Keyless entry upgrade

[KennedyHill]

I am in the middle of an LS swap on my ‘87 square and I’d like to add the body control module from my donor to operate a keyless entry function on the truck. I have all the schematics, but I’m not having any luck on getting it to work correctly. Was wondering if anyone has any suggestions as to what to do. Thanks!

 

[KennedyHill]

My donor is an ‘02 GMC Yukon XL

 

[grummy]

Ugh.. You never know what you run into with anything that had a computer. Probably throw a code if a wire is broke ! It also might need all the other circuits the body control module operated before a single function would work.

Sorry I'm no help.

I cheated and just bought a $25 Amazon 4 Door Power Lock kit with keyless remote(s). It sure is nice not having to lean over across the cab. It even locks both doors just when I lock mine on the way out. Sadly I did have to pull the doors and drill everything. I used factory Wire boots though. Good Luck !

 

[Broken85]

I added this little guy two years ago. Wiring wasn’t a major pain and it is still working just fine. Since it triggers the locks by bypassing the switch, it actually is much stronger than using the door switch which in my truck barely has enough power to raise and lower both locks.

Amazon.com

 

[Chris64]

I used to install alarms. GM are a pain compared to most vehicles in that you can't just send a signal to the switch wires. You'll need 2 Bosch style relays.

IIRC the wiring was
85 to remote controller, 1 to lock and 1 to unlock
86 to power (assuming the remote sends a ground signal)
30 to actuator positive, relay 2 30 to actuator negative
87a to ground
87 to power

You need to send the actuator a positive and a negative.

I just found a picture that also describes it - almost the same as what I said (85 & 86 are interchangeable)

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Correction: you got me thinking about this, it's been like 30 years, I think you needed to interrupt the wire from the switch to the solenoid. Still two relays but I think 87a goes to the switch side and 30 goes to the solenoid side. You can tell if the solenoid lines are grounded by default. If you cut one of the lines and apply power only to the solenoid side it locks. I highly recommend you roll the windows down before doing this. I can't tell you how many installers locked the keys in the car while adding door locks.

 

[Camar068]

I added this little guy two years ago. Wiring wasn’t a major pain and it is still working just fine. Since it triggers the locks by bypassing the switch, it actually is much stronger than using the door switch which in my truck barely has enough power to raise and lower both locks.

Amazon.com

I did the same but the one with the solenoids that direct mount to the lock arm. Wanna say it was $25 for a 4 door. Careful of the screws that clamp on the arm tho....mine stripped out pretty easy.

 

[grummy]

Careful of the screws that clamp on the arm tho....mine stripped out pretty easy.

I know what you mean. The OE rods are a larger diameter than what the clamps are made for. I removed the OE rods, thinned them out with the grinder in the area the clamps are installed. There was no way the clamps would work properly without doing that.

 

[CorvairGeek]

I used a serial but radio w/XM Satellite from a 2005 LeSabre in my '84 Caprice. I added the Keyless entry with the security system features shortly after. In that vehicle (and probably others), the Dash Interface Module (DIM) is the Power Mode Master. I also used the Instrument Panel Control Module, many times call the Body Control Module. You would also need the Driver's Door Module for an actual +12v/-12v to the door lock motor. I sent this signal to the OEM door lock relay in the car. I did not set up the system as progressive, i.e. one remote button push for drivers door only, 2 pushes for all doors. You would also need Remote Keyless Entry control module as the antenna for the system. It also is matched to the remotes. Some GMs of this era cannot be programmed for new remotes without a Tech 2 type scan tool. Taking this module with already matched remote(s) is the way around this.

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I also had to use the Rear Interface Module to use the trunk release function for the car.

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The remote receiver is just a little module.

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