Ignition Switch Adjustment

[LateOnTheBrakes]

Does the linkage push towards the firewall or pull towards the steering wheel when you turn the key to start the truck? I recently replaced the ignition switch and lock cylinder while I was in the column swapping turn signal and wiper switches. I would say about 50% of the time it will not start. It will click and the lights will go off on the dash.

I noticed the ignition switch has slots in it so it can be slid about 1/4" in either direction. I wonder if I'm not getting the full travel of the ignition switch.

 

[Goldie Driver]

IIRC, the tilt column will pull the rod and a non tilt pushes it towards the firewall.

Maybe try putting the switch in the run position, then hook the rod on and snug the bolts.

If you get a start and the accessory, you are good. If you get start and no accessory, well, that may be close enough.

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

I get accessory and on for now. If I hold it as far as possible it may or may not start. I have a spare tilt column in garage I was looking at. But my truck is non tilt.

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[Goldie Driver]

Assuming the switch is still good, try adjusting it so you have the switch as far towards the seat as possible.

Non tilt pushes the rod down, so hopefully that gets you enough travel.

Non tilt switches are different than tilt, but the wiring connectors are not- they are just end over end between the 2.

So, if you got totally desperate and froggy, you could switch to the tilt column.

A lot more work than a switch, though.

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

I'm pretty confident these switch is pushed as far towards the firewall as possible. Based on where the fasteners are in the slots. I assumed the rod was pulled towards the steering wheel. I will tear it down and do it again.

Do all the columns use the same fasteners to hold the ignition switch in place? The tilt column uses two hex bolts and one Phillips screw. The non-tilt had one hex bolt and one weird combination stud and a lock nut. No Phillips screw.

 

[Matt69olds]

The racks are known to crack and cause exactly the problem your having. If adjustment doesn’t solve the problem, you probably need to dig back into the column. Get it fixed before it breaks completely and the truck won’t start.

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This is what the rack looks like. The aluminum part cracks and takes more travel to move the ignition switch. Every time you turn the key, the crack gets a little bigger until it won’t start.

 

[Goldie Driver]

True, but the OPs is a non tilt, so FYI it looks a bit different.

Link/pic below.

non tilt saginaw column - Google Search

To the OP , I dont remember what the fasteners look like off the top of my head for the switch.

Seems like the older ones were bolts - the studs I could see if your column had a dimmer switch on it.

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

Both of my columns have the ignition switch and high beam switch mounted with the same bolts.

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

It didn't fit together well without using the stud. There is a gap between the two switches.

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[Matt69olds]

Assemble it with the stud in the rear mounting hole. Install the front bolt, but leave it snug. Adjust the switch so it starts and goes into the accessory position. Once you have found the happy place, tighten the stud, remove the front bolt. Install the dimmer switch using the nut on the stud. Adjust the switch so the dimmer works correctly. Then tighten the stud and bolt to lock everything in place.

 

[scrap--metal]

The racks are known to crack and cause exactly the problem your having. If adjustment doesn’t solve the problem, you probably need to dig back into the column. Get it fixed before it breaks completely and the truck won’t start.

That happened in my Monte Carlo. I was having to play with the ignition for a couple weeks to get it to start. One day my wife tried to start it and she finally broke it. I let her hear about that. Lol

Luckily it broke in the driveway.

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

That happened in my Monte Carlo. I was having to play with the ignition for a couple weeks to get it to start. One day my wife tried to start it and she finally broke it. I let her hear about that. Lol

Luckily it broke in the driveway.

It wasn't a problem until I replaced all the electrical components in the column. I was able to adjust it and it hasn't failed to start yet (knock on wood).

 

[LateOnTheBrakes]

I'm back to wondering if it's the ignition switch. It was fine for a few weeks and it's acting up again. It is acting similar to a vehicle that has a poor connection with the battery terminals. Just a click and the lights go out.

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The battery is less than a year old and has good voltage.
The terminals and wires are new.
All connections are tight and free of corrosion.

 

[born2Run83]

I'm back to wondering if it's the ignition switch. It was fine for a few weeks and it's acting up again. It is acting similar to a vehicle that has a poor connection with the battery terminals. Just a click and the lights go out.

xc_hide_links_from_guests_guests_error_hide_media

The battery is less than a year old and has good voltage.
The terminals and wires are new.
All connections are tight and free of corrosion.

Mine does exactly this except it doesn’t start. I have that same exact gauge cluster also. Not that that’s part of the issue. I changed the ignition switch and still will only allow the key to turn forward like this and only a small amount to attempt to turn the truck on. What Ever came of yours?

 

[AuroraGirl]

Mine does exactly this except it doesn’t start. I have that same exact gauge cluster also. Not that that’s part of the issue. I changed the ignition switch and still will only allow the key to turn forward like this and only a small amount to attempt to turn the truck on. What Ever came of yours?

if you went to your starter solenoid and cranked your engine (but just bypassing the column stuff) would it also do that?