Hydro Clutch Pedal Assembly...from an S10?

[squaredeal91]

Good start. Replace the plastic bushings in the cross pins. I can see the post on the pedal is highly worn. You should weld that up and file it down so it's somewhat back to normal. I went full on nuclear with mine. Machined new stainless steel larger diameter crosspins, heat treated and polished. 1/4" thick nylon bushings and replaced the pushrod post with a 7/16" bolt. Cut the end of the master cylinder pushrod and welded on a 7/16" rid end. I have zero, play or deflection but more importantly I'll never have to deal with it again. I'm too old to be working under the dash at this point.

Got any pictures from that. Sounds like something I want to do to mine before I put mine in.

 

[SquareRoot]

Got any pictures from that. Sounds like something I want to do to mine before I put mine in.

It's been a few years and several cell phones ago. I have a thread with pics on here somewhere. I'll do some searching and see what I find.

 

[SquareRoot]

I found the pics of the clutch rod modification. I cut off and drilled out that worn out post on the pedal. A 7/16' fine thread bolt was tack welded in its place. So the rod end now slips over that bolt and secured with a nylock not. Eliminates the pin wearing out in the future. Did the same thing with the brake MC pushrod. Since the crosspins that hold the pedals on were corroded when I removed them, I replaced them with Stainless ones I had made. The paper thin plastic bushings the OEM used were replaced with 1/4" nylon bushings I had made. My machine work labor was free so it was worth the effort.

Not sure I can find pics for the mods to the pedal cross pins. Might have to use your imagination.

 

[83Burban]

Feel like I should start a new thread....but then again....maybe not. My NV4500 swap is mid swing. Probably overlooked some stuff in my haste. The flywheel I got with my swap was def for a small block. Just got the proper one. And like, I knew there was some bogus wiring in the dash....but.....this is some bull poo.

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Now.....
This pedal stroke looks off....do you need to move the pin? Am I good to just put a bolt through the upper hole? Are those pins readily available? Anybody know a P/N? I'm sure knocking that pin out wile in truck would suck.

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The clutch stroke lines up nicely I think.

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[SquareRoot]

The brake arm pin is different locations between a vacuum booster and a Hydro boost. Is the donor the same as yours? You can tell by the mounting bracket. One has 4 bolts (studs) attached going in the same direction and the other has two going the opposite direction.
Update. I just went out and looked at mine. I can't see anything on the inside. But from the firewall side, does your bracket mounting studs look like this? Mines hydroboost. If it were vacuum, that middle stud (blue head) would be facing the front and that's what the master cylinder would mount too.
Update #2: Found these pics on my phone. That last photo-that's your huckleberry.

 

[83Burban]

@SquareRootMy truck is hydro. But pretty sure it was converted to such by the pervious owner.

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Maybe with a custom bracket or bracket from a different application. The pedal assembly had all 4 studs so im assuming it came off of a vacuum boosted truck.

So....that pin/post through the pedal arm....are they had at the LPS easily? Or do I need to fab something. I could pull the pedals back out.....but that sounds....not fun.

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Feel like I should start a new thread....but then again....maybe not. My NV4500 swap is mid swing. Probably overlooked some stuff in my haste. The flywheel I got with my swap was def for a small block. Just got the proper one. And like, I knew there was some bogus wiring in the dash....but.....this is some bull poo.

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I don't envy that wiring in the slightest. Makes some of my trucks look fantastic when I got em!! compared to that

 

[AuroraGirl]

@SquareRootMy truck is hydro. But pretty sure it was converted to such by the pervious owner.

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Maybe with a custom bracket or bracket from a different application. The pedal assembly had all 4 studs so im assuming it came off of a vacuum boosted truck.

So....that pin/post through the pedal arm....are they had at the LPS easily? Or do I need to fab something. I could pull the pedals back out.....but that sounds....not fun.

looks like a gmt800 hydroboost

 

[83Burban]

looks like a gmt800 hydroboost

You know....that would not surprise me. Everything about this rig was Frankensteined.

Couple more hangups. The pilot bearing or bushing seems to have a good bit of play on the shaft. Its now looks to me that if the builder did replace the input shaft, it was with a used one. Looks ok I guess...but feel like I should go ahead and just replace it to be safe? Idk. Ive tried the pilot bearing that came with my LUK clutch and a doorman from the LPS. Both have a little more play than I would expect. But ive never done this before so I don't actually know.

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Now realizing that even no yes and NV4500 will drop straight into a truck with an NP208....but not my Frankenstein truck. My np208 had 27 splines....also.....

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This is the cross member that was in my truck. I dont know if it was original to the truck. That is an adapter for the cucv th400 to NP208. Guess its kinda pricy, but useless to me now. Pretty positive that this cross member won't bolt up to the NV4500 at least not without an adapter of some sort of adapter
X

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now this other cross member came with the sm465 swap. was cut up and cobbled back together.....i assume to fit their exhaust...but now it hita mine. Can anybody tell me for certain which cross member I need?.

 

[AuroraGirl]

You know....that would not surprise me. Everything about this rig was Frankensteined.

