Leaking Optima red top battery X2

[Grit dog]

My love for Optimas is about zero.
Back in the mid 2000s I bought a red top for our boat. That one battery got me 3 or 4 free replacements because they were all junk and wouldn’t make it through a winter (disconnected and either on a maintainer or charged and no maintainer). The last one of the bunch got stuck in my 74 Jeep on short notice one day and I left it there to die. It lasted 7 or 8 years.
Bought one yellow top that was junk too. All JC batteries.
I know people who swear by them and I trust their opinions. Hard to argue with 10+ year old batteries that still work.
I have not had the same experience.

 

[BKING33]

I have Optima's in both of my Chevelle's. I have gotten 10 years on them before. But the last battery in the one car started having problems only after being about 3-4 years old.
Quality is a big issue with all batteries nowadays. Not sure what the best option is anymore.

 

[scrap--metal]

Many of you will disagree with me, but I've had good luck with Walmart batteries. Their "Everstart Maxx" line has not disappointed me yet. They only carry a 3 year warranty now, so there is a risk with that, but I've been getting more than that out of them (typically 5 to 7 years).

I run those batteries in everything other than my Camaro, which has gotten Interstate batteries in the past. The last two Interstate batteries I've bought have been less than satisfactory though and I would not recommend a new Interstate battery.

 

[Doppleganger]

Many of you will disagree with me, but I've had good luck with Walmart batteries. Their "Everstart Maxx" line has not disappointed me yet. They only carry a 3 year warranty now, so there is a risk with that, but I've been getting more than that out of them (typically 5 to 7 years).

I run those batteries in everything other than my Camaro, which has gotten Interstate batteries in the past. The last two Interstate batteries I've bought have been less than satisfactory though and I would not recommend a new Interstate battery.

I think they're still made by Exide (iirc the oldest battery company in the US?), and although I have had ones go bad early, its a fraction of the major 'big name - high dollar' ones. I stopped using them alot because either my size was out of stock or the ones there had date stickers going back almost a year.

The guys who troll fish swear by them. Cheap(er) and if anything goes wrong, there's always a Walmart nearby to take it to.

 

[RecklessWOT]

Many of you will disagree with me, but I've had good luck with Walmart batteries. Their "Everstart Maxx" line has not disappointed me yet. They only carry a 3 year warranty now, so there is a risk with that, but I've been getting more than that out of them (typically 5 to 7 years).

I run those batteries in everything other than my Camaro, which has gotten Interstate batteries in the past. The last two Interstate batteries I've bought have been less than satisfactory though and I would not recommend a new Interstate battery.

I've had two everstarts randomly start leaking out of I can't even find where. Seeping through the plastic maybe? Rotted the battery tray (and unibody underneath) in one of my 280Zs, and the other was a deep cycle I kept in one of the side cabinets of the utility body on my '08 GMC so I can use it for the winch, and it damn near burned a hole clean through the shelf it was sitting on. Found it sitting in about an inch of battery acid powder, after baking soda and water to clean the acid out the shelf is so thin I can bend it with my finger tip, it used to hold well over 50 lbs no sweat. With that being said, I had one in my yard truck ('83 CJ7 with a plow) for a good 6-7 years that also included a lot of sitting and it worked fine until it finally just had normal old age issues. So hit and miss there I guess

 

[fast 99]

Optima customer service told me their battery carried a 3 year replacement warranty. Nothing after that. Walmarts warranty is apparently the same or better.

Below is part of an email with the questions they wanted me to answer before declining replacement.

In order to trouble shoot I will need some additional information. Will the battery not take a charge, or will it not hold a charge? What is the current voltage of the battery? What amperage and battery setting are you charging the battery at? What is the frequency and distance the vehicle is driven? If it is a stored vehicle how is the battery maintained while in storage? Do you have any aftermarket accessories?

 

[SquareRoot]

There's a Johnson Controls plant within 5 miles of my house. I toured it about 6 years ago as part of a field trip in a college program I was taking. Discovered it was the largest consumer of electricity in the county. It made sense when we entered a warehouse with tables and covered with 40,000 batteries all being charged simultaneously. Aside from that, I use Redtops in my square. FWIW, batteries, regardless of brand, never last more than 5 years here in the desert SW. 3 years is average. Something about the 120 degree summers. Lol

 

[BlueMule]

Wow, sorry for the late responses, lots of work, seems like I have more work now I have retired, hehehe.
Anywho, 16 volts is stressing not only the battery but the any electrical device, including manual switches. Remember E-I-R, so the more voltage the more heat on any resistance in a circuit.

