Hi guys :)

[RustyPile]

I think the reason the ad states "0" for rocker arm ratio is because all the dimensions are taken directly from the cam not the valve.. Therefore rocker ratio isn't part of the "formula"..

 

[RustyPile]

Perhaps that listing is just bunk? I mean it says it's not compatible with anything so idk either lol. I just searched Sealed Power CS-669 and picked that listing for it

I think the ad is truthful in an "OReillys viewpoint"..

 

[Mr_Ryumaru]

I think before I'd toss it, I'd "degree wheel" it.. As with any engine build, the cam is just a small part of the puzzle.. All the pieces have to fit (work) together.. Decide what you want the engine to do and then make calculated decisions on the various components..

Never done it before myself. I know it isn't very hard or complicated, just tedious and not always truly accurate due mostly to human error. Honestly might just spend more money I don't have pick up a different one just to avoid the hassle and know exactly what I have. Or I may just run the pig and see what happens, although I don't really want to change it later.

 

[Mr_Ryumaru]

If I do go with a different cam, any recommendations? Nothing to aggressive, after all this is a work truck/daily driver with stock internals.

 

[RustyPile]

I wouldn't say it's "tedious", but one must pay close attention to details.. But then in a past life I built race engines and using a degree wheel, for me, is just as simple as the reversing lever on a ratchet..

If you're interested in learning, you have the perfect opportunity sitting right there in front of you.. You don't need to "gasket" the engine.. In fact, you can do it without "real" valve springs.. the process is all over you tube, just beware of following the instructions of someone who doesn't know either...

 

[RustyPile]

If I do go with a different cam, any recommendations? Nothing to aggressive, after all this is a work truck/daily driver with stock internals.

Standard or automatic?? If automatic, are you opposed to changing to higher stall converter?? How important is gas mileage??

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Oreillys has some weird wording in their "spec sheets"

My point exactly.. BBCs like lots of lift and duration, but not much in the way or rpms.. Put Honkey's cam profile in a SBC and you'd have to add extensions to the graph paper to plot HP/rpm ranges..

I've seen some race prepped BBC with lift at the valves of over .700, but shift points around 6200--6500.. But sustained rpm certainly nowhere near that..

The one engine builder I know puts .900” lift cams in BBC regularly. Of course the are oversized cam journal dart blocks but they are huge lobes. These engines are usually O-ringed and boosted or sprayed.

 

[Mr_Ryumaru]

Standard or automatic?? If automatic, are you opposed to changing to higher stall converter?? How important is gas mileage??

She's a manual. Side note, if someone is messing with big blocks, I think it's safe to say they stopped caring long ago about mileage That said, I don't wanna kill it entirely. Just a cam that might wake the motor up so to speak. If I had to pick a rev range I'd say idle to say 5500. And if we could avoid lopin' the bitch out at idle that'd be preferable. I don't like fouled plugs lol

 

[Honky Kong jr]

I think before I'd toss it, I'd "degree wheel" it.. As with any engine build, the cam is just a small part of the puzzle.. All the pieces have to fit (work) together.. Decide what you want the engine to do and then make calculated decisions on the various components..

Or get another in the retro roller variety. Just my .02

 

[Mr_Ryumaru]

Or get another in the retro roller variety. Just my .02

Never actually done a cam swap, but I know the basics (Types of cams, the way they work, what changing them does). I could probably even find on that would work, however experience beats out guesswork every time. So, what cam might you recommend? Mostly stock motor, and I'm looking for something fun yet also usable on a daily basis. Truck will mostly be in town and offroad, doing work and playing, but may see occasional highway use and towing. A kit that had the cam, necessary springs, rods, rockers and lifters would be perfect. I'm also not rich. Far from.

