Irish's pickup from hell, the 454SS.

[HotRodPC]

That might be what I'm thinking of. The adjustable push rod checkers.

Uh Oh, Family Law Lawyer? That's usually not good news. So is that in NM where your parent's live? BTW, what city do they live in? My son is living in NM right now. Way down South of Santa Rosa at the Air Force base. He may be coming here for Thanksgiving. If he drives, and not far out of the way, I might be able to get him to snag them wheels and bring them here. Chances are it's to far, cuz that would be to convenient.

 

[Green79Scottsdale]

Take your time, breathe slowly, and don't worry about what other people are saying or thinking. Who really gives a $#!T about them. The wife should be understanding as long as it gets done right in the end.

There are break-in specific oils available. USE IT!! The viscosity is not really something use should be worried about. In that first 20 minutes or so of the first start up, the ADDITIVES are what matter. That is why you use the break-in oils, for the additives. I can't remember, did you go roller cam? With a roller cam, I have heard break-in is not nearly as critical as flat tappet break-in procedures.

You probably don't want to hear this, and hindsight is 20-20, but you should have checked your valvetrain geometry before you buttoned up the top-end. Those adjustable push rods are only intended for checking the geometry. From what I understand you only one to do both int. and ext. Figure out the lengths needed and custom order your solid ones.

Keep at it man, walk away if you have for a little bit. Deal with the little easy stuff first, then move on to the big stuff.

 

[Irishman999]

Take your time, breathe slowly, and don't worry about what other people are saying or thinking. Who really gives a $#!T about them. The wife should be understanding as long as it gets done right in the end.

There are break-in specific oils available. USE IT!! The viscosity is not really something use should be worried about. In that first 20 minutes or so of the first start up, the ADDITIVES are what matter. That is why you use the break-in oils, for the additives. I can't remember, did you go roller cam? With a roller cam, I have heard break-in is not nearly as critical as flat tappet break-in procedures.

You probably don't want to hear this, and hindsight is 20-20, but you should have checked your valvetrain geometry before you buttoned up the top-end. Those adjustable push rods are only intended for checking the geometry. From what I understand you only one to do both int. and ext. Figure out the lengths needed and custom order your solid ones.

Keep at it man, walk away if you have for a little bit. Deal with the little easy stuff first, then move on to the big stuff.

The entire valve train is roller, not as crucial to get zinc on everything but its still getting break in additive. I went with parts store brand conventional and Lucas oils break in oil not recommended for street engines. Its not good for catalytic converters but who gives a ****, I want zinc stuff all over my engine parts.

We got the pushrod mystery solved and its a damn good thing. I compared the lengths we got compared to the pushrods that came with the motor and learned it would have been a disaster.

 

[Irishman999]

I had 7 days to get it running, a quick trip back home turned into a huge ordeal. I got back so tired I was not very motivated to go work on it considering its freezing ass cold in the morning. Thats funny considering when I started this project I was roasting my ass off and sweating the whole time.

All that lacks now is 1 lifter, a set of pushrods and sandwich oil cooler adapter. She's even full of oil and ready to go.

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[Old77]

I'm looking forward to seeing you getting this thing running again. That's going to be awesome! Have you thought of lowering the stance just a little bit? Nothing drastic just something really mild like a 2/4 drop to give it more the hot rod kinda look? I think that'd be a great improvement and would also make it handle better if you did it right

 

[Irishman999]

I'm looking forward to seeing you getting this thing running again. That's going to be awesome! Have you thought of lowering the stance just a little bit? Nothing drastic just something really mild like a 2/4 drop to give it more the hot rod kinda look? I think that'd be a great improvement and would also make it handle better if you did it right

Thanks man! I am excited to see what happens, I am a real stress-a-holic and a alcoholic so this startup can go either perfect or really bad really quick. I feel like it will fire up and run with no issues, went over it with a fine tooth comb the whole time, probably why its taking so god damn long.

As soon as it runs I need to do some brake work, while I am at it I might as well do control arms bushings and ball joints. I thought about doing some belltech 3 inch drop spindles to get it in the weeds. I recently noticed the factory stance with forward rake is perfect so I am going to stuff the wheel wells with a bigger wheel and tire combo that looks aggressive and leave it stock height.

 

[Stroked]

Engine looks great man! I've got my fingers crossed hoping that all your hard work pays off.

I think bigger wheels and tires would help the look for sure. Those tires just seem disproportionate compared to the wheel well opening.

 

[HotRodPC]

The entire valve train is roller, not as crucial to get zinc on everything but its still getting break in additive. I went with parts store brand conventional and Lucas oils break in oil not recommended for street engines. Its not good for catalytic converters but who gives a ****, I want zinc stuff all over my engine parts.

We got the pushrod mystery solved and its a damn good thing. I compared the lengths we got compared to the pushrods that came with the motor and learned it would have been a disaster.

