Im stumpped

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Jims86

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Timing pigtail plugged In? If so, he shouldnt have failed the timing part. Its right there in front ofmhim on the emissions sticker.
 

Paulscrawler78

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That's backwoods jacktards for ya buddy he said it was fluxuating and the thermoistic house was on the truck but it must have slipped down some when I was driving.it
 

Jims86

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That's backwoods jacktards for ya buddy he said it was fluxuating and the thermoistic house was on the truck but it must have slipped down some when I was driving.it

Timing is fluctuating because the ecm is controlling timing. lazy ************ needs to pull the timing wire.
 

HotRodPC

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So the Air Injection is removed? High CO aka Carbon Monoxide is imcomplete burn, where HC aka HydroCarbons are unburnt raw fuel. HC's being low means there isn't any raw fuel coming out the tailpipe so it's hitting in all cylinders? How about the air filter? Dirty air filter wll cause high CO and still allow low HC. O or oxygen level is good so you don't have any air saturation to the tailpipe like a big hole in the muffler. I just wonder if the AIR not being hooked up or present is why the CO could be high? AIR causes a reburn of IMPROPER burnt fuel in the exhaust manifold as it exits the exhuast port, and then the Cat Converter should also cause a reburn or IMPROPER or Incomplete combustion also. Again, NO CEL lights suggesting the MAP or o2 sensor are bad? This will also cause high CO. Obivously you're going to have to instal the AIR injection system aka Smog Pump, so I'd probably fix all the visual stuff, make sure the air cleaner is clean, and don't put any additives in the fuel unless you know for a fact they'll be burnt off before testing.
 

HotRodPC

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Hey wait, am I seeing you failed Hydro Carbons at LOW idle too? That's unburnt raw fuel at idle.
 

Paulscrawler78

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The air cleaner is a freshly recharged K&N filter the air injection aka smog pump is hooked up and working proper as far as the map sensor goes it tested with the correct voltage o2 sensor looked brand new when I installed it and the HC's are high according to his test
 

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The air cleaner is a freshly recharged K&N filter the air injection aka smog pump is hooked up and working proper as far as the map sensor goes it tested with the correct voltage o2 sensor looked brand new when I installed it and the HC's are high according to his test

OK, so HI HC and HI CO are a rich condition.

And do this, GET RID OF THE K&N for the test and just go with a plain paper filter. Did you oil that K&N? To much will not allow air through, and being freshly oiled could be drawing that oil into the intake. I'd get that out for the test at least. Borrow a paper one or go buy one.
 

Paulscrawler78

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Lightly oiled and I blew it out with my air compressor like I always have and I don't have the finances to buy a paper filter and I'm the only one with this style motor and tbi
 

Jims86

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OK, so HI HC and HI CO are a rich condition.

And do this, GET RID OF THE K&N for the test and just go with a plain paper filter. Did you oil that K&N? To much will not allow air through, and being freshly oiled could be drawing that oil into the intake. I'd get that out for the test at least. Borrow a paper one or go buy one.

Its been sitting since 07' and then when he fired it up for the first time with this rich issue, it probably reduced the efficiency of the Cat quite a bit....especialy with 4 or so weeks of running for diagnostic purposes...hence my suggestion of taking steps to try to clean the Cat.
May want to check for functioning of the AIR diverter valve also, by simply applying 12 volts, and listening for a click.
 
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HotRodPC

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Yeah, I'd really want to get that K&N out of there for the test. I mean hell, even if you had to go to the AZone and buy one, have the test, take it back after you're done and tell them you have the wrong air cleaner, so you found an aftermarket set up at a buddy's house. Hate to suggest it, but a guy has to do what a guy has to do when he doesn't have the funds.
And for sure, if it sat that long, get that Cat cleaned up, but do also make sure you've burned off any additives you added to the fuel tank. Put in D, not OD and take it for a freeway drive, keeping the rpms up higher in the 2800-3000 rpm range for 10-20 miles. It won't hurt it a bit, but will get that Cat hot enough and with the higher rpms, blow the **** out of it. Also find the highest content alcohol or ethanol fuel you can find. Higher ethanol means less polutants. Checking the diverter valve is good too. Just cuz AIR is there, doesn't mean it's working properly.
 

Jims86

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Yeah, I'd really want to get that K&N out of there for the test. I mean hell, even if you had to go to the AZone and buy one, have the test, take it back after you're done and tell them you have the wrong air cleaner, so you found an aftermarket set up at a buddy's house. Hate to suggest it, but a guy has to do what a guy has to do when he doesn't have the funds.
And for sure, if it sat that long, get that Cat cleaned up, but do also make sure you've burned off any additives you added to the fuel tank. Put in D, not OD and take it for a freeway drive, keeping the rpms up higher in the 2800-3000 rpm range for 10-20 miles. It won't hurt it a bit, but will get that Cat hot enough and with the higher rpms, blow the **** out of it. Also find the highest content alcohol or ethanol fuel you can find. Higher ethanol means less polutants. Checking the diverter valve is good too. Just cuz AIR is there, doesn't mean it's working properly.

Yep, That diverter valve works off of a combination of Vacuum and ECM command...vac is a sure thing, the solenoid on the other hand......
 

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I'd almost be conficed the K&N can be causing the high HC at low idle. Then correct the issue HI CO which could be the AIR and/or Cat not reburning incomplete burns. Now all this is assuming no CEL light which should mean, MAP Senosr, Coolent Temp Sensor, Throttle Pos Senseor, and O2 sensor are all working properly.
 

Jims86

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You can run about a gallon of laquer thinner to a half a tank of gas, and drive it for 20 miles or so in 3rd or regular drive....get the ************ hot and blow it out.
The AIR diverter solenoid is the onlt electrical connection above the smog pump on that valve, which should have a vac line running to the throttle body. pull the plug and run 12 volts to it to see if it clicks.
 

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