I know thats probably a ridiculous set of criteria, and you really have no obligation to attempt to help the fool that is me, but any input is welcome

 

[Honky Kong jr]

Never actually done a cam swap, but I know the basics (Types of cams, the way they work, what changing them does). I could probably even find on that would work, however experience beats out guesswork every time. So, what cam might you recommend? Mostly stock motor, and I'm looking for something fun yet also usable on a daily basis. Truck will mostly be in town and offroad, doing work and playing, but may see occasional highway use and towing. A kit that had the cam, necessary springs, rods, rockers and lifters would be perfect. I'm also not rich. Far from.

I know thats probably a ridiculous set of criteria, and you really have no obligation to attempt to help the fool that is me, but any input is welcome

Not at all rollers are more expensive, but no need to worry about flattening a lobe either. I’ll poke around when I get home and post my findings.

 

[RustyPile]

I'm partial to roller cams simply because flat tappets are NOT compatible with today's engine oils. One has to use oil additives to bring the zinc level up so the cam can survive.. These additives will destroy a catalytic converter in short order.. Plus strict break-in procedures must be followed with flat tappets or the cam will eat itself up..

BBCs, by nature of their large displacement and other factors, are torque producing engines.. Select a cam (I like Lunati simply because they are made in the USA) that has enough lift but will not coil bind stock springs. And not so much duration that idle quality becomes unacceptable and with duration and LSA that doesn't "kill" manifold vacuum.. Duration and LSA have a direct bearing on gas mileage.. Although some fouling will occur, a carburetor that is properly tuned for the engine will not excessively foul sparkplugs during extended idle..

 

[RustyPile]

Never actually done a cam swap, but I know the basics (Types of cams, the way they work, what changing them does). I could probably even find on that would work, however experience beats out guesswork every time. So, what cam might you recommend? Mostly stock motor, and I'm looking for something fun yet also usable on a daily basis. Truck will mostly be in town and offroad, doing work and playing, but may see occasional highway use and towing. A kit that had the cam, necessary springs, rods, rockers and lifters would be perfect. I'm also not rich. Far from.

I know thats probably a ridiculous set of criteria, and you really have no obligation to attempt to help the fool that is me, but any input is welcome

Lunati has a series of cams they refer to as “bare bones”.. They are flat tappet design and I believe most of these cams will work with stock valve strain , but to be on the safe side, I’d use 7/16” pushrods..

First choice would be:

Hydraulic Flat Tappet. Good idle for daily usage or towing. Great low end and mid range torque.

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 280/290
  
  
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 214/224
  
  
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .501/.527
  
  
• LSA/ICL: 112/107
  
  
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
  
  
• RPM Range: Idle-5000
  
  
• Includes: Cam & Lifters (#71817PR-16)
  
  Part Number: 10110101LK
  
  My “less radical” second choice would be:
  
  Hydraulic Flat Tappet Cam. Great for daily driver or towing appli- cations. Works with TBI fuel injection. Smooth idle.

• Advertised Duration (Int/Exh): 270/280
  
  
• Duration @ .050 (Int/Exh): 204/214
  
  
• Gross Valve Lift (Int/Exh): .476/.501
  
  
• LSA/ICL: 112/107
  
  
• Valve Lash (Int/Exh): Hyd/Hyd
  
  
• RPM Range: Idle-4500
  
  
• Includes: Cam & Lifters (#71817PR-16)
  
  Part Number: 10110100LK

Both these cams are in the $130.00 price range for cam and lifters...

 

[RustyPile]

Something to bear in mind, and you may already be aware of this.. As displacement goes up, an engine is more tolerant of camshaft duration, in regards to idle quality.. In a SBC of 350 cu. in. a cam with the above specs would give the engine quite a "thumpy" idle.. If the transmission happened to be an automatic, a higher stall torque converter would be necessary..

 

[RustyPile]

The one engine builder I know puts .900” lift cams in BBC regularly. Of course the are oversized cam journal dart blocks but they are huge lobes. These engines are usually O-ringed and boosted or sprayed.

Oh, I've seen some of those beasts also.. Built totally from aftermarket parts.. HP above 1,000 - 1,200 (well above) with torque that equals those numbers.. Except for the stout hearted, not for daily street use.. And the cost --- I don't even want to go there..