I broke my new truck

[Bextreme04]

I redid it a second time and soldered it correctly. But will look into a complete replacement; how does it join at the start with the bigger cable?

And today.... my electric windows won't go back up! This has happened a couple times, but now it is not going back up! Rain is coming! So probably a ground issue that I have to chase.

There are relays and also the switches are known to go bad. You probably need a multimeter or a test probe and start figuring out where you have power and shouldn't or where you should have power and don't.

 

[gmbellew]

I redid it a second time and soldered it correctly. But will look into a complete replacement; how does it join at the start with the bigger cable?

And today.... my electric windows won't go back up! This has happened a couple times, but now it is not going back up! Rain is coming! So probably a ground issue that I have to chase.

all pw switches share a common ground on a busbar on the kick plate above the emergency brake I think. could also be the switches or a wiring issue under the dash. I had some mouse damage cause me some pw/pl issues that were difficult to troubleshoot. also, the windows aren't on a fuse, but a circuit breaker. if somebody pushes the switch too long, the breaker trips. it auto resets once things cool down.

 

[Juan Cano]

I started sticking my nose in there. I pulled the socket plug apart that connects the door harness to I assume the power, etc. Stuck my test light and only the pink wire had power, maybe that's how it is. I don't have the time now to start on a long chase of possible problems, so I put it back together. Then the windows worked and I put them up in case it rains.

Will look at the ground plate. I did check on the fuse box there's a 30 Amp Silver plug which I assume was a fancy fuse, it says PWR WDOW or something like that. That passed the continuity test.

 

[75Monza]

PW issues also can be the wiring in between the door and the body.

 

[75gmck25]

Several folks suggested earlier that you should take it to a mechanic - Usually not a good idea!!

Most mechanics fix mechanical things and they really suck at troubleshooting electrical problems. They just pull and replace electrical parts (at your expense) until it works. If you need to fix an electrical problem you need a "mechanic" that specializes in electrical troubleshooting, and you might have to pay for several hours of work to find a very simple problem (like a bad fusible link).

For electrical problems its usually better to get a simple meter, follow a methodical process, and take notes as you go along. You don't need a degree in EE, but you do need to understand grounds, power, and switches and sensors, and how they work together.

 

[Juan Cano]

Yes; I am doing an online tutorial on the basics of automotive wiring so I can better test the circuits. Methodical + Notes, got it, thanks.

To add insult to injury, today when driving the truck, I had to honk at someone that cut me off and then the horn was stuck and beeping at the same pace as the hazard lights which also started going off. I pulled over and shut the truck off but everything was still going bananas. I pulled the fuse for the horn, so that stopped. But the hazard lights kept blinking and I finally figured out that they are on its own little board right above the gas pedal and I pulled the blue socket (flasher?) off and then it stopped. Always great to have a truck honking like crazy in a quiet neighborhood at 8am.

So obviously there is a short where the power from the hazards is feeding the horn (maybe, probably). What sucks the most is that is probably happening inside the steering column. Whooohoooooooo!

Thanks for the advice on the mechanic and the electrical place.

 

[82sbshortbed]

Sorry you're having all these problems. I hate electrical work. The po hacked a lot of my wiring and I'm dreading trying to fix it all.

 

[Juan Cano]

Also, yesterday I noticed that the switch to use your high-beams wasn't clicking, and basically my high beams were on but one of my headlights didn't work. (Remember I have 4 lamps). "I must have that dimmer switch in the wrong position". So I did that today, now it clicks on and off. My regular lights work fine, but when I click the high beams, one of the regular headlights turns off. I even swapped the headlight switch back to the original but no luck.

Wow.

Sure open a can of pandora's sardine box when I tried to fix that ******* dome light!!!!!!!

 

[Juan Cano]

Took a part the steering wheel column; tons of areas with melted wires. Now I am looking for a partial wiring harness or may have to get a new one and only use a portion.

Will look at the classifieds.

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[Snoots]

You may be better off going to a junk yard.

 

[gmbellew]

everything in the column is switch pigtails I believe. you should be able to buy new switches and they will come with the wiring.

 

[Juan Cano]

You may be better off going to a junk yard.

I think there's a place near me which I believe is parting out two of these trucks. But then my other side thinks I should just have new wires, why put 35 yr old wires back in the truck?

 

[Juan Cano]

everything in the column is switch pigtails I believe. you should be able to buy new switches and they will come with the wiring.

Switch pigtails? Do you mean I but a blinker arm and horn/ignition setup and will come with everything?

 

[Juan Cano]

Oh crap that is right!! You can buy the turn signal switches and it comes with everything!!! Thanks @gmbellew

 

[Grit dog]

Dude that sucks. You can thank someone not named Juan cano for that!
You’re right, just get a new wiring harness. I wouldn’t put in a junkyard harness if I had a choice.
Then you can brag to everyone at work that you just re wired your whole truck!