Help with diesel tractor engine miss

[Red Rex]

What you have is an injection pump timing issue. I don't know your pump off the top of my head. But you should be able to find the procedure in the Perkins manual for your pump. You may even be able to find a video on YouTube to help.

The pump mark lines up exactly with the mark on the engine. Even so I did move it a width to the left of the engine mark. I will try it the other side. A little goes a long way. My Ford 4000 diesel, a 1968 model, runs a couple degrees advanced.

 

[Blue Ox]

The engine was running like a sewing machine prior to me pulling the injector pump due to leakage where the head goes into the body. Pump rebuilt. Tractor started the problem after the pump was reinstalled. Pulled injectors and had the pump shop rebuild them. Still no fix. Pulled tank no trash inside. Blew out lines. No obstructions. Tractor gets up to operating temp of 175 and does not over heat. I have run both a tiller and a bush hog so there has been a couple hours run time since doing these things.

How important is it that the vanes in the pump be the exact same material of the original ones? I do not believe that the replacement ones are.

I'm @$$uming it's a Delphi/Lucas injection pump.

Right now, Delphi has a national backorder on transfer pump blades, so either different part numbers are being substituted, or aftermarket parts are being used. But it's probably not the transfer pump vane material that's at issue.

it may be the timing of the transfer pump rotor in relation to the plunger pumping cycle. There's a tool used to index the discharge port and reference the orientation of the the rotor when it's installed in the head. If they phase incorrectly you need to try different rotors to get one that lines up correctly. And it's only an issue on three-cylinder pumps.

You're going to have to wait until I get back to the shop on Monday, then I can look up the specifics for you. Meanwhile if you can get the part number off the pump it may help.

 

[Midnightmoon]

The pump mark lines up exactly with the mark on the engine. Even so I did move it a width to the left of the engine mark. I will try it the other side. A little goes a long way. My Ford 4000 diesel, a 1968 model, runs a couple degrees advanced.

I'm not referring to base timing. I'm talking about the injection pump internal timing. Unless your pump is completely different than I think it is, it has to be assembled back exactly as it was when it came apart. There is a timing procedure for the pump itself that has to be followed if not.

This isn't for your pump specifically, but take a look at pg 41 of this manual and look under where it says "Adjusting the Fuel Injection Timing". It will be just below diagram PB096 where it show a picture of the shim and snap pin. Again, your specific model may be different since this is a manual for the 100 series Perkins. However, there should be a similar procedure for yours.

http://manuals.minutemanintl.net/PowerBoss/Engines/Perkins/Perkins-Service_Manual.pdf

 

[Red Rex]

Blue Ox & Midnight Moon I believe you hit the nail.

Lucas CAV pump.

RW52/800/6/2160

Thanks, I may need to take it back to the pump shop then or is this something I can do?

Picture of pump. There is no timing mechanism on the bottom of this pump like there is on my Ford 4000. It has a Lucas CAV pump as well

 

[Blue Ox]

Blue Ox & Midnight Moon I believe you hit the nail.

Lucas CAV pump.

RW52/800/6/2160

Thanks, I may need to take it back to the pump shop then or is this something I can do?

Picture of pump. There is no timing mechanism on the bottom of this pump like there is on my Ford 4000. It has a Lucas CAV pump as well

That's not the part number, it's the calibration code. That tells me max fuel delivery, full load RPM, governor spring position and max RPM setting but it doesn't tell me what pump it is. The part number should be at the top of the tag and will have a pattern like 3323F270.

 

[Red Rex]

Like 29305PY?

Tag has 0190 on top
Then RW52/800/6/2160
Then 29305PY below

 

[Blue Ox]

Like 29305PY?

Tag has 0190 on top
Then RW52/800/6/2160
Then 29305PY below

0190 may be the tail end of the part number. They don't always have a letter in the middle, but you're still a few digits short. It's possible the first part of the number was printed on the tag and the geniuses blasted it off. 23905PY is definitely the serial number.

If you can't see the rest of the part number get me the engine serial number. Delphi should be able to tell me what pump went on the engine.

 

[Red Rex]

Could be as half the tag is illegible, however, the 0190 is distinct and then some of the tag color is there. That dark stripe before the color starts appears to have nothing behind the 0190 stamp, which is quite visible. Below the 0190 in the stripe a 7 is stamped.
Engine number is 152UA98154D.
The number partially hidden by the pump is 37111500X

 

[Blue Ox]

Okay. I'll chase it tomorrow.

Maybe they didn't cause the issue, but a piece of masking tape over the pump tag will preserve it reasonably well, and make the job look a little more professional.

We always put new tags on rebuilds, but if you don't have access or the machine to stamp them, at least mask it so you save the data. This industry lives and dies by those numbers and the information they contain.

 

[Blue Ox]

Do you know the horsepower offhand? I may be able to look it up by application instead of chasing it thru the factory.

Disregard. See below.

 

[Blue Ox]

Never mind. Process of elimination, it's a 3230190. Here's the relevant service bulletin.

You must be registered for see images attach

The pump is probably going to have to go back to your rebuilder. Hopefully they have the tool.

 

[Red Rex]

Blue Ox, I have recorded the 3230190 for future reference.

Midnight Moon and Blue Ox, I know your time and expertise are valuable. Thank both of you for your generosity.

 

[Blue Ox]

Blue Ox, I have recorded the 3230190 for future reference.

Midnight Moon and Blue Ox, I know your time and expertise are valuable. Thank both of you for your generosity.

Hey, if it's not too late, or beyond your cinematography equipment maybe you could make a short video of what irregular exhaust beat looks and sounds like? It could be part of a video diagnostic series I'm compiling and pretending to be able to make soon.

Naturally that only applies if this actually solves the problem.

 

[80BrownK10]

The engine was running like a sewing machine prior to me pulling the injector pump due to leakage where the head goes into the body. Pump rebuilt. Tractor started the problem after the pump was reinstalled. Pulled injectors and had the pump shop rebuild them. Still no fix. Pulled tank no trash inside. Blew out lines. No obstructions. Tractor gets up to operating temp of 175 and does not over heat. I have run both a tiller and a bush hog so there has been a couple hours run time since doing these things.

How important is it that the vanes in the pump be the exact same material of the original ones? I do not believe that the replacement ones are.

If it ran that smooth I wouldn't worry about compression it's fine. Compression won't just go away over night corresponding with your injector and pump work. Well your compression could go related to the work if there not sealing well, but you can spray soap and see if they leak. It's related to the work you have done or the pump shop.

 

[Red Rex]

Hey, if it's not too late, or beyond your cinematography equipment maybe you could make a short video of what irregular exhaust beat looks and sounds like? It could be part of a video diagnostic series I'm compiling and pretending to be able to make soon.

Naturally that only applies if this actually solves the problem.

I have both voice memo recordings and video recordings but cannot get them posted on here when I select the attach files below it only allows pictures. I can e mail videos if you like