Help! Pinion Bearing question

[firebane]

I ordered a master install kit for a dana 44 from Summit. It has everything except a new ring and pinion gear. I talked to my neighbor about using his press. He said no problem so that is taken care of. I have a craftsman inch pound torque wrench that starts at 25 inch pounds. I have the dial indicator from HF. I am really dreading this job. It will be a good learning experience for my son and I though.

From the reading and videos I've watched its not that hard of a job to do. Its really more time consuming as when you do one thing it can affect a completely different thing.

So you keep taking it apart to make it work properly which is where the time comes in. Set yourself a good chunk of time and you'll probably find it doesn't go to bad.

 

[Don5]

From the reading and videos I've watched its not that hard of a job to do. Its really more time consuming as when you do one thing it can affect a completely different thing.

So you keep taking it apart to make it work properly which is where the time comes in. Set yourself a good chunk of time and you'll probably find it doesn't go to bad.

I agree. It will be like a jigsaw puzzle. When I take the pinion out I am going to measure the shims and start from there. Hopefully it will be close.

I am pretty sure that my carrier is ok but I am going to replace the bearings and put new shims in it. I will use new shims that are exactly the same thickness as the ones I removed.

I think the problem will be when I have to crush the crush sleeve. I read online that the torque is supposed to be 220 lbs. The preload is supposed to 25 inch lbs to turn the pinion gear though. Does that sound right?

 

[foamypirate]

I agree. It will be like a jigsaw puzzle. When I take the pinion out I am going to measure the shims and start from there. Hopefully it will be close.

I am pretty sure that my carrier is ok but I am going to replace the bearings and put new shims in it. I will use new shims that are exactly the same thickness as the ones I removed.

I think the problem will be when I have to crush the crush washer. I read online that the torque is supposed to be 220 lbs. The preload is supposed to 25 inch lbs to turn the pinion gear though. Does that sound right?

The torque value for the crush sleeve is really irrelevant. It takes a lot of force to get it started crushing, and this is where you see those values. Once it starts crushing, ignore the torque value on the pinion nut all together. You just want to tighten it a little at a time until you get your preload set (the torque it takes to turn the pinion).

 

[PrairieDrifter]

Yep there isn't really an exact torque spec it just takes a lot of force to crush the sleeve all that matters is the preload. If you don't get your shimming right the first time then you have to start over, this also affects the ring gear backlash between the pinion and ring gear

 

[gpmorgan]

If your just replacing the bearings, the old shims should do just fine. The first one I did I used a 3/4 drive pull handle and a hydraulic jack to start the sleeve to crush. The last one I did I used a 3/4 impact. As stated, once it starts to crush and there is no slack in the bearing, tighten it very little at a time to get the desired setting for the pinion bearing preload.

 

[Don5]

Well I got the kit from Summit today. I was reading online and several people say that you cannot use a click type torque wrench to set the preload. So I just bought a used Snap on beam torque wrench of fleabay. My neighbor told me that he did not have a bearing separator for his press either. So I am going to have to pick one up. More money...

 

[PrairieDrifter]

That's also correct for the torque wrench because you're measuring the rotational force the beam style will tell you how much force you're using while you have to set the torque on the click type.

 

[flyboy1100]

Well I got the kit from Summit today. I was reading online and several people say that you cannot use a click type torque wrench to set the preload. So I just bought a used Snap on beam torque wrench of fleabay. My neighbor told me that he did not have a bearing separator for his press either. So I am going to have to pick one up. More money...

Get a crush sleeve eliminator. Way better IMHO.

I used a park tool 1/4" beam torque wrench. Got 3k on my rebuild and so far so good

 

[foamypirate]

Get a crush sleeve eliminator. Way better IMHO.

I used a park tool 1/4" beam torque wrench. Got 3k on my rebuild and so far so good

Yep, that's a good option too! Just start with a larger shim pack and work down to a smaller one so you don't hurt the bearing when you torque it down and you happen to have too little clearance (too much preload).

 

[highdesertrange]

I am a little late here but I hope you mean you had play in the pinion before you started doing your seal, not after. once you break the nut loose you will have play. then when reinstalling you must get it back exactly where it was before. highdesertranger

 

[PrairieDrifter]

I am a little late here but I hope you mean you had play in the pinion before you started doing your seal, not after. once you break the nut loose you will have play. then when reinstalling you must get it back exactly where it was before. highdesertranger

I had to read it over a bunch, he said after he got the seal replaced it had play, so im not sure what he meant exactly

 

[highdesertrange]

yeah I didn't quite follow it either. if it had no pay when he started, and now it has play I think he didn't tighten the nut enough. it's real tricky when using a crush sleeve over, you got to get it just right. highdesertranger

 

[PrairieDrifter]

yeah I didn't quite follow it either. if it had no pay when he started, and now it has play I think he didn't tighten the nut enough. it's real tricky when using a crush sleeve over, you got to get it just right. highdesertranger

Yeah you have to get it tight enough but you cant crush the sleeve anymore than it already is, but maybe the seal was slopped out cuz the pinion bearing is done..

 

[Don5]

I had to read it over a bunch, he said after he got the seal replaced it had play, so im not sure what he meant exactly

Thanks for all the advice guys.

Here is what happened. I marked the housing and pinion nut with paint before removing the nut. While the nut was off, I noticed the pinion had some play in it. I thought that it was because the nut was off. I replaced the seal and tightened the nut back to the marks. The pinion was still loose. I tightened it a little further and it was still loose.

I am thinking that the bearing was worn which is why it started leaking. I never checked the pinion before taking the nut off. That was a mistake on my part. However I really never thought that it would be loose. This was an assumption on my part and we all know what that means. This is where the project stands as of now.

I just got my torque wrench though. I need to pick up a bearing separator now.

I am thinking about trying to tighten the pinion with the torque wrench just to see what the reading is when the pinion turns. I don't see how it could hurt. Maybe it just needs tightened. Yeah. Right. It can't be that easy.

 

[Don5]

^Did my last post clear some things up or are you guys as confused as I am now?