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lol omg dude really....
Is there any hope for these tools?
- Thread starter bigcountry78
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knapmich
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EVAPORUST IS FANTASTIC!
Vbb199
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Yea, thats another one, atf
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Lol, it happened on accident. Like 15 years ago, I tossed a bunch of used specialty hardware in this tub when I was cleaning the garage. I don't recall what happened, but somehow I busted the lid and water collected in it for a while. I think the roof leaked on it maybe. I got pissed off when I found it, so just dumped a bunch of fluid in there after draining the water.
I've stirred it up from time to time. Tossed in at least a couple pair of pliers, a couple pair of vice grips and some more bolts here and there. I also put in a ring/pinion gear and a couple t-case inputs to keep them from rusting.
SirRobyn0
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I had never heard of evaporust. I just looked at it on amazon and 7,589 reviews and has an average of 4.5 stars. Says it is non-toxic and biodegradable. $16.95 for a gallon. wow.
As I suggested to the OP I've use Muriatic acid and had great results, but also I'm always open to a better way. I'd like to hear about evaporust. Do you soak rusty parts in it? Do you paint it on? How long for it to clean a severely rusted surface? Does it leave a protective finish behind? Thanks, I've got this stuff in my cart along with 24 bars of LAVA hand soap. Ya, ya I know it's old school but I still like it.
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@SirRobyn0 you too. when using the acids, what kind of container can be used and i would assume grips/handles of non metal materials like rubber, plastic, wood would not be wise to submerge.
SirRobyn0
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For soaking tools I have a plastic container. Most heavy plastics can handle acid, I mean that's what battery case are made of and the jug the acid comes in is plastic. I would try to keep rubber and wood out of it. It's not so strong that it'll burn you instantly. but you do need to be careful. Safety glasses and heavy rubber gloves at a minimum, no open toes shoes like I like to wear ect. I do have a container in my barn with the acid for soaking stuff, but when I did my radiator with the acid I did it outside.
I also keep a 1LB bag a baking soda, in the barn incase of a spill.
After I have soaked tools to clean them I set up a second tub with fresh water and baking soda already in the water. Dip them in that to neutralize the acid.
AuroraGirl
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is sodium bicarbonate then a base for most of the commercially available acids? I have a big thing of baking soda i keep sealed for such occasions. I have two scars from battery acid on my body lol so I dont play around with em. i have muriatic acid and sulphuric acid but it sounds like phosphoric might be the way to go.
I was asking about the other materials as far as handles go, prob would =have to hang them handle out of the acid if one didnt want to destroy them(ones that cant be removed, that is)
SirRobyn0
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Ya, I understood your question ok, I just started writing and never answered it. My thoughts are this. Most plastic handles would probably be ok, but I try to keep them out of it because I wouldn't want to get acid up the handle and later have it drain out somewhere you don't want it. I have no idea the effect on wood, I would image if left in the acid long enough that it would damage the wood. But Wood is porous and I wouldn't want it to suck the acid in so I keep wood out of it.
Another note worthy thing. radiator shops use to use muriatic acid to boil out copper / brass radiators, and I've done it as a home cleaning. But you don't leave the acid in the radiator for very long. You wouldn't want to soak copper or brass handles / tool ect for very long or the acid will attack it.
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Hydrogen Chloride of at least 20%. I use stuff called Poly-Zag, toilet bowl cleaner. Amazing stuff, but use it outdoors, with a respirator.
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5 gallon bucket and two 12 packs of Coke. You'll be amazed after a couple days. Even more amazing is how our stomachs can tolerate it without disintegrating.
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update on the molasses. 2 weeks at that ratio barely touched it so I put it back in for a day short of 4 weeks. World of difference compared to first run. Absolutely no rust in the barrel. Yes there's still pitting, but the rust is gone and can clearly see the rifling. As soon as I opened the PVC tube I could tell it'd done some good work. Never thought molasses could stink so bad lol....basically smelled like strong rusty water that'd been sitting for a few years.
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Electrolysis is the way to go. It's what restorers use when things have been rusted together for years. You just need a power supply and then you can do various coating and surface treatments too. https://www.amazon.com/dp/B07X2VZSL9/
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The easiest and cheapest thing to do would be to simply boil them in plain water for 30 minutes or so, then clean them with a wire wheel, brush, or steel wool. Just keep in mind that stiff bristles will remove details and ruin polished metal surfaces. More delicate surfaces require softer brushes, fine steel wool or a carding wheel. Boiling converts rust (ferrous oxide) into black rust (ferroferric oxide) which can easily be removed. Deep rust may require repeated boiling. Make sure to oil the freshly cleaned parts up. There is usually NO NEED to use chemical rust removers. If you occasionally need to remove rust from tools, parts, firearm parts it is probably better to invest in a carding wheel and some decent wire brushes than chemical cleaners. Plus, it doesn't stink so the wife won't run you out of the house if you boil it in the kitchen. https://www.brownells.com/gunsmith-...stainless-steel-brushing-wheels-prod6762.aspx
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