'm not building my BB... No machinist for well over a hundred miles...
I refuse to sink 3-4 thousand on a top end using stock bottom internals.
The L29 rods are not rated for exceeding much more than stock HP.
The crankshaft is not rated for much more than stock HP...

Your pics do not allow us to see your valley and if it has castings for OEM 454 roller lifters and the spider.
It looks like you have the casting for the cam thrust plate?
The billet cam I have is stepped for the thrust plate...

The timing cover I have available, has 6 bolts and is cast aluminum. It has casting blanks, where 2 additional bolt holes could be drilled, for use with an eight bolt Mark XX.

It has the crank sensor and crankshaft reluctor for timing trigger.
I have the OEM distributor, coil... everything you need for a trigger fired 7.4L, available.

Check your block casting numbers and verify what your cam bearing sizes are.
I have the Complete set of GM Repair manuals for the Mark VI L29 7.4L, here on my desk, with all the data for my engine and every engine available for the 1999 model year.
The cam bearing sizes and tolerances are listed in detail.
If they match your engine, I might have some good roller parts for you.

If you can use a stock OEM L29 cam, for fuel economy and longer engine life, I have almost everything, except the lifters, for a stock spider, with stock locks for you, ready to ship out.

If your block has room for a good quality OEM L29 single row timing chain and you can fit the crank reluctor wheel on your engine, you should consider installing one. The OEM L29 timing set is not cheap. Single row is good for 120K miles or more.
It's a wear part and should be changed during the life of your engine.

Double row does not fit with the reluctor, so don't go crazy over double roller, (...unless you have a machinist in the family to custom grind your block for double roller spacing).

Shurkey wrote an excellent write up using older Mark IV engine blocks and L29 heads, what it takes and what parts work.
This thread sums up hundreds of different threads, where good guys barely articulate the details; and leave you guessing.
He really covers it well.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/l-29-heads-on-mk-iv-454-block.34285/

My L29 heads might be spoken for. If not, I'll let you know.

I would be careful if selecting Non-GM Caste Iron BB Heads.
There is a reason the GM heads are more money.
The velocity shapes in aftermarket intake ports are not the same as GM.
The flash and poor castings, thin valve stem walls, on cheapo heads can be brutal and the cost to rework them can erase the money you thought you saved.

You are paying your machinist a lot of money per hour to de bur, re-weld and correct poorly shaped or hacked machined surfaces.
If your machinist tries to sell you cheapo heads, hire a different one.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-10141280

Basically, you decide what your budget is, if you want to go OEM roller or link bars on an affordable stock roller cam.
You can usually save a few bucks not buying "the kit"... so price out what is in the kit separately.

This is the result of three years of research, hoping the engine I have could be rebuilt without full machine service.
I hope the information here, allows you to make an informed build strategy and saves you time and money.

If you go the rout of regrinding a billet OEM cam, it might take a few weeks to have one reworked.
It has become very popular and teams such as Avon Camshafts are swamped with regrinds.
The aftermarket crap-shoot has caused a lot of builders to demand OEM regrinds...

Send your machinist a Christmas turkey. Get him a Snap-On or Amana Machine Tool Supply Gift Card...
Then square that new block.

 

[Trucksareforwork]

I understand it’s a hobby and people sometimes like to build the biggest and baddest, but I’m really starting to appreciate the simplicity of a mild cam.

Startable, runnable, drivable, and the brakes work. You also don’t have to rejigger stock components to “fit” with an rpm range most of us never mess with.

I have a comp 280 class in a small block in one of my cars. The car (Impala) is set up fine, starts fine, runs fine, but needs regearing to take advantage of the cam.