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You're my hero!! 
How to fix loose gm steering column
- Thread starter 89Suburban
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austinado16
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Super nice job on the pictures and explanation!!
I had to do mine about a year ago. What a pain in the a$$. My return spring on the shift lever had also broken, so that came apart as well.
Quick question for you; since doing mine, my ignition switch no longer "locks" and it can now be rotated/used without the key. What did I screw up?
BTW, love the front bench seat. Been going back and forth about how I DO and DON'T want one. Hate to loose the head and arm rests of the captain's chairs, as well as the big console, but would love the extra seat so our daughter could hang out up front with us. But, the no center shoulder harness thing, combined with the no headrest thing keeps me from making the move.
I had to do mine about a year ago. What a pain in the a$$. My return spring on the shift lever had also broken, so that came apart as well.
Quick question for you; since doing mine, my ignition switch no longer "locks" and it can now be rotated/used without the key. What did I screw up?
BTW, love the front bench seat. Been going back and forth about how I DO and DON'T want one. Hate to loose the head and arm rests of the captain's chairs, as well as the big console, but would love the extra seat so our daughter could hang out up front with us. But, the no center shoulder harness thing, combined with the no headrest thing keeps me from making the move.
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I have the same problem with my shift lever, it is really floppy like that spring broke or is missing. I have no idea what it looks like in there or how to fix that. My problem is putting it back together, I think the linkage rod for the high beams got tweaked, and now I can't get it set up right, it's acting like it is too short. So I got to tear it apart again, I just got too hot and pissed off. And I got the replace that white ring piece for the horn connection.
Where did you find info to repair the shift lever?
As far as the key cylinder, I think that issue is just the lock mechanism itself, so you may want to replace it. If you look at that one pic of my lock cylinder, I think it is that green plastic piece sticking out of the bottom, I could be wrong though...
Yah, I love my bench seat.
Irishman999
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Good write up dude! I will be using this in the near future to do my turn signal assembly.
austinado16
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Look back on page 2 at photo 28 and you'll see the shift lever comes through the housing and has a finger at the end. Between that finger and the inner housing is a short and stiff little spring. Drive the pin out of the outside of the lower column housing where the shift lever pivots. You don't need to drive the pin all the way out, just drive it enough that the lever can come out. Fish the pieces of the old spring out with a magnet. Set in a new spring. Set the shift lever in place to trap the spring, and then pound the pivot pin back down through the shift lever. IIRC, I pounded the pin upward from under the column, and then back downward again into position after replacing the spring.
I need to address my ignition cylinder situation. I hate taking these columns apart...eventhough I purchased the GM steering column tool kit in order to make it easier. They're just a bitch, no 2 ways around it.
I need to address my ignition cylinder situation. I hate taking these columns apart...eventhough I purchased the GM steering column tool kit in order to make it easier. They're just a bitch, no 2 ways around it.
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That doesn't sound to bad then, you mean this pic and drive this pin up right? Where did you get the new spring from?
I am wondering if I can buy a new linkage rod for that high beams too....
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austinado16
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A local dealer had the springs. Probably a common failure item.
Yes, that's the pin in your photo above, but look on page 2 and message 28 for the photo showing how it looks on the inside of the column.
Mine had been loose since day 1, and then one day it was just completely flopping around......we're still talking about column shift levers right?.......so when I had the column torn down, I found the spring in pieces.
Yes, that's the pin in your photo above, but look on page 2 and message 28 for the photo showing how it looks on the inside of the column.
Mine had been loose since day 1, and then one day it was just completely flopping around......we're still talking about column shift levers right?.......so when I had the column torn down, I found the spring in pieces.
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Yah, column shift lever, ok I see the pic now. I'll have to see about getting some parts rounded up and looks like I got to tear this sumbitch apart again. Thanks for the info.
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austinado16
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Might be able to R&R that spring without tearing the column down.
-Drive pin up just enough to get shift lever out.
-Be ready with magnet to capture pieces of spring in case they want to fall out into the column.
-Retrieve spring pieces with magnet.
-Set new spring in with some bearing grease around it to hold it in place.
-Set shift lever into position, trapping spring, and being tapping pin back down into position.
I'm just sayin'....
-Drive pin up just enough to get shift lever out.
-Be ready with magnet to capture pieces of spring in case they want to fall out into the column.
-Retrieve spring pieces with magnet.
-Set new spring in with some bearing grease around it to hold it in place.