Really, the zinc isn't necessary for Roller motors, and if it's true it'll trash your Cat, then I wouldn't use it. It just might only partially clog your cat or partially melt down your catalyst and you'd never know for sure if you have a partial restriction in the exhaust. Of course I'd never heard that it harms Cats either. If it's indeed true, is there anyway you can take your Cat off for the Break In period, then clamp it back on after the oil change??? Cat's aren't cheap these days.

 

[HotRodPC]

I had 7 days to get it running, a quick trip back home turned into a huge ordeal. I got back so tired I was not very motivated to go work on it considering its freezing ass cold in the morning. Thats funny considering when I started this project I was roasting my ass off and sweating the whole time.

All that lacks now is 1 lifter, a set of pushrods and sandwich oil cooler adapter. She's even full of oil and ready to go.

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I think I got some pre **** on my leg. Uhhh well, actually my knee.

 

[Irishman999]

Really, the zinc isn't necessary for Roller motors, and if it's true it'll trash your Cat, then I wouldn't use it. It just might only partially clog your cat or partially melt down your catalyst and you'd never know for sure if you have a partial restriction in the exhaust. Of course I'd never heard that it harms Cats either. If it's indeed true, is there anyway you can take your Cat off for the Break In period, then clamp it back on after the oil change??? Cat's aren't cheap these days.

Im gonna take my chances, as rich as this thing was running before the swap the cat has already got its ass kicked. I like the thought of nickle coating the cam anyways, as well as piston walls and valve guides.

After about 500 miles I am going straight straight Lucas synthetic. I dont think it will trash the cat, its a brand new motor and I dont see how too much of the oil will be going through the combustion chamber, those are brand new rings and freshly rebuilt heads.

 

[HotRodPC]

Im gonna take my chances, as rich as this thing was running before the swap the cat has already got its ass kicked. I like the thought of nickle coating the cam anyways, as well as piston walls and valve guides.

After about 500 miles I am going straight straight Lucas synthetic. I dont think it will trash the cat, its a brand new motor and I dont see how too much of the oil will be going through the combustion chamber, those are brand new rings and freshly rebuilt heads.

You might get a little oil past the rings during break-in of the rings. It USED to be common to burn up to a quart of oil in the first 1000 miles. And prolly still common using Molly or Ductile Iron rings. They last a good long time, but are harder and take longer to seat nicely. You prolly have it already anyway being a computer controlled motor, but a good 195 thermostat works good too for helping break in motors. You want them hot but not overheated. Those rings need to scrubs the cylinder walls til they find their happy place.

 

[HotRodPC]

By request of Imann, this thread is back on for public viewing !!!

 

[Irishman999]

Picking up where I left off... As best as I can recall from memory and looking at pictures.

For fuel lines I ended up making my own stainless braided lines with AN fittings and earles adapters to go into the TBI. The engine made noise, turned out to be rockers hitting my aftermarket valve covers. A year later and it still runs great.

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Around bonus time, while everyone was financing **** they cant afford I went to Napa and got some new front end parts for the truck for a rebuild. I also got some Energy suspension bushings. It turned into a huge fiasco I dont have the energy to explain but the whole front end got rebuilt with the premium napa everything, energy suspension bushings, new brake calipers/hoses, bilstien shocks like it came with and to top everything of I painted everything with epoxy paint and sealed the deal with a home brew DIY alignment job I did with some string.

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[Irishman999]

At the moment I cant remember why I pulled the pan off my transmission but I did and tried installing a shift kit. Having no idea what I was doing I failed to connect the manual valve back to its linkage, that killed the transmission.

I went balls deep into a rebuild.

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Custom made trans cooler lines.

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[HotRodPC]

Picking up where I left off... As best as I can recall from memory and looking at pictures.

For fuel lines I ended up making my own stainless braided lines with AN fittings and earles adapters to go into the TBI. The engine made noise, turned out to be rockers hitting my aftermarket valve covers. A year later and it still runs great.

You must be registered for see images attach

Around bonus time, while everyone was financing **** they cant afford I went to Napa and got some new front end parts for the truck for a rebuild. I also got some Energy suspension bushings. It turned into a huge fiasco I dont have the energy to explain but the whole front end got rebuilt with the premium napa everything, energy suspension bushings, new brake calipers/hoses, bilstien shocks like it came with and to top everything of I painted everything with epoxy paint and sealed the deal with a home brew DIY alignment job I did with some string.

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Dude !!! All that money you spent on new front suspension, it deserves a full blown 4 wheel alignment on the rack. Even eyeball and string you can still be off many degrees. You can suppose your caster is in good shape only because the parts are new, but no way to tell without being on a machine, and shims does affect caster too. Do it justice and spend the $89 for a good alignment. Believe it or not, a good wheel alignment can improve performance and mpg.

Also be nice to know how you did your string alignment. So be sure to ask for a prinout on the before and after settings. Just for ***** and giggles.