Ignition Resistance Wire-Needed or Nah

[Ricko1966]

I went the other route. Found a solid fuse in the panel and linked the blue wire from the distributor to that. I had it wrong at first and the truck wouldn't turn off because it was hooked to a battery fuseable lead LOL! Boy did I learn something tonite. Next step is to take that same lead and run it as power to a new fuse bank and wire all my needs from there on the proper fuses. Radio, fuel pump, lights for tach, voltage meter, auto choke and oil pressure and tach. Wish me luck. For now, that original wire is still running the fuel pump and auto chocke until the switch happens.

This isn't a good route to take. You are trying to pull way to much on one circuit. It's like plugging in a 4 outlet extension cord and plugging 4x six outlet power strips to it, and then plugging in 24 devices. If you want to run a second fuse box,wire it to the battery,if you need keyed circuits run a relay to the battery,to the key circuits you need in the fuse box and trigger the relay,or relays from the ignition switch,or alternator exciter lead,depending on if you need it just switched or only on with engine running.

 

[59840Surfer]

Good evening gents. Project Midnight, my restomod project for my dad is gearing to somewhat of a completion. I have removed it from the original shop to finish it up on the brightwork and minor details as I can on my own. So here is my dilemma. We put in a donor SBC 350 with some work done to it. We went with a HEI distributor system which is working fine. Truck starts, runs, etc. Just need a fuel pressure gauge to dial it in. My problem is I have this wire, that is somewhat pink in color that gets HOT after starting and remains hot. Like, melting electrical tape HOT and only while the truck is running. I have driven he truck a few times to break it in and nothing has happened which is good. But I know that is not a normal thing. From my research, I think this may be the original ignition resistance wire from when the truck ran a coil. Its a 1974 by the way. Is it safe for me to remove this wire from the set up, as whatever it is tied to may not be needed either. I'm just trying not to burn the truck down before I have a chance to present it to the oldman Let me know what you guys think.

That pink wire is a specisl resistor and is a specific length. It runs hot when it's working correctly .... that's its job.

Ignore all the dog and pony advice to test it ... with meters and rocket science. It's simpler than all that noise; they don't know the system

It drops the operating voltage to the coil once the engine is running and the key is in the RUN position.

If you run HEI, follow the wire to the first connection and tap the wire at that point to get the full 12V before it goes through the resistor wire.

No need for relays ... that wire will be hot at crank and run.

It typically is not used on an HEI system where the coil is designed to run at full battery voltage.

 

[Ricko1966]

That pink wire is a specisl resistor and is a specific length. It runs hot when it's working correctly .... that's its job.

Ignore all the dog and pony advice to test it ... with meters and rocket science. It's simpler than all that noise; they don't know the system

It drops the operating voltage to the coil once the engine is running and the key is in the RUN position.

If you run HEI, follow the wire to the first connection and tap the wire at that point to get the full 12V before it goes through the resistor wire.

No need for relays ... that wire will be hot at crank and run.

It typically is not used on an HEI system where the coil is designed to run at full battery voltage.

He needs relays for the other things he's trying to run,fuel pump and electric choke And if he wants to run a second fuse box as he stated he needs to home run it to the battery,not daisy chain another fuse box off of the ignition circuit like he intended to. If he needs to have switched power to the second fuse box that should be done from the battery with a relay triggered by the ignition switch or the alternator exciter wire. If he uses the exciter wire the switched circuits will only be live with the engine running.And I already explained the resistance wire,and it's purpose,where to rerun it and,that heat was the byproduct of the resistance,and he shouldn't be running the fuel pump,and choke coil off of it,and why.

 

[DoubleDingo]

He needs relays for the other things he's trying to run,fuel pump and electric choke And if he wants to run a second fuse box as he stated he needs to home run it to the battery,not daisy chain another fuse box off of the ignition circuit like he intended to. If he needs to have switch power to the second fuse box that should be done with a relay. And I already explained the resistance wire,and it's purpose,that heat was the product of the resistance,and he shouldn't be running the fuel pump,and choke coil off of it,and why.

But you don't know the system...oh wait, you do

 

[59840Surfer]

***edited by staff***

This post was edited because it had no purpose on the forum other than tearing down another member. I chose this route rather than fully deleting the post in order to make an example of 59840surfer.

If personal attacks continue, bans from the forum will be handed out.

Thanks,

GMSB Staff

 

[idahovette]

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[Old77]

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Corrections have been made

 

[DoubleDingo]

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It was a lengthy, nasty post, glad it was edited out.

 

[idahovette]

yeah, I got that, Shane, @DoubleDingo . Just didn't exactly know how to respond? Seemed pretty clear to me??.....and good job @Old77 , right on your toes....lol

 

[projectmidnight74]

Thanks gents for all the help. I will keep you guys updated on the progress.