Is this a good deal?

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Grit dog

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“Value” is so subjective. Especially being an “almost classic” and other things. Geographic location, not only for rust but popularity. (Example around here 2wd square burbs are THE bottom of the squarebody barrel for prices. I’ve seen guys part out ones that looked like that because all the clean parts were worth more than the vehicle whole. Even in the land of less rust.
Biggest thing is figure out what that is worth or would sell for in the condition you “want it to be in” and then start subtracting EVERYTHING you’d need to do to it.
We all know how to do basic mechanic work, right? Brakes, drivelines, whatever. But it’s not a “deal” if 9 out of those 10 “hidden” details aren’t done.
That’s how I always look at it.
Rustoleum rebuilds get a zero or negative $ add. Even if you got the chrome dome value pack air cleaner, valve covers, mater cyl cap and the ubiquitous “New Edelbrock carb and intake”. Lol.
What adds value is the little hidden stuff. Wiring all in order and everything works or at least has power to it when it should and not when it shouldn’t.
Things like exhaust, brakes, u joints, shocks, new radiator, rebuilt front end….these things add or detract significantly from the value for me. My time is worth something not to mention the parts. I’ll pay a little more to not be cleaning rusty fluids and **** off my shop floor 10 different times.
 

chevytech87

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HotWheelsBurban

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She’s clean!!!
She is clean.... The tailgate plastic cover is that big thing laying on the second row seat that's folded down. The spare tire cover is the pile of carpet. The hold down for the spare tire is that long bolt with the wing nut on it, but there's supposed to be a water plate that's formed metal, that the bolt goes through, that fills the space in the center of the wheel.
If you can get it for less, go for it. Offer a lower price, haggle a little bit, if you get it cheaper than the original asking price, way cool. All they can do is say no, but if the price is not listed as "firm" you have some haggle room.
 

89Suburban

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Of our family's 5 square body Burbs, 4 of them were the tailgate with power window. Last one was barn doors. The gate is much easier to load and unload, because you have a platform to stage things on.
Square Body Burb barn doors only have one position when open: wide and sticking out on the sides. One year Dad, my brother and I were going to some big event at the Astrodome complex and the parking lot attendants were bringing the cars in and lining them up just as quick as they could. The spaces were not too much bigger than our '90 Burb. I got the doors open and they almost got taken off by the car or truck coming in next to us! We had a wagon in the back we were bringing in, and had to open both doors to get it out.
Never had that happen with the 'gated Burbs.
I've owned several squarebody Burb's. 2 of them had the gate and I despised them. (And one was a manual crank window.) Such a PITA putting the window down every time I need to access the back, which I do on a daily basis. I like to swing that door open and be able to reach inside easily and farther than I can with a tailgate in my shims. And you can tailgate without the tailgate and be under shade/cover. But to each his own my Burby brother! :)

(BTW there is an adjustment on the barn door hinge straps to limit the open swing to 90 degrees.)
 

HotWheelsBurban

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I've owned several squarebody Burb's. 2 of them had the gate and I despised them. (And one was a manual crank window.) Such a PITA putting the window down every time I need to access the back, which I do on a daily basis. I like to swing that door open and be able to reach inside easily and farther than I can with a tailgate in my shims. And you can tailgate without the tailgate and be under shade/cover. But to each his own my Burby brother! :)

(BTW there is an adjustment on the barn door hinge straps to limit the open swing to 90 degrees.)
I never messed with the straps enough to find it, if our Burb had that. As long as we weren't in close to other vehicles or buildings it wasn't a problem.
I hear you on the reaching in; if I needed to get further into the Burb, I'd hop onto the gate.
My OBS Burb has a detent in the door check straps that lets them stay inline with the body, or be parked at a 90° degree angle to the body.
 

RecklessWOT

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No carpet, were there moisture issues? Yeah it's "clean" but so was the truck I bought off a sheetrocker that had compound all over the inside of it. Just because everything's not destroyed doesn't mean it's spectacular. I see a towel jammed into the passenger seat, is it ripped? As mentioned above, finding seat covers for a 'burb is nearly impossible. Also, why is the gate panel removed? Is there something wrong inside the gate? Those window tracks and latches are prone to issues (though I'd gladly deal with that over ugly ambulance doors any day, especially on a red truck it literally will look like an ambulance lol). Also, depending on how long that panel has been off, that is where the window seal is attached. Without that panel attached, the window "sags" in a little, and moisture gets in. Mine isn't screwed down either, but I make sure to lay it back into place every time I close the gate (i have to leave it off because one of my latches is messed up, I have to reach inside and pull on the linkage to pop the latch on one side).

It's a nice truck, but the paint is shot, the interior is "decent" at best, sure it's not torn to bits and missing everything bit it's nothing to start jerking off over either. And at the end of the day let's face it we're talking about a 2wd '87 Suburban (and a GMC no less, I like GMCs but in the 85-89 years they were pretty bland in the grille styling, though some will disagree most will agree. Chevy wasn't much better in those years, very plastcy and cheesy lookin, but to me that would still be a check in the minus column). If it really is RUST FREE and I mean awesome shape, not the New England definition of rust free (sure some surface rust is inevitable on a 35 year old rig bit there better not be any scale anywhere) I would pay 5 grand tops.

It is a nice truck, but $7500 is wishful thinking IMO. I wouldn't pay that, even here in the land of rust. I see stuff like that for sale up here even for 5-6k. Where you are I'd figure it would have been a lot less
 
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chevytech87

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305
No carpet, were there moisture issues? Yeah it's "clean" but so was the truck I bought off a sheetrocker that had compound all over the inside of it. Just because everything's not destroyed doesn't mean it's spectacular. I see a towel jammed into the passenger seat, is it ripped? As mentioned above, finding seat covers for a 'burb is nearly impossible. Also, why is the gate panel removed? Is there something wrong inside the gate?
These were all thoughts I had as well, I’m trying to get an in person look tomorrow or Wednesday, work permitting. I really appreciate the input! As far as the paint, it looks like it’ll match my truck, and shot is the correct description lol. But if there’s really no rust I can live with it for a while, until truck #1 is finished at least.
 

Grit dog

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^ You know what yer doin….just be well aware of the real world value of 2wd square square light burbs no matter how nice they are. Unless it’s of course an emotional must have purchase.
Look at CL up here in Western WA/OR a bit. From a value perspective, you could buy a burn like that and ship it to TX on a car hauler for less than the asking price of that one.
 

Ricko1966

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I didn't see anyone question or mention milage,or how much of its l8fe its been garaged,that would be a big part of the equation to me. Yes everything is rebuildable,replaceable,repairable, but an honest,rust free low milage burb IMHO is worth much more than a high milage time to replace everything,rattle trap with wind whistles everywhere from the U.V rotted seals..
 

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