How to lean a Edelbrock 1406?

[82sbshortbed]

Ok, my carb is running way rich. I keep hearing how easy these things are to adjust and tune but, I'm not sure how to go about it. I pulled a plug to look at and I think it's fouling them being such a rich mixture.

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I'm guessing it's the two screws on each side of the brake booster hose in front.

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I read the sticky post on these and that chart and **** is like German to me. I don't get any of it. Lol

It won't idle any more and blows black smoke when I rev it. When I shut it off you can smell the gas so I know it's too rich. It always started right up before and would sit and idle before no problem.

Ever since I drove it to work and back it started doing this and I haven't changed nothing in it. I thought I'd try and lean it out before pulling it and swapping it out.

Idk what the **** I'm doing so any info will be appreciated. Thanks

 

[AuroraGirl]

Ok, my carb is running way rich. I keep hearing how easy these things are to adjust and tune but, I'm not sure how to go about it. I pulled a plug to look at and I think it's fouling them being such a rich mixture.

You must be registered for see images attach

I'm guessing it's the two screws on each side of the brake booster hose in front.

You must be registered for see images attach

I read the sticky post on these and that chart and **** is like German to me. I don't get any of it. Lol

It won't idle any more and blows black smoke when I rev it. When I shut it off you can smell the gas so I know it's too rich. It always started right up before and would sit and idle before no problem.

Ever since I drove it to work and back it started doing this and I haven't changed nothing in it. I thought I'd try and lean it out before pulling it and swapping it out.

Idk what the **** I'm doing so any info will be appreciated. Thanks

is your timing proper? If you adjust your settings I think you need to use a vac gauge to properly tune it all in.

or ask rusty, he will tell you ints inherently flawed and get a holley

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I've always struggled with this as well. And have always had the edelbrocks. From what I understand, those two front screws only adjust the idle circuit. As for adjusting the running circuits you'll want this kit for all the parts needed to make those adjustments.

https://www.edelbrock.com/performer-series-calibration-kit-for-1406-carburetors-1487.html

Also give this video a watch and see if it helps any.

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Hope this helps.

Edit: also worth mentioning. With these carbs you want a fuel pressure regulator. Otherwise they run pig rich. Because too much pressure in causes them to push too much fuel past the needles/floats or whatever.

 

[Paladin]

Not up on these type primitive carbs but...................ya could'a had a HOLLEY!!!

 

[Big Chip]

My Chevelle was having the same issue. I adjusted the float levels and it finally started right and didn’t always smell like gas.

 

[dsteelejr]

I run an Edelbrock AVS2 #1906 on my 454 and had problems with running rich and the exhaust at idle smelling like raw gasoline.

If you haven't already, first thing to look at is the fuel system because if you don't have correct fuel pressure to the carb you'll never, ever get it properly tuned. Edelbrock carbs like to have about 6psi of fuel pressure, 6.5psi max. A stock mechanical fuel pump can put out way more. Mine was putting out 8psi. This will feed too much fuel to the carb and overfill the bowls and cause it to run rich. If you don't address this problem first you will never, ever get it to properly tune.

I used a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure gauge, part #1561, to verify the pressure. After I saw it was 8psi I bought a Mr. Gasket fuel pressure regulator with fuel return, part #2015. I bought some fittings and put it all together. I'm running a stock mechanical pump with the three port fuel pump (with the return). I T'ed in the fuel return coming off the regulator with the fuel return of the fuel pump. This served two purposes: (1) got the correct fuel pressure for the carb, which had an immediate improvement without any other tuning modifications done to he carb and (2) drastically cut down on vapor lock issues with the fuel constantly circulating.

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[dsteelejr]

After posting my comment, I remembered that Edelbrock makes their own mechanical, drop in replacement fuel pumps designed to work with their carbs, which only put out 6 psi. You can search on their webpage for them. However, those pumps are about $130 - $150 each. I don’t feel it’s economically justified to spend that much on one fuel pump. The whole regulated return style system I made, including the hoses and fittings, was much less than the cost of one Edelbrock fuel pump, with the added bonus of the fuel return. Fuel return won’t work as well if the pump is putting out the correct pressure. You’re better off ditching the dead head fuel system and going with a return style system.

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I second the importance of a regulator on these. I went with the holley type, a gauge and an fitting in my whatever fuel line thing with a in line filter. I didnt run a T like dsteer explains tho. I figure the pump has a return to send any extra fuel back to the tank and the regulator will just restrict the pressure (probably wrong way of thinking but its worked well)

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[82sbshortbed]

I second the importance of a regulator on these. I went with the holley type, a gauge and an fitting in my whatever fuel line thing with a in line filter. I didnt run a T like dsteer explains tho. I figure the pump has a return to send any extra fuel back to the tank and the regulator will just restrict the pressure (probably wrong way of thinking but its worked well)

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I like your air filter. What is that one?

 

[82sbshortbed]

Y'all have brought up an interesting point about the fuel pump. The old 305 had a return line on the pump when I bought a new one. The truck has a line on it too. The BBC has a new pump but, it doesn't have a return line on it tho. So the line is just not hooked up.

So should I go get a new pump with a return on it? Would that help?

 

[Paladin]

So should I go get a new pump with a return on it? Would that help?

Would definitely help preventing vapor lock!!!

 

[Dutch Rutter]

I like your air filter. What is that one?

I used this one from summit for the lid. Keyword is a spun aluminum lid. I did have to file some sharper edges down which wasent a big deal.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all26090

They have lowers as well but im only running a 14"x3" round paper filter with a outerwear pre filter. My base has a rounded inlet for the air to come into the carb but no drop. With the 1" plastic spacer, high rise intake, and the bubble like lid I'm sure its getting close to the hood but I haven't tapped it yet.

Here's a farther away shot of the whole thing.

I would also suggest getting a different fuel pump with the 3 ports if the tanks are plumbed for it. Especially if you end up adding a regulator.

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[dsteelejr]

So should I go get a new pump with a return on it? Would that help?

I second what Paladin said. It would help with vapor lock and probably relieve some of the pressure if you went with a dead head style fuel pressure regulator.

My goal with the return style regulator was to get the return point as close to the carburetor as possible. The shorter the length of line that the gas sits or moves slowly in, the less the chances of it heating up and vapor locking. The fuel pump gets hot and heats up the gas too, which is another reason I wanted the return point further up the line to keep the gas circulating and cool. Also, to combat vapor lock I use an Edelbrock insulating carb spacer, part # 8723 to inhibit heat soak. That is the tan spacer under my carb you can see in my pic from my previous post.

 

[dsteelejr]

I used this one from summit for the lid. Keyword is a spun aluminum lid. I did have to file some sharper edges down which wasent a big deal.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aaf-all26090

They have lowers as well but im only running a 14"x3" round paper filter with a outerwear pre filter. My base has a rounded inlet for the air to come into the carb but no drop. With the 1" plastic spacer, high rise intake, and the bubble like lid I'm sure its getting close to the hood but I haven't tapped it yet.

Here's a farther away shot of the whole thing.

I would also suggest getting a different fuel pump with the 3 ports if the tanks are plumbed for it. Especially if you end up adding a regulator.

You must be registered for see images attach

I give you props. You have a good looking setup. I’m getting slightly off topic here, but I have to ask. I’ve pulled the engine out of my square and about to drop a reman in and I found some sharp looking valve covers I would love to use instead of the stock ones, but like yours there is no oil filler cap. How or where do you add oil?

 

[82sbshortbed]

Never heard of valve covers without an oil filler cap. Pics?

Dutch rutter has one on the pass side back by the firewall.