-Set shift lever into position, trapping spring, and being tapping pin back down into position.
I'm just sayin'....
crazy4offroad
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I've had the shift lever off my column for a while, the spring will come out with just the lever off which is why I left the pin in mine. However be advised the spring is a tough mother of a fatherless dog. Once you get the old one out and the new one in it is pretty tough getting it compressed far enough for the shift lever finger to go in. Not impossible but difficult.
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Watch out for this little bastard here. All the parts can pop right out of it and it can be a bitch to put back together again. I also think it's just the contact for the key reminder chime.
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Si Senior.
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Son of a bitch, great link here for column parts and exploded views!!
Don't know what is up with the pink though...
http://www.steeringcolumnservices.c...ick-cadillac-chevrolet-oldsmobile-pontiac.php
Don't know what is up with the pink though...
http://www.steeringcolumnservices.c...ick-cadillac-chevrolet-oldsmobile-pontiac.php
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There are 4 bolts inside the column that come loose.
You need to rent from your auto parts store a steering wheel puller (Don't use a hammer), a Lock plate removal tool and a pivot pin puller.
remove the horn pad. Remove the 13/16 nut from the steering shaft. If horn has wire great. If not remove the three screws holding the horn contact plates. Note there position. If equipped with button. grab black plastic protruding from the cancel cam tower coming out of the lock plate. Push down and turn counter clock wise and button will come of with black plastic retainer.
Remove steering wheel noting line up notches for reassembly.
Remove lower dash under the steering column as well as A/C vent. There will be a clip on the lower shift bowl under the dash with a string. Remove the clip. This controls your PRNDL indicator. Remove wiper switch wiring from bracket under column. Disconnect the wiring leading up to the collumn (three connectors). Remove the turn signal wiring connector from the column so that it can hang loose.
Remove the two 15mm holding the steering column bracket.
remove the 4 (13mm) bolts that attach bracket to column. Remove plastic sheathing from column that wiring goes through. You now will have enough slack in the wiring. Install lock plate compressor and tighten until you see the snap ring loose. Insert an awl in the opening while keeping tension with a flat blade screwdriver. Remove snap ring. Remove compressor. Remove the t/s pivot to left. Remove the 3 phillips t/s screws. Remove 4 way flasher button on outside of column with small philips. Pull up the t/s switch. Remove the 3 (50)torx. (Allen wrench will work too). Remove the key buzzer by pulling straight out. Clip may drop--no big deal. You will see it when disassembled. Remove #20 torx at ignition lock. Remove lock. Remove upper lock housing cover by pulling upward.
You will see the hi beam cover dangling over the tilt lever on left side. Remove the actuator (Black plastic) and set it to the side. Now you are looking at the bearing housing. Remove the spring from the shaft as well as the cage for the bearing race. Tilt the column to full up. Remove the spring by inserting a phillips into the square hole, pushing and turning counter clockwise. Remove tilt spring.
Take the pivit pin tool and screw into pivot pin. Once in, you need to hold the end of this screw with a wrench while tightening the nut. The pivot pin will come out and repeat on other side. Pull the tilt lever back and tilt upwards as removing bearing housing.
You will find the 4 inverted torx bolts that are loose. Tigten them with a 1/4 nut driver or if you want you can put lock tite on the threads first, but I have never had a column ever loosen up again. Tighten until the nut driver slips on the bolts. That way they are tight and not overtight.
Now, tou will have a looped piece of gray metal with teeth on it that goes on the left side of the bearing housing. Insert geared end while turning sector (Plastic gear in bearing housing so that big tooth opening fits in big grove tooth in sector. Once this is done and if sector spring became disconnected, pull on spring and reinsert it into slot. On the left side of the steering column you will see a rod. Pull this rod to the ON position where the radio plays. The loop fits on the end of the rod first. Then pull on the tilt lever and hold housing with two hands. Install houusing in full tilt position and wiggle until the pivot pins holes line up. Insert pins. Take a needle nose and turn the shaft where the lock cylinder went. See if the engine starts. If that all works install bearing cage nd spring onto upper shaft. Hold spring down and tap pivot pins in until flush. Install tilt spring and retainer by pushing and rotating clockwise.
Go under dash on left side of column and find headlight dimmer switch. Insert rod into hole.
