k10 ignition help

[83k1016]

i have a 83 k10 that will run for about 15 mins and then will shut off and wont start for an hour or two and at 1st i thought it was the fuel so i took the carb apart and cleaned everything put it back together and befor i hooked up the fuel line i cranked the engine over to make sure i was getting fuel from the pump and it was, got it all back together and it ran for 15 mins and then died again.....

the next day i went to the shop to mess with my truck and it wont start ... still wont and i have no spark at traced back all the wires and everything is in place anybody have any thoughts?

it has an msd distributor modified, msd 6a,and msd blaster coil
((the esc/ignition spark retard/module is bypassed ))

PLEASE HELP!!!!!!

 

[MrMarty51]

I would get on the MSD website and find their trouble shooting guide.
If it has a module, like the good O~L Delco distributor, then I`d say that could be the problem. I am not familiar wit the MSD systems.
Welcome to the forum.

 

[Jims86]

First of all, stock AC Delco ignition is best, Aftermarket has had some of us wishing for tailgate warmers.
Is there anything else spliced off of the ignition system for keyed power?
Maybe get an AC Delco ignition module, and give it a try.

 

[chengny]

A good place to start troubleshooting is to see if the coil is losing it's input (primary side) power supply.

Just as a test - attach one end of a jumper to any reliable 12 volt source (one of the studs on the junction block - that is mounted high up on the firewall is a good tap point).

Run the other end to the "BAT" on the primary side of the coil. Unplug the OEM wire (pink??) don't splice into it. Reason is, if that wire has a good enough short to ground it can drop the input voltage (go below 10.5 VDC and you get no high voltage spark out of the coil) - piggy backing another feed on it will just pull the voltage in the test wire down as well.

That will pretty much ensure that the coil is getting power at all times. If the problem goes away - it is a loss of primary side voltage.

Look at the power out from the ignition switch and then check at the end that plugs into the distributor (where the temp jumper will be).

If power from the ignition switch is okay, check the OEM wire closely. Especially between the dist end and the fire wall.

Running an unswitched jumper is alright - the same as if you left your key in the run position.

 

[coocooman01]

hello,unplug your knock sensor at the distributer.worked for me.

 

[chengny]

((the esc/ignition spark retard/module is bypassed ))