Ignition Switch (Tilt Column)

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Robert Bare

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Sep 13, 2020
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81
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Location
MT
First Name
Robert
Truck Year
1978
Truck Model
k20
Engine Size
5.7
In reality, you are asking the switch to do something it was never designed to do. The full tilt up was only to get in and out of the vehicle. Later ones were better about this. Picked up a tilt column for plow truck from nephew, was a mess, rebuilt it. So I checked, yes will work all the way up, but is stiff, of course. Now need some snow to melt so I can install.
Anyway, when going through these, the gear set and slider cam are cheap to replace. The biggest thing, don't just slap some grease/or spray. Disassemble clean and remove all that hard as a rock grease.Especially on the ignition switch slider rod and actuator, even remove the tension spring and clean.Then lube. Use Deoxit on/in ignition switch, it is safe and leaves a lubricant behind.
 

Steelbuddha

Junior Member
Joined
Mar 16, 2024
Posts
16
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Location
Central North Carolina
First Name
Jonathan
Truck Year
1984
Truck Model
K20 (dump bed)
Engine Size
350
On a similar note without hijacking the OPs thread I have a question. My manual trans, non-tilt (not that it matters) has become quite tight to turn the key when starting. IIRC doesn't the cylinder rotate and a rod pushes the actual ignition switch located lower on the column? I'm just wondering which part would cause the resistance.
The rack and sector gear assembly is an extremely rinky-dink arrangement. Plastic sector gear engaged with a pot metal rack. Lots of opportunities for binding. What could possibly go wrong? The stupid parts cost about $8, but you have to take the whole steering column apart to replace them.
 

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