Insert the High beam actuator into the groove of the cover plate with the circled end facing the rod. Hold cover against housing tight. Push on actuator to hear the switch click. install cover making sure no wires pinch. Line up actuator with an awl so it goes into the cover. Install the three torx and check hi beams. Insert ignition lock and turn with key until it lines up to go in. Install torx retainer screw. Remove key and take awl to push up on button of lock in key buzzer hole. Take the key buzzer spring and attach to key buzzer. Squeeze them together and insert into hole. Reassemble the rest as you tool it apart. You will be all set. The problem with a junkyard column is that you will have the same problem you do now with it being loose. This was a very common problem.
You need to rent from your auto parts store a steering wheel puller (Don't use a hammer), a Lock plate removal tool and a pivot pin puller.
remove the horn pad. Remove the 13/16 nut from the steering shaft. If horn has wire great. If not remove the three screws holding the horn contact plates. Note there position. If equipped with button. grab black plastic protruding from the cancel cam tower coming out of the lock plate. Push down and turn counter clock wise and button will come of with black plastic retainer.
Remove steering wheel noting line up notches for reassembly.
Remove lower dash under the steering column as well as A/C vent. There will be a clip on the lower shift bowl under the dash with a string. Remove the clip. This controls your PRNDL indicator. Remove wiper switch wiring from bracket under column. Disconnect the wiring leading up to the collumn (three connectors). Remove the turn signal wiring connector from the column so that it can hang loose.
Remove the two 15mm holding the steering column bracket.
remove the 4 (13mm) bolts that attach bracket to column. Remove plastic sheathing from column that wiring goes through. You now will have enough slack in the wiring. Install lock plate compressor and tighten until you see the snap ring loose. Insert an awl in the opening while keeping tension with a flat blade screwdriver. Remove snap ring. Remove compressor. Remove the t/s pivot to left. Remove the 3 phillips t/s screws. Remove 4 way flasher button on outside of column with small philips. Pull up the t/s switch. Remove the 3 (50)torx. (Allen wrench will work too). Remove the key buzzer by pulling straight out. Clip may drop--no big deal. You will see it when disassembled. Remove #20 torx at ignition lock. Remove lock. Remove upper lock housing cover by pulling upward.
You will see the hi beam cover dangling over the tilt lever on left side. Remove the actuator (Black plastic) and set it to the side. Now you are looking at the bearing housing. Remove the spring from the shaft as well as the cage for the bearing race. Tilt the column to full up. Remove the spring by inserting a phillips into the square hole, pushing and turning counter clockwise. Remove tilt spring.
Take the pivit pin tool and screw into pivot pin. Once in, you need to hold the end of this screw with a wrench while tightening the nut. The pivot pin will come out and repeat on other side. Pull the tilt lever back and tilt upwards as removing bearing housing.
You will find the 4 inverted torx bolts that are loose. Tigten them with a 1/4 nut driver or if you want you can put lock tite on the threads first, but I have never had a column ever loosen up again. Tighten until the nut driver slips on the bolts. That way they are tight and not overtight.
Now, tou will have a looped piece of gray metal with teeth on it that goes on the left side of the bearing housing. Insert geared end while turning sector (Plastic gear in bearing housing so that big tooth opening fits in big grove tooth in sector. Once this is done and if sector spring became disconnected, pull on spring and reinsert it into slot. On the left side of the steering column you will see a rod. Pull this rod to the ON position where the radio plays. The loop fits on the end of the rod first. Then pull on the tilt lever and hold housing with two hands. Install houusing in full tilt position and wiggle until the pivot pins holes line up. Insert pins. Take a needle nose and turn the shaft where the lock cylinder went. See if the engine starts. If that all works install bearing cage nd spring onto upper shaft. Hold spring down and tap pivot pins in until flush. Install tilt spring and retainer by pushing and rotating clockwise.
Go under dash on left side of column and find headlight dimmer switch. Insert rod into hole.
Insert the High beam actuator into the groove of the cover plate with the circled end facing the rod. Hold cover against housing tight. Push on actuator to hear the switch click. install cover making sure no wires pinch. Line up actuator with an awl so it goes into the cover. Install the three torx and check hi beams. Insert ignition lock and turn with key until it lines up to go in. Install torx retainer screw. Remove key and take awl to push up on button of lock in key buzzer hole. Take the key buzzer spring and attach to key buzzer. Squeeze them together and insert into hole. Reassemble the rest as you tool it apart. You will be all set. The problem with a junkyard column is that you will have the same problem you do now with it being loose. This was a very common problem.
