Ignition HELP! [solved]

[84c10Tony]

Thought I read about a guy with a wire short, which fried two or three modules, replaced wires and fixed short, and replaced Made in China dizzy, all went well.

 

[crazy4offroad]

Just read the smokin wire lol, short? fusible link?, my 84 has a few of those broken sheath, dry cracked insl. wires...that could be the culprit and what it affected.
What crazy said, solder and heat shrink for sure, or really do it up with a new harness made by our guy here on the site.

Fusible link, you forget all about them things when you've eliminated them a long, longg time ago lol

 

[84c10Tony]

LOL, I did that once a long long time ago, fried something or other, fixed the short and replaced the wire with a new fusible, then things went back to working, lmao.
Hey crazy, have you ever tried an HK USP compact?

 

[crazy4offroad]

No I haven't. I think it would be awesome to have a gunshop with an indoor range that for a small fee you could shoot a mag of whatever firearm you're interested in. Have some "sample" handguns people can try.

 

[84c10Tony]

Too bad I am not closer, I am leoman57 on the gunsamerica.com site, you could try a few mags while we were there or where you plink, this HK compact will leave you drooling with a smile.

 

[84c10Tony]

Spanky, does the TDC and the harmonic balancer line up?, in case of chain slip, slop or balancer ring movement?, just some thoughts here.
And any progress on the pink wire?

 

[spanky55amg]

Ok. So tonight with pictures.

I put the engine at TDC and I assume on compression.

Then took note of what would be cyl 1.

Installed #1 spark plug.

Wired up spark plug wires as to what would be #1.

Tried to start and it sound like it was about to turn over but just misfired a few times. Stopped cranking. Started cranking and no misfires no run.

Tested voltage at battery. 12.2

Tested at coil 12.01

Tested while cranking 10.01
This should be enough to start the engine.

Tested with timing gun and the misses cranking. I could verify the timing gun is going off but it's so slow, I can't see the timing mark.

So, maybe I'm 180 off. Easy to check really quick. Cranks, no start, no misfires.

Ok. This is happening on 2 new distributors and this is what happened on the original distributor which is why I bought a reman distributor.

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

You must be registered for see images attach

 

[spanky55amg]

Sooooo

The only thing I'm wondering now is if the battery is bad. I guess I could take it to AutoZone and find out.

 

[spanky55amg]

As you can see, the pink wire goes to the weird white connector. The other wire goes to a fuseable link buttttt since I'm only getting a 2 volt drop during cranking, neither of those wires are bad.

 

[MrMarty51]

The post You are pointing Your finger at should be for cylinder no. 5
No 1 would be straight forward of that towards the carb.
Three more posts in clockwise rotation

 

[spanky55amg]

The post You are pointing Your finger at should be for cylinder no. 5
No 1 would be straight forward of that towards the carb.
Three more posts in clockwise rotation

If TDC were pointing to 5 o'clock. But it wasn't. TDC is pointing to 1 o'clock.

 

[MrMarty51]

When viewing the distributor from the back, no. 1 should be at the eleven oclock position, or pointing towards the no. one sparking plug, or close to it.
Unless someone has installed the distributor in anything but original equipment specs.

 

[74 Shortbed]

 

[spanky55amg]

When viewing the distributor from the back, no. 1 should be at the eleven oclock position, or pointing towards the no. one sparking plug, or close to it.
Unless someone has installed the distributor in anything but original equipment specs.

This is what we have been saying. The oil pump shaft isn't lined up correctly and with my gut surgeries, I canNOT climb into the engine bay and lay down and turn the shaft. I can get a screw driver in the hole but without being able to see what I'm doing, I have no idea what it's pointed to.


Soooooo the distributor can only go in one of two ways, correct? Correct. So it doesn't matter which way the rotor points as long as the engine is TDC. It can point at 9 o'clock and then I wire #1 at 9 o'clock.

 

[84c10Tony]

What Mr Marty said, and ffs, if that is an 84 engine, or close, forget about where shaft is for the moment, get to tdc on compression stroke, do NOT move crankshaft, make SURE timing mark on balancer is about 0 if not, double check why.
(use a dist without the vacuum advance, like what it came with oem, no cheapo, not also fits, the right hei without vac adv. providing computer still functioning with No shorts in wires etc.)

Drop dist. in with a drop of oil on O ring and new gasket, make sure rotor points ONLY to #1 cylinder, if it starts to clock to far, pull it back out a little and turn it back a little more (maybe a degree or two for a tooth) so when it settles, it is ONLY pointing to #1 cylinder period.
Do not second guess, overthink, reinvent the wheel, or re f'n wire sh$t...take your time.
Make sure rotor is on correctly too.

When this is done, make sure coil connections are right, make sure wires plugging under dist cap are correct and prongs not bent for missed connections, undercap connections are now closest to drivers fender, not 10-20 degrees off.
Also, lightly finger tighten hold down clamp, crank engine, when even close, if dist is not all the way down, it will suck right down...then you can torque down after timing.
So forget about looking to see where the pump shaft is, or aligning it with dizzy etc...Mr.M, Crazy or 74 said the same stuff, hmm,...we be smokin' same sh$t man.

I am not a Doctor nor play one on TV, use this info at yer own 'fn risk and no 'fn around...
Now for the fun, have your wife read this to you, and my other post too.