K10 burb shackles vs k20?

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Strick

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I bought the parts Sub with a new-ish 6" Rough Country with braided hoses, raised steering arm, sway bar drop brackets, 4" rear block with add-a-leaf. The rear u-bolts were very short so I used the axles & all under the 87 V10.

HS
 

Truck82

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In place of frame rivets, I much prefer to use grade 8 flange bolts, along with hardened, pinch lock, flange nuts.

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I think this would make the appearance a little cleaner as well. But the paint should kinda hide all that anyway
 

bucket

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I think this would make the appearance a little cleaner as well. But the paint should kinda hide all that anyway

Better, more even clamping force is the main goal with them. But yeah, they look far better too, imho.
 

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I used grade 8 hardware on mine, tractor supply sells it by the pound safer bet.
 

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Better, more even clamping force is the main goal with them. But yeah, they look far better too, imho.
Do you happen to know the torque spec on those?
 

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I just used the rear 56' springs from a '91 Sub V10 on an '87 V10 pickup that was '52 springs. Knocked out the rivets & drilled the hole to 7/16 & bolted the shackle back in as the holes were already there.
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He’s talking front not rear axle.
 

Strick

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I haven't done the C to K conversion on my dually yet. I can see that the rear shackle hole will need to be bored & the front hanger/rad support changed. I've seen some YT videos on the conversation that shows this too.
Someone had mentioned here (some time ago in another post) that the radius in the frame is slightly different where the rear shackle for the front leaf attaches; C to K. I can see that all the crossmember support has to be swap9ed as well.
I don't see any reason for stuff not to work or interchange as long as it's C/K 10 & 20 frames being used.

HS
 

PrairieDrifter

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I haven't done the C to K conversion on my dually yet. I can see that the rear shackle hole will need to be bored & the front hanger/rad support changed. I've seen some YT videos on the conversation that shows this too.
Someone had mentioned here (some time ago in another post) that the radius in the frame is slightly different where the rear shackle for the front leaf attaches; C to K. I can see that all the crossmember support has to be swap9ed as well.
I don't see any reason for stuff not to work or interchange as long as it's C/K 10 & 20 frames being used.

HS
ORD has 2wd-4wd conversion hangers for the main eyes and core support. The frame needs modification (a c30 anyways) the parking brake runs through the frame on c30's.
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Theoretically the front crossmember under the core support should be fine, but if you're in there and can find a 4wd crossmember you might as well. Then ORD has upgraded engine crossmembers and rear eye hangers and shackles.
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Strick

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I cut the frame along the edge of the cab mount from my donor 80 K30. I'll have it to use for reference when converting my C30. I got all the rear spring shackles too.
I've seen some stuff from ORD & ORU too. I'm going to search again because I've seen a frame boxing kit offered for 30 trucks.
Thanks for the advice & info.

HS
 

bucket

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I haven't done the C to K conversion on my dually yet. I can see that the rear shackle hole will need to be bored & the front hanger/rad support changed. I've seen some YT videos on the conversation that shows this too.
Someone had mentioned here (some time ago in another post) that the radius in the frame is slightly different where the rear shackle for the front leaf attaches; C to K. I can see that all the crossmember support has to be swap9ed as well.
I don't see any reason for stuff not to work or interchange as long as it's C/K 10 & 20 frames being used.

HS

The radius of the frame is roughly the same between the C and K. Except for the 1 ton trucks. The K30 frame has a bit of an indentation in the frame for spring eye clearance, due to the taller frame. That can be avoided by simply positioning the shackle hanger a little lower in the frame. Castor angle will be slightly changed if that's done.
 

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