Help! Pinion Bearing question

[Don5]

There should be shims between the lower bearing and the pinion gear. You use those shims plus carrier shims to set the gear lash.

I made a setup bearing so I wouldn't have to take my actual bearing on/off like 30 times to set the lash. Worked great, but horribly tedious work

This is what I expect to see when I press that lower bearing off. What I did not expect to see was shims between that lower bearing race and the actual housing itself.

There was also shims on the upper bearing between it and the race on the actual pinion itself. I figured those would be there also. But what I don't understand is why there is no crush sleeve, unless it is between the lower bearing and the pinion gear?

I had planned on using the old bearing and making it a setup bearing also. IDK about this thing.

Thanks Flyboy for the info.

 

[Don5]

Here is a pic of the inner axle seal. Here is a pic of the carrier with the Spartan installed. Notice the bearing race laying on the table next to the carrier. The outside is burned a little from turning. I suspect that someone accidently installed the lower pinion bearing without using any shims. They used the shims at the bearing race to move the pinion gear to get within specs. I will find out when I pull the lower bearing tomorrow. I will be surprised if it has shims below it.

IDK why there was no crush sleeve. But I do know there were a lot of extra shims on the upper bearing. Anyhow here is some pics. I would have taken more but the camera died. BTW the pinion gear is a Dana Pinion.

 

[MannyDantyla]

No crush sleeve but a lot of extra shims? Sounds like it could possibly be the Crush Sleeve Eliminator Kit that Yukon makes.

I'm staying tuned into this project because I may have to do all this to my diff as well, so keep the updates coming

 

[Don5]

Ok so I have been doing some online research. I downloaded and printed Yukon Kit Installation Instructions. It appears, according to page 10, that there is a crush sleeve design and a preload shim design. It appears that I have the preload shim design instead of the crush sleeve design.

Ok so I don't have to worry about the crush sleeve but it also says it requires several attempts at setting up pinion bearing preload. I figured that anyways. Not that this makes it any easier but it does explain why there was no crush sleeve in it.

Btw- We have the lower pinion bearing pressed off of the shaft.

 

[flyboy1100]

I bet I had the carrier/pinion out 30times between the minute shim changes for the gear lash and the crush sleeve shims for the preload.


Tttteeeeedddddiiiiioooooouuuuuuussssssss... But worth IMHO to not have to worry about accidentally overtorquing the crush sleeve or if I have to change a pinion seal I do t have to worry I get the not back on in. Exactly the same spot.

 

[Don5]

Ok guys this whole job sucked. It was a battle from the beginning. I see why guys do not attempt this job. Anyways here is the latest. The ring and pinion is in!

Here are the specs:

The original carrier bearing shims on the driver side were .043. The passenger side shims were .050.

The new bearing shims on driver side are .028. The passenger side shims are .034. This is with new bearings on both sides.

The original upper pinion bearing preload shims were .049. The new bearing is using shims .054 to get a preload of 14 inch pounds with the seal installed.

The backlash is supposed to be from 6-10. Mine is 11. It is much better than what
it originally had. The carrier fell out when I took it out. Now it has to be pried in using a pry bar. So I am hoping the backlash will be fine.

The most important thing is the ring gear pattern. I used the prussion blue ink for my set up.It is showing a wear spot on the drive side from the middle to lower part of the tooth on the toe side. The wear spot is in the middle on the coast side. According to the pics in the Yukon Gear instructions this is a acceptable wear pattern.

The hardest part was setting pinion preload. I bet I torqued that pinion nut to 250 ft pounds at least 15 times tonight. I made a mistake and took shims out at first.Then added too many shims and we had to take some out. Yes it was pretty tiring.

I also put the red Loctite on the pinion shaft. I used a new pinion nut to get it right and then put a brand new nut on it during the final assembly.

I originally set the new carrier bearings up using the same diameter shims. when we went to install it, it would not fit. So I had to pull one new carrier bearing off using a puller. This bent the cage up a little so I had to buy a new carrier bearing to replace it. Then I honed the slightly messed up bearing out so it would slide on and off the carrier freely. The other side just slid off without any problem. I used both of these bearings as set up bearings.


I put the carrier back in without any shims. I slid the carrier to one side and measured the gap with a feeler gage. This gave me a good idea what size the shims needed to be.

I honed the old lower pinion race out to slide in and out of the housing by fingertip. This way I could add or take away shims as needed.

I installed the new upper race after we got close. I used the old bearing until then as well. Then I installed the new bearing.

I got the carrier shims right first. Then I got the pinion depth right. Then I got the pinion preload right.

 

[Don5]

OK here are some pics.

 

[MannyDantyla]

good work

 

[Don5]

Thanks everyone for the help and encouragement. The frontend is buttoned up. I just have to add gear lube and grease one side and we are done. I hope.