Looking at a 1985 C10 need some advice

[JACK34]

Its not a C20. It has C10 badges on the fender and that's a 12 bolt rear end. C20 in 74 would have had a 14BFF rear end and 8 lug axles. That is a crazy price for something that has been that hacked together and doesn't run. There are a ton of trucks just like that all around the PNW. There was at least 4 of them in WAY better condition than that for sale at the PIR swap meet in portland and they were in the $8-10k range, but 4x4 and short bed C10 or step sides. The 2wd is much cheaper up here because everyone wants 4wd for snow/ice and offroading.

Damn, thank you so much for the info.

 

[Bextreme04]

Here’s one in similar shape but without the half ass “good from afar, but far from good” paint job. This one looks to be original paint, so should be able to buff it out and oil it. Only $2k and an actual C20 in Vancouver, WA

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[Bextreme04]

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[JACK34]

The 350 looks like it has everything there. What does the seller say about it not running? What maintenance would he have done if he had the time/means?
Could be as simple as corroded battery terminals or as complex as poor compression. It would be nice to have an idea of what degree of "maintenance" as he said, is needed to get it driving.

He said it needed a new battery and starting fluid to move it.

 

[Ricko1966]

Ricko1966, That had to be a V8 diesel truck getting 28mpg highway, and with the "standard rear axle" 2.72 gears!!

Nope it's a 305 but I don't know what's different on the special economy edition. Regular 305? 305 with a different cam? Heads? IDK

 

[78C10BigTen]

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I wish that was achievable over here!!!

 

[JACK34]

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I got it I just don't have Facebook. Wow.

 

[AZ Highlander]

He said it needed a new battery and starting fluid to move it.

Maybe if thats all it needs, at the worst you could buy it and then go to the nearest parts store and get what you need to drive it.
The truck @Bextreme04 posted in Post #33 seems like a better option however. Especially if you can drive it and see how it runs.

 

[Bextreme04]

That guy isn’t even likely to get the $2k for that truck around here. He won’t get any bites and eventually someone will offer him $1200-$1400 and it will go do that. I bought a dirty and mildly crusty 74 C20 a few years back, running and driving with a decently complete interior for $700. I fixed it up a bit and cleaned it up and then tried to sell it after I bought my 1980 K25(for $900) for $2k. After it sat for a while with no interest, a guy down the street came by and gave me $1400 cash for it.

My point was that they are literally everywhere up here, and that $6k for that truck was way too much.

 

[Grit dog]

Thats a good lookin truck for reasonable $! I hate the seats but id jump on it.

And in WA, that’s maaaybe a $3k truck, if you could drive it home, hence the reason no one has bought it….besides being a potential basket case.
It’s local to here and been for sale more than once and unsold. Poor Army dude probably got ripped off for like $5k for that schitty paint job and trying to recoup his $.

 

[Grit dog]

I appreciate it. Not sure what to do yet. Engine is questionable and I have to find a bench seat.

I’ll presume the one I sent you didn’t work out?

 

[Grit dog]

He said it needed a new battery and starting fluid to move it.

Think about it and learn from this. Why would someone who seems to NEED to sell his truck (based on the add), not scrape together the $65 needed to get it running then? ($60 for a cheap recon battery and $5 for a can of ether)

 

[JACK34]

I’ll presume the one I sent you didn’t work out?

No he said he would contact me in 2 weeks and never did for like a month then he did by then I had already found something.

 

[JACK34]

Ha! I didn’t remember reading this post.
Is there a check in the mail? Lol
Is that deal gonna work out?

It didn't work out.