How to send power to window switch for testing?

[Camar068]

going through this now. With a plug ran directly from the motor to battery.....it hauls arse (about 3 seconds). On the harness, it takes about 7 (guessing) seconds to go up or down. I've got the relay upgrade installed also. Almost at a loss because the harness I built is above the quality that LMC sells. My only guess, for me anyway, would be heavier gauge wire and heavier duty relays.......the truck harness/switches are basically a signal at this point.

Thought I'd share.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

going through this now. With a plug ran directly from the motor to battery.....it hauls arse (about 3 seconds). On the harness, it takes about 7 (guessing) seconds to go up or down. I've got the relay upgrade installed also. Almost at a loss because the harness I built is above the quality that LMC sells. My only guess, for me anyway, would be heavier gauge wire and heavier duty relays.......the truck harness/switches are basically a signal at this point.

Thought I'd share.

Yeah it's kind of a tough repair because it's inside the freakin' door. And don't drop any screws or anything, might have a hard time getting them back out. Although yours sounds like maybe it's binding up.

But your post highlights why I wanted to run power straight to the motor while everything is still all assembled in the door. If it's fast, you know it wasn't binding. Then your only job is to use better wire or something, do something to get more power to the motor.

 

[gmbellew]

going through this now. With a plug ran directly from the motor to battery.....it hauls arse (about 3 seconds). On the harness, it takes about 7 (guessing) seconds to go up or down. I've got the relay upgrade installed also. Almost at a loss because the harness I built is above the quality that LMC sells. My only guess, for me anyway, would be heavier gauge wire and heavier duty relays.......the truck harness/switches are basically a signal at this point.

Thought I'd share.

isn't the relay also getting power directly from the battery to power the window?

 

[AuroraGirl]

isn't the relay also getting power directly from the battery to power the window?

but its not going through as much voltage drop points and is very much direct. Also the switch itself carrying the load vs the relay passing the load and the switch only doing minor. Lots of places for corrosion, connections, wire gauge to cause problems

 

[dvdswan]

power window relay mod

I was wondering if someone could help me out. Im wanting to do the power window relay mod, my problem is im not positive on what wires to tap into and what not. could anyone help a brother out and let me know what wires do what and which ones i tap into. It would also be a huge help if you could...

www.gmsquarebody.com

 

[Camar068]

but its not going through as much voltage drop points and is very much direct. Also the switch itself carrying the load vs the relay passing the load and the switch only doing minor. Lots of places for corrosion, connections, wire gauge to cause problems

exactly why I haven't wired the passenger door yet.....I may have one passenger for one short trip a year. It can wait until I get it right.

 

[Camar068]

Yeah it's kind of a tough repair because it's inside the freakin' door. And don't drop any screws or anything, might have a hard time getting them back out. Although yours sounds like maybe it's binding up.

But your post highlights why I wanted to run power straight to the motor while everything is still all assembled in the door. If it's fast, you know it wasn't binding. Then your only job is to use better wire or something, do something to get more power to the motor.

agree. That's why I posted about taking the connector that goes to the motor and running it straight to a spare battery, or vehicle battery, and run it to eliminate electrical.

If it's not a daily driver, cut that connector off the harness and try it with battery power. You'll probably end up running relays anyway, so you'll have to hack it in the future anyway. Cut the passenger side if it's a daily so you can get by until you figure out if it's mechanical or electrical.

Few thoughts you probably already went through.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

agree. That's why I posted about taking the connector that goes to the motor and running it straight to a spare battery, or vehicle battery, and run it to eliminate electrical.

If it's not a daily driver, cut that connector off the harness and try it with battery power. You'll probably end up running relays anyway, so you'll have to hack it in the future anyway. Cut the passenger side if it's a daily so you can get by until you figure out if it's mechanical or electrical.

Few thoughts you probably already went through.

Yes I thought about doing this.. might still do it.

But can't you run power from the battery to the motor without cutting off the plug? I have that Power Probe thing and it has a prong where you can send power (or ground) to whatever you want. Obviously you gotta be pretty careful when using that function. But it should work fine for this job now that I know to only use it on the blue wire, or the brown (tan) wire.

I just like to pretend I'm one of those professional mechanics who does exactly the right thing

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[Camar068]

Yes I thought about doing this.. might still do it.

But can't you run power from the battery to the motor without cutting off the plug? I have that Power Probe thing and it has a prong where you can send power (or ground) to whatever you want. Obviously you gotta be pretty careful when using that function. But it should work fine for this job now that I know to only use it on the blue wire, or the brown (tan) wire.

I just like to pretend I'm one of those professional mechanics who does exactly the right thing

You must be registered for see images attach

you'll need 2 probes.....positive and negative. With the plug cut off lets say in the middle of the wire (plenty of room to splice back into), you just switch the wires from positive/negative to negative/positive. Nothing meant but I don't know ur knowledge of electronics.

 

[AuroraGirl]

exactly why I haven't wired the passenger door yet.....I may have one passenger for one short trip a year. It can wait until I get it right.

If I had a passenger door id try and make it have a manual backup. no idea if possible. but if I was using a square daily the only window that would be electric would be passenger Lol. I can crank the driver and keep complexity down in my book.

 

[Camar068]

If I had a passenger door id try and make it have a manual backup. no idea if possible. but if I was using a square daily the only window that would be electric would be passenger Lol. I can crank the driver and keep complexity down in my book.

lol honestly....with the drivers door.....after a month I still have a hard time leaving the truck running while I "roll" it up. Good reason I haven't gotten rid of the old doors and say 4ark it and stay manual.

Get rid of the dung and go old school? Hell I can roll it up faster 4FS. We'll see.

 

[PhotonFanatic]

Well thanks to all for the help. I pretty much have it figured out now. I'm going to replace all the felts. Got all the glass out. Just waiting on felts to arrive. The old felt had some bald spots I couldn't see until I had it out of there. The glass might be dragging on those.

Someone mentioned the manual cranks being less complex... Here's my experience!

The manuals still fail plenty. I've had two trucks where the manual window died. One I bought broken and the other truck the regulator bit the dust and had to be replaced. I didn't want to fight with it endlessly, trying to get it bent back just right. And one of the rollers was kind of ate up. Unless you like digging around in the door a lot, it's best to just get a new one. I had another one where the hand crank crank broke when I was rolling the window up. The manuals do give out eventually. So I figure why not have luxury if you're going to have to replace stuff eventually anyway.

Still takes like 10-15 years for power windows to die. Well worth it for push button the whole time. Especially when you make them one-touch like a newer vehicle:

https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00H4N1Y2O/

I was in the process of installing that when I had to stop and fix this passenger window problem. The module can't be properly programmed unless the window is running smooth.

 

[dusterdude]

That thing is cool,its on my list

 

[PhotonFanatic]

That thing is cool,its on my list

Yeah I can already tell it's gonna be cool. When I was programming it (very easy to do) the driver's side worked just like a newer vehicle does. It will be real nice at the drive thru when you need the window to just go down on it's own. That's where I've noticed the old windows the most. You're sitting there holding the button down, and they're handing stuff out to you, but you really need two hands to grab the food/drinks. But you only have one. This thing is a good remedy for that.

Having to hold the button down is from ancient dinosaur times!

 

[PhotonFanatic]

Now if I can just come up with a way to get "Auto" embossed onto the switch. That might involve a 3D printer.