Couple more hangups. The pilot bearing or bushing seems to have a good bit of play on the shaft. Its now looks to me that if the builder did replace the input shaft, it was with a used one. Looks ok I guess...but feel like I should go ahead and just replace it to be safe? Idk. Ive tried the pilot bearing that came with my LUK clutch and a doorman from the LPS. Both have a little more play than I would expect. But ive never done this before so I don't actually know.

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Now realizing that even no yes and NV4500 will drop straight into a truck with an NP208....but not my Frankenstein truck. My np208 had 27 splines....also.....

You must be registered for see images attach

This is the cross member that was in my truck. I dont know if it was original to the truck. That is an adapter for the cucv th400 to NP208. Guess its kinda pricy, but useless to me now. Pretty positive that this cross member won't bolt up to the NV4500 at least not without an adapter of some sort of adapter
X

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now this other cross member came with the sm465 swap. was cut up and cobbled back together.....i assume to fit their exhaust...but now it hita mine. Can anybody tell me for certain which cross member I need?.

the short foot adapter on the curvy crossmember will give you better exhaust clearance and is stronger design adapter (if your Nv swap uses the adapter as is?) you may have to move the crossmember foreward or back in order to match where the transmission demands it.

 

[SquareRoot]

Sorry I wasn't seeing this thread for some reason. A couple things; You may need to swap the brake arm for the one with the higher pin location to get the geometry correct. Or, remove the existing one and modify it.
I don't know if the 85 and 85 crossmembers are different or if they are different between the K10 & K20. Mine has the "W" style. With the NV4500 there is no adapter anymore. The mount on the trans rear housing uses the factory NV4500 mount and bolts directly to the X member. I also had that adapter/foot thing on mine for the turbo 400-NP208 setup. It has value. I recently sold it on FB for $100.

Regarding the pilot bearing. If you have a mic, the input shaft tip should be .590. If the bearing/bushing has any play when installed on the shaft, replace it now. Trust me on this. The input shaft is fairly easy to replace. You don't have to disassemble the trans to do it. You run the risk of hard shifting otherwise and it's a LOT of work pulling everything apart just for that bearing.

 

[83Burban]

Sorry I wasn't seeing this thread for some reason. A couple things; You may need to swap the brake arm for the one with the higher pin location to get the geometry correct. Or, remove the existing one and modify it.
I don't know if the 85 and 85 crossmembers are different or id they are different between the K10 & K20. Mine has the "W" style. With the NV4500 there is no adapter anymore. The mount on the trans uses the factory NV4500 mount and bolts directly to the X member. I also had that adapter/foot thing on mine for the turbo 400-NP208 setup. It has value. I recently sold it on FB for $100.

Regarding the pilot bearing. If you have a mic, the input shaft tip should be .590. If the bearing/bushing has any play when installed on the shaft, replace it now. Trust me on this. The input shaft is fairly easy to replace. You don't have to dissasembe the trans to do it. You run the risk of hard shifting otherwise and it's a LOT of work pulling everything apart just for that bearing.

Im looking for one of the W cross members now but not looking very promising. So sad that the one I got with my swap was all cut up. Really wish I'd worked on or even looked at one of these trucks that hadn't been completely molested. My ignorance has been the hardest part of this swap to deal with so far. The labor has been breezy.

Will probably end up just making a spacer for the flat member that came out of my rig. Will at least guarantee that nothing interferes with my exhaust. Although.... I'm pretty certain the W would not interfere either. Generally speaking I do try not to "fab" what already exists if it can be had fairly easily.

As far as the pedal goes. Ive not found a single pedal that has the pin the proper location. The pedal already has both holes in it. So we are just making a custom pin for it grinding down a grade 8 bolt.

 

[83Burban]

Finally found a video that shows some one slipping a pilot bearing on the shaft of a NV4500. Mine def has too much play. Just makes me sad that people are so willing to lie for a few extra dollars. Still going to mic it when I get back out to the shop this evening.....But I knew in my gut the moment I slipped it on the shaft that was too much play

 

[AuroraGirl]

Im looking for one of the W cross members now but not looking very promising. So sad that the one I got with my swap was all cut up. Really wish I'd worked on or even looked at one of these trucks that hadn't been completely molested. My ignorance has been the hardest part of this swap to deal with so far. The labor has been breezy.

Will probably end up just making a spacer for the flat member that came out of my rig. Will at least guarantee that nothing interferes with my exhaust. Although.... I'm pretty certain the W would not interfere either. Generally speaking I do try not to "fab" what already exists if it can be had fairly easily.

As far as the pedal goes. Ive not found a single pedal that has the pin the proper location. The pedal already has both holes in it. So we are just making a custom pin for it grinding down a grade 8 bolt.

Whats wrong with your crossmember?

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It mounts the same as the W but it doesnt drop on both sides

 

[Rustisbest]

Once the needle bearing style wear out it ruins the input shaft. Yours looks like it's been cleaned up to hide the damage. I wouldn't use anything but a bronze bushing when you get it fixed.