So, first you need to do a voltage drop test, voltmeter negative to negative, then with the vehicle running, and accessories off, check the voltage at the output of the alternator, then check it at the battery, if you are off more than .8 V, you have a wiring issue.

Next, with the vehicle off, set your DVOM to ohms, clean a spot on the alternator, and check from the alternator body to the negative terminal on the battery, your resistance should be almost 0. If you find high resistance in the ground, you need to clean the negative at the battery and the engine block. By the way, you should have a ground direct to the block, some have a ground to a bracket, not the best, better direct to the block.

Also if you have these, get rid of them

You must be registered for see images attach

And use these INSTEAD

You must be registered for see images attach

Also if you don't have one of these, get one like it, clamp style for amps, it will help in finding draws, and is fine for basically everything automotive

You must be registered for see images attach

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00NWGZ4XC/

Anyway hope is helps

Blue

 

[BlueMule]

Now as to optima batteries. They are good for rough service and deep cycle, also they are lighter but they do not last any longer than "wet" cell batteries. The other issue is that under high heat, they are still susceptible to internal shorts and warpage. I had an '86 Golf with a TurboDiesel that I used to run around all of north carolina, virginia, and south carolina doing lemon law inspections and extended warrantee inspections, so I figured I would get more life out of the Optima, than a regular battery, NOPE, same 3-4 years, the heat just beat it up as badly as a standard battery. My opinion is if you are racing, or off-roading, get the optima, but if not, take the extra you pay for the optima and get a higher amperage wet cell, as long as it physically fits your vehicle, then get a battery insulator wrap. I think you will be better off in the long run.

I miss that little car, really tough vehicle.

Blue

 

[WP29P4A]

I thought it would be a good idea to let you guys know how this issue got resolved, first off thanks for all the great ideas, it was a learning experience. I have always mistakenly believed that a voltage regulator, regulated the voltage. What I learned is that,(on a Mopar) what it actually does is control the alternator, which in turn, regulates the voltage.
One of the new voltage regulators I had was defective and would keep both fields energized, making the alternator put out max voltage. The race version that I had worked keeping the alternator output at 13.5
I bought a new non-racing period correct voltage regulator at Summit racing and everything works as it should. The needle on the alternator gauge is no longer trying to jump out the passenger side of the car, and the battery is no longer spreading the love all over the engine compartment.

 

[AuroraGirl]

I thought it would be a good idea to let you guys know how this issue got resolved, first off thanks for all the great ideas, it was a learning experience. I have always mistakenly believed that a voltage regulator, regulated the voltage. What I learned is that,(on a Mopar) what it actually does is control the alternator, which in turn, regulates the voltage.
One of the new voltage regulators I had was defective and would keep both fields energized, making the alternator put out max voltage. The race version that I had worked keeping the alternator output at 13.5
I bought a new non-racing period correct voltage regulator at Summit racing and everything works as it should. The needle on the alternator gauge is no longer trying to jump out the passenger side of the car, and the battery is no longer spreading the love all over the engine compartment.

does mopar alts have a feature to "sense" by chance? because for your alternator and battery life, using that circuit to your advantage woud be good here but only if you can I guess

 

[SquareRoot]

does mopar alts have a feature to "sense" by chance? because for your alternator and battery life, using that circuit to your advantage woud be good here but only if you can I guess

^^^^- - - - - - -*

 

[WP29P4A]

does Mopar alts have a feature to "sense" by chance? because for your alternator and battery life, using that circuit to your advantage would be good here but only if you can I guess

The voltage regulator handles that function, when it senses voltage below a certain point, it energizes the second field, increasing the voltage.

 

[AuroraGirl]

^^^^- - - - - - -*

I domt actually get what that means, but I apologize if I did something or upset you

The voltage regulator handles that function, when it senses voltage below a certain point, it energizes the second field, increasing the voltage.

so where in the system is the voltage regulator reading the voltage and determining to increase (or not), just curious

 

[WP29P4A]

@AuroraGirl Basically the blue F wire on the ALT is hot when the car is running, the voltage regulator monitors the blue wire, when it gets down to a certain voltage, the voltage regulator sends power to the green F wire, energizing the second field in the alternator. It works like a switch, not like a dimmer. Think of it as a two stage charging circuit. The black wire is the output voltage to the battery and the alternator gauge.

So,,,when the battery is fully charged and there is no accessory type load, and both fields on the alternator are energized it puts out close to 17 volts, and cooks the crap out of the battery.

I think I like the Chevy version better with all the parts inside the ALT, one wire seems like